Scion - Xa :: Driving Long Distance At Highway Speeds With 3200 RPM At 65 MPH
Mar 28, 2011
I just bought a 2005 Scion XA for commuting but am considering driving it from Maine to Maryland and am concerned about driving long distance at highway speeds with 3200 RPM at 65 MPH. Is this ok?
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I have a 99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 - Auto Trans. The car operates fine, however when driving long distances - say 150 - 200 miles if I stop and try to restart within 5 minutes it will not start. It will attempt a start but choke out - and sometimes not even that - it just has the low click of the starter. Temp. gauge registers normal - not sure if it's an overheating issue - but nothing indicates that. Car will eventually restart (or at least has to date) after a 15-20 minute rest period. I had some issues early last year - had the EGR valve replaced, thought that had solved it..
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I have a problem with my car I notice 2 time when I was driving from city to province about 270km distance and speed 102km/h my car was appear red check engine sign I don't know what is the problem. Last time it was disappear by its self after 2 days ...
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I have a 2000 X 7.3 diesel with under 100,000 miles. I drive it about 10,000 miles a year, all towing. However it does get used everyday driving a student to the bus, a distance of about 10 blocks. There is an engine block heater which I use all winter but the engine never warms up on the ten block run. I do service the engine twice a year, every six months. What damage am I doing and what can I do to prevent any damage?
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My 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
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I took control of a new GTI 2014 Wolfsburg last Thursday. I let my Jetta go early and was able to get into the GTI for a steal. Just got it tinted (photo above), already have a Unitronic intake on the way from CBTuning, I have KW V3's all set for installation, Stabila F+R swaybar in the garage, 034 endlinks in the garage, Whiteline W.A.L.K. kit in the garage, an SPM 3" 'track' downpipe currently on order, SPM trans and engine mounts on order, HPA puck in the garage, and am already working out plans for a custom cat-back exhaust. I will be going Stage II Unitronic for both engine and DSG and will be cleaning/tucking the bay a bit.
But first, a problem... On my first long distance drive to lower Delaware on Friday, I began hearing a 'hmm... hmm... hmm...' noise at 65+ MPH as I drove down 95. It go louder the faster I went, so I eased up figuring a tire or wheel was just screwy.
I brought it back to the dealership Friday afternoon and just had it returned today. All four tires had bald/flat spots and the front left had a nasty bubble, all of which they replaced at no cost, feeling that this was the issue and the solution.
However, I took it out tonight, about 2 hours ago, and the noise returned, the same hum at the same speed (65MPH) and up. I Google'd around and found some solutions that it could possibly just be a bad wheel bearing. The car is brand new and as of tonight, I only have 340~ miles on it. Also, the noise is not constant, but rather every other second, 'hmm.... hmm.... hmm....'.
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2009 Civic has an intermittent ac during long distance trips. About 1hour into a trip it feels warm I turn the blower up higher. I can turn it to the highest setting and it sounds like it's blowing at full blast but no air is coming out at all. I turn the ac off completely for 45 mins to an hour to "thaw" then it comes back on. Dealer had it 6 times now only once they were able to replicate the problem. The blower motor, expansion valve & termistor have been replaced.
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I had recently purchased a 2010 S used corolla , its a very good car but i'm facing a problem with my remote control , i have to get very close to the rear window so it responds, I had change the battery of the remote but problem still exists.
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My sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
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I just bought a 2011 accent 5 spd ... Quick question, when I drive it at highways speeds. (65mph) I notice that i am running around 3500 revs. Is that normal? It seems a little high to me. Every other 4 banger I had never ran that high in 5th gear at 65 mph.
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The wife and I own a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with 163k miles.
We just had our oil changed and we are currently running 5/30 and the oil light came on about a week after the change. I stopped the car immediately and checked the oil level and it was fine and oil was super clean. So I jumped back in the car and the light was off. Drove down the road about 2-3 miles and the light came back on and stayed on. Today it stayed off for a good 5-10 min while driving at highway speeds of 55-60 and then it popped on. The car runs great and it's not running hot that I know of and doesn't sputter or anything.
I was wondering if it was a bad Oil Pressure Switch? Where are they located at in the motor? I just put 1k into it with new new belts, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, wires and tires.
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I drive a 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT (6 speed Manual) and I have noticed that when im in 6th gear going highway speeds, I have an RPM of about 3K. For this model I feel this value is high and im worried about engine wear and fuel economy. I'm not sure about the other gears, but from my knowledge of other cars in the same weight category, less horsepower and 4-speed automatic gearbox, my car should not have such high RPM.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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Purchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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I have a lot of wind noise in my 2 front windows when driving highway speeds, no water leaks. I cannot find where it is coming from either, I assume it is either air rushing over the mirrors or thin glass. Sometimes it is worse than others, not sure if cross winds etc. Is that common in 2009 Sonata. My old 2003 Malibu, much quieter but mirrors were slightly more rounded if I remember.
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My tires are cupping on my Azera. I've had the tires rotated every 7500 miles as required by the maintenance schedule. The tires make a lot of noise while driving, especially at highway speeds.
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When I'm driving at highway speeds and hit the brakes hard-ish (e.g., if the car in front of me stops or if I suddenly realize I'm going too fast on an exit ramp), my 1997 Honda Accord feels like it's shimmying from side to side. It only happens for a moment, but in that moment I feel like I'm on the verge of losing control of the car.
I've only noticed this in the last few months. What this might be? I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow and would like to ask my mechanic to take a look at this, but I'd like to have some theories/guesses in my back pocket before I go in.
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2000 taurus se w/20K miles, transaxle warning light begins to flash while driving at highway speeds only (w/auto climate control on, I think -- at least the last 2 times it happened, shutting off AC or heater allowed me to drive on w/o the warning light coming on again).
I stop and restart the engine and the light is off. May come on again in a few miles or not for a long time. No noticeable shifting or driving/operational problems.
Does it in D1 and in D. I'll have to take it in to get checked but want to be knowledgeable in order to save a mega-buck diagnostic that fails to address/correct the problem.
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I have a 45 min drive to work every day, all highway. Lately on the way home in the afternoon I have been experiencing a surging noise that seems to just happen while I'm doing hwy speeds. It sounds to me like the fan is tuning on and off. Is that possible? It comes on for a few min. And then off again. I have new icp ipr cps. New oil and filter and fuel filter.
Also I'm still having a battery light on and off issue while I'm driving. Is possible the two issues are connected. I plane on doing extensive search for a bad wire this weekend. Batteries and alternator have checked out and are fairly new.
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