Scion - Tc :: RPM Revving Up / Down While Slowing Down
Oct 12, 2011
I have a 2006 Scion Tc, its a manual and 2.4L engine. It has about 75,000 miles on it and everything in it is stock. I have recently changed my ac compressor due to the old one went out. It was properly drained and recharged after I replaced it with a brand new one. It has been working great since, but I noticed in the past couple days that if im driving and I put the car in neutral while still moving (to save gas) my RPM's will shoot down (like normal) but then it will start bouncing up/down until I come to a complete stop. Once im a complete stop the RPM will stabilize again like if there was no problem. Take in mind that in im getting of the highway coming to a stop light I will put the car in neutral and begin to slowly brake, the clutch is not engaged nor im I stepping on the gas. Why would my RPM's go up and down. also the AC was not on and the RPM will not do this while driving.
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Yesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
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I have a 2004 Volvo v70 (not turbo) with 150,000 miles. After driving the car 5-10 miles, when I slow down to about 10 mph, the car jerks. Acceleration is fine with no apparent transmission slippage. I avoid the jerking by shifting the auto trans into neutral when slowing. It seems like it might be a mount somewhere. Dealer said that it is the beginning of the end of transmission.
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I am due for an inspection for a 2004 Camry (4 cyl.).
I had the engine light come on with a P2231 or P2238 code on my OBDII tool. Car was running fine, no weirdness whatsoever. But I went ahead and changed the front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1). As soon as I changed the code went away and it is not coming out anymore, nor are other codes.
However, the engine doesn't idle after 5 minutes running. I have to keep revving it up at the light to keep going. I shut it off and it turns on no problem. But then it doesn't idle. What a pain, I used the Bosch O2 sensor bought from AutoZone.
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Recently, when I start my Golf 2.5 DSG it has been revving a little loud or rough. It usually revs at under 1k at idle, but when starting up it revs at around 1500 until I put it in drive and release the footbrake.
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My Dad's R32 is revving at a higher rpm than it should at idle. It happens randomly for about a minute and then goes away only to return later. He took it to the stealership, but they will not facilitate because they could not replicate the problem. I'm thinking it is some kind of vacuum leak.
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I have had my R32 for about a year and a half, 31K miles. Recently, while sitting at a light with my foot on the brake, the car will begin to rev up to 2k on the tach and stay there unless i put it in neutral or foot off the brake.
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My car has been revving up to around 2-3k rpm upon startup... the mechanic says it's a faulty idle air control valve. He tried to clean it but to no avail--the car still revs up occasionally.
I can't find the IAC valce in the Hayne's Manual. Might it be called something else? The idle speed control actuator, perhaps? Is this is job for an industrious do-it-yourself?
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Automatic trans. When jumping off a stoplight or sign, I accelerate up to between 2-3,000 rpm and lift off gas. Tach stays there, say at 2,500, and slowly goes down to normal 14-1500rpm while coasting.
Also noticed deep growl when lightly pressing accelerator to keep up in traffic. Overall, in-city driving this automatic feels like a manual being driven constantly between lowest gears when my foot is not on gas. Sometimes I need to accelerate even going down a moderately steep hill. Does not happen on highways. And yes: I *am* in Drive - not shift-tronic.
Is this just how these Elantras drive/sound? Car has just over 38,000mi. 2015 Elantra SE 1.8L ...
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1.8T revving in idle and I can't figure out if it's injectors or fuel pump.
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I've been having an issue with my 20th lately and haven't been able to figure out what it is. The car has 55k on it and recently (within the last 500-1000 miles) I've noticed a grind/screech/clang almost metallic sound when I get the car above 3500 rpm. At first I though it might have been a drivetrain issue but when sitting in netural it also does it. The car is all stock except for a VF lower mount and R32 short shifter.
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I bought a set of stop tech rotors drilled and slotted. After having them on for about 5k miles I'm getting vibrations when I'm slowing down so I'm guessing they are warped already. Any better crossed drilled rotor for a decent price that won't end up like the stop tech rotors.
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i with 218,000 miles on it. When I am driving it and am slowing down and take it out of gear sometimes the car dips down to 400 or 500 rpm and the car shudders ,not all the time, but often and then bounces back up to 700 or so where the idle should be. I've had the throttle sensor and throttle body replaced. I also had the CATs replaced recently due to the sensor saying they were basically plugged, which I thought might be the problem with the throttle, but didn't cure it.
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My AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
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In stop and go traffic , it happened twice today, I slow down almost to a stop and accelerate, the RPM goes way above 5000, it seems it holds in gear 1 or 2 can't be sure and does not want to shift. I had to shift using paddle shifter. Is this a real problem or am I doing something wrong. ?
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I just got a used 2015 with only 1000 miles on it. Everything is great except I notice when going up and over the mountain highway I take everyday to work the car revs kind of loud and feels like there's not a lot of power. I don't know if this is normal or not, but it doesn't sound right to me.
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I was heading home last night from work and noticed something odd. It was the first pretty cold night that we have had around 20-25 deg. and I took off from the parking lot like normal.
When I got to the first stop light about a mile down the road I heard what sounded like the engine revving up right when I took my foot off the gas pedal. It did this as I coasted to the stop light. It also did it again at the next stop light just up the street. I thought maybe it was the heater blower, but It really sounded and felt like the engine revving. The car did not accelerate or anything, is this part of the warm up or normal? I also have the lower grill blocked but I don't see how that would make any difference.
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I've recently purchased a used 2008 Prius with 77000 miles. I was a bit apprehensive but have started to fall in love with this car. After running some errands yesterday, I heard a strange buzzz, coming from the middle of the engine compartment. When I'm in the car is sounds like it is front of me, but seems to be more in the middle when you pop the hood.
And when I'm accelerating, there is now a strong hum almost like a revving sound and it increases the faster I go. I am also getting the Maint Reqd light flashing as I turn on the car, but it goes away when the ICE kicks in, just started this in the past week. I have put about 500 miles on it since I bought it and I did buy an extended warranty.
I am getting between 41-44 mpg, depending on traffic conditions, around town, so the MPG, so far has not been effected.
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My 3 week old car just got louder yesterday. Today I noticed it more. Only 1.3k on it. Louder revving, esp. in 2nd, and louder just coasting too. Is everything all right? Before now it was quiet as a whisper.
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I recently bought a 2001 Golf 1.8t and everything was running smoothly until a few days ago.
I had to change the timing belt because I have 80,000 miles on my car, and the day I was going to my mechanic, I scanned the codes, and the p0301 and p0303 codes came up. The two codes are cylinder one misfire and the cylinder three misfire. So, I switched the two bad coils with the supposedly good coils to see if the codes changed, and when I scanned it again, the bank 2 lean 1 code came up. I had my mechanic look at the spark plugs and when we checked the plugs, there was oil ABOVE the plug, leading us to believe the misfire was from oil leaking in because of bad spark plug tube seals/valve cover gasket.
Regardless, I bought four new factory coils and four new factory spark plugs and factory valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I replaced them today and I was hoping, in a perfect world, my misfire would stop and my car would stop sputtering and revving and fluttering my RPM's. I was wrong. The only other thing under the hood that I can think would have anything to do with it is that the PCV hose is just about fully ripped, but I'm not sure If that would still make my car sputter and cause my car to misfire.
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