Sebring - Chrysler :: 2001 - Shakes And Jerks / CEL Came On?
Dec 15, 2012
My daughter's 2001 Chrysler Sebring began "shaking and jerking" last night. She described it as similar to when a person drives a standard transmission that doesn't know how to do so. (Her car is an automatic.) She had been driving it for about ten minutes without a problem and had luckily just turned onto a residential street to pick up a friend. She said the check engine light came on as well. She was able to limp it to her friend's and leave it parked there.
Recent work on the car includes the thermostat being replaced and a resistor related to the heater blower motor being replaced. What might be causing this. She's probably going to have to have it towed.
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So. My car shakes badly when I get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When I am above 35 if I am just coasting its fine it doesn't shake. The shaking feels like I am off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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Earlier today i noticed a loop hanging under my car. When i removed the item it turned out to be my AC/Alternator belt. Thinking it was bad i went ahead and got a new one. Prepared for a hard battle i find that the part slips on easily. now i can not get the belt tight at all it had about an inch or 2 of slack. I do not have a repair manual and i do not have the money for one. I can not find a diagram for my specific engine. It is a 2001 Chrysler Sebring with a Mitsubishi 3.0L 24 Valve Engine. What am I doing wrong? I need this fixed to go to work tomorrow.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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ASD Fuse keeps blowing. I unplug PCM and fuse no longer blows. I plugged in pin 41-80 and the the fuse is still ok. Car just quit running and starter will not turn. Does pin 1-40 control starter and fuel?? Could I have a bad PCM??
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I have the above mentioned 2005 Sebring Convertible (2.7L V6, Touring) and the AC will work occasionally, but when it is hot and humid, it is sure to blow hot. First up was to check the system pressure and top off if needed - not the problem. Also blew the bugs and junk from the radiator fins. The wires and electrical connections look good at a glance. Turning the car off and on again doesn't work. Why would the darn thing work part time and take days off when we need it most?
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Oil light comes on when I stop and goes off once I move again. Oil is full and just changed. What causes this & can I repair? I have a 01 Chy Sebring withh 100K miles on it. I bought new & have changed the oil every 3K miles since I have had it.
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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In May 2011, I got into the passenger side of my 2006 Sebring to find the foot area full of water, and it wouldn't stop pouring in. So I had work done on the AC unit to fix a broken plastic part on the firewall. I am a snowbird who travels to Florida every fall, and subsequent to that work being done, I have had to have a line (?) cleared because the water drips into the driver's side when I turn right. After clearing the line, it seems to be ok. This year, I had the line cleared and the problem persisted. My mechanic cannot figure out what's going on.
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Its a 1998 chrysler sebring jxi. 2.5 V6... It runs fine then randomly shuts off all electrical parts stay on i have to pull over or if it turns off at a red light let it sit for a while because i immediately get the "no bus" code. i have to let it sit with the car on but not trying to crank until the code goes away then it cranks again. sometimes i have to repeat that process a few times, sometimes just once. at times the code only last a couple minutes but sometimes over 10!
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I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
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My girlfriend's 2006 Chrysler Sebring is suffering from a horn that randomly honks. No action on the part of the driver is needed for the horn to blow, in fact it goes off by itself in the middle of the night sometimes, for minutes without end.
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I have difficulty filling my gas tank in my 1996 Sebring convertable. The pump keeps shutting off as if it is filled. Thought it was a venting problem but my mechanic couldn't find anything.
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