Scion - Xb :: Hydro Locked Due To Water Enter The Intake
Jul 1, 2006
Having a Scion xb engine problem. I took my scion to a scion dealer and the told me i blew my engine because it hydro locked due to water enter the intake through a custom installed intake. When I took the engine to another mechanic, three of them, They told me that there was no way that water caused my engine to seize up and blow a rod.
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So I have a 99 F-350 XL, 6.8 2WD, got 268K on it and it's been a great truck, hasn't ever given problem until last June it killed out a PCM, hydrolocked the engine and sent a connecting rod out the oil pan, so I swapped the engine and replaced the PCM and everything has been great, everything that it's equipped with works great, it's a base model truck, used to be a uHaul box truck, and we got it with 239K on the clock.
Well fast forward from last June to this month and it killed out another PCM, so I got one out the JY with the same numbers and all on it, and it ran twice and killed that one too, and it's got me at wits end, since there's literally nothing that blows fuses or DOESN'T work, everything is perfect but it won't stop it's PCM habit. It's only killing them when it's switched on, to narrow things down.
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
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When my 2001 Echo is in drive and I am stopped, the air filter box and that whole assembly as well as the intake hose shakes and vibrates and makes a noise. It doesn't happen in neutral or park or when I start driving. Also, when I was looking at this, I could see that when the car is put into or out of gear the engine moves slightly, is this normal?
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So I have a 2000 Echo with about 129k miles on it. I parked it in my driveway for the winter to drive my SUV in the snow (I live in Wisconsin).
After a couple months of the bite of the gas mileage difference I dug her out and noticed that the drivers side rear wheel was locked up. I presumed it was simply due to it sitting in snow for a long while. So I jacked up the rear, popped the tire off and WHAM, a rusted through pipe falls flat on the floor of my garage.
I trace it back to a port right behind the fuel intake - tho not the main intake line itself. I then find its other half, still connected via rubber tubing to a black hub of sorts.
Here are some pictures with a vision of what I am talking about:
The entire hose in two pieces:
The port where the hose was connected by the fuel intake:
The port on the hub where the rubber sided other half of the hose connects:
The hose pieces side by side on the trunk of the car for scale:
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So I dont have the money to but a new intake, I am having problems with water getting into my cold air intake under the car. What i could do or something cheap to buy to prevent this problem??
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I have a 337 with Injen cai. Well, I have since removed the cai due to the fact that rainwater/water during a car wash will run off the hood and onto the top of the inside of the drivers side fender (under hood) and eventually run down onto the filter itself, thus causing it to become water logged. This of course is not good. My question.. I've tried so many things to no avail.
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My truck over heated and I now have a looks like a pin hole leak next to the front injector on the left side looking at it. I have used sealers and it does not work. Water pools around the injector. Does this sound like a cracked intake housing? I have done many repairs but this is something I'm not sure I want to do. I can get a new intake setup for 160.00 on rock auto but ford would be in the 300 or more just for the part.
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I am still getting the CEL codes for the Secondary Intake Air Pump after I noticed the water in the passenger foot area. I clear the CEL but it comes back on again after a few days. I am now trying to trouble shoot the issue. When I start the engine cold I do NOT hear the blower come on the first minute the engine is on. That tells me the Secondary air intake pump is not turning on. Next I must check the relay or fuse tied to the pump. Which relay or fuse number it is and where it is located exactly?
If the fuse/relay is not the issue, how difficult it will be to change this pump and where it is located exactly?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with water dripping from under dash on passenger side when a/c is on. What it is and how to fix ?
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I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
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2004 echo, 109,000 km. P0301 came up and upon investigation I discovered that my no.1 spark plug well was filled with what I believe to be coolant. The top of the valve cover (where the coil packs are seated) was bone dry. The oil, from what I can see on the dip stick looks ok - I intend to replace to investigate further. Coolant is low. Spark plug wells for cylinders 2 - 4 are ok.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L... Here's the question, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat.
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So recently i blew a seal in my steering gear box. I replaced the unit with a reman and per napa put in power steering fluid. I am pretty sure i was supposed to use atf (my dumb fault for not researching that) so now my question is whats the correct way to flush the system? Also what fluid should go back in the system? This is a non hydro boost setup. Setup is a 2002 f350 v10.
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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My 01 450 V-10 dump truck had intermittent clutch petal problem. Petal would not return all the way. Had to pull it up then it worked ok for a while. Now it only works occasionally. Could it be the disk is collapsing or the master or slave? Any good how to video for replacement?
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I have a 2012 V with the HDD Navigation.
In Boston (and I presume in other large cities) there are roads that have the same house number across various zip codes. So, for example, 235 Washington Street can be found in 3 distinct zip codes in the same city (Boston). I would like to be able to put in the zip code for the address I want to go to. Right now it gives me my the completely useless latitude and longitude coordinates (with great precision, I might add!). My authorized Toyota dealer could not figure out how to change it to show the zip code associated with the address I just entered.
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My battery is flat and my manual key doesn't seem to let me enter the car via the driver door. I managed to open it in the morning but now it just wont open.
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My 2011 Prius does not have an MFD since mine is the standard model. I tried to find a way to monitor the 12V battery by searching the forum but could not find a way to enter maintenance mode without the MFD. How to put my Prius on maintenance mode?
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