Scion - Tc :: 2012 - A/C Stopped Working - Radiator Fan Not Getting Power
Jun 18, 2016
So I have a scion tc 2012 and the A/C no longer works properly. The AC blows lukewarm air (seems to just blow whatever air is outside) when I press the AC button, it doesn't kick on the compressor. The heat works fine. I took it to a shop and they tested the pressure and said it was good. They can plug in a scan tool and make my car blow cold air but it won't work without the scantool, the scantool can kick on the compressor. They checked all fuses and relays. They tried replacing A/C amplifier and they tried replacing (A/C switch?). Now they want to charge my $350 to fix drier and evaporater. If that's not it they want to replace the compressor.
This is getting expensive fast, and they haven't even actually diagnosed the problem! Also the radiator fans don't seem to power on either.
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I have a problem with the air conditioning. It stops working when the car is in idle or driving below 40kl.
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I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
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A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
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The driver's side brake light on my 2012 Scion IQ is not working. The center and passenger side are working.
The bulb is good and the wires at the socket are connected.
A internet search show all the brake lights are protected by the same fuse.
I have not checked the socket with a volt meter yet because I need someone to press the brake pedal.
As a last resort, is it okay to run a jumper from the passenger side socket to the to other side to power the bulb.
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So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
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Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
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Have a 2012 Escape and the first level on my fan stopped working. All other speeds are good to go. Should I replace the blower resistor? If so, can you provide details on replacing?
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My SiriusXM trial ended yesterday. My Nav Traffic stopped working also. Got on the cell phone with SiriusXM to troubleshoot, no luck. Was told call back in 24 hours. Having problems with Nav Traffic?
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I have a 2012 basic PiP, purchased in June 2012. The air conditioner stopped working (no cooling) about a month ago.
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Read that this is a common issue, leaking out crimped seam on lower LH (2012 F250 King Ranch). I have called Ford customer service twice, they said "we do not have any recall or programs to cover the out of warranty repair". I keep adding coolant and thinking eventually Ford will address this problem. They did cover my bad EGT sensor....
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We just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
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My fuse controls cigarette lighter has apparently stopped working. I use it to charge my phone on trips. I had plugged in an inverter in an attempt to run a small fridge (for camping) and maybe that blew it out. The inverter didn't work but I could run it directly off the battery terminals. that was too much work and there were bears around anyway so I bagged the project.
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2012 f250, fog lights stopped working and tried fixing yesterday. I'm getting 12.8v at the plug but as soon as you plug the light in it goes to 0. Ran a new ground from frame and the hot from plug and still nothing. High beams off, truck running and switch pulled out. Bulb is fine, hooked it straight to battery and it comes on. I though it was a faulty ground but by running a separate ground and still nothing. I'm at a lose.
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Just had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
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I just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
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2012 F-350 King Ranch Diesel. I am eventually going to purchase a camping trailer to pull with this rig. I am thinking of bypassing the radiator with my transmission coolant lines. I did this on another vehicle and it worked GREAT! That vehicle was a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with that crummy 4L30-E transmission. My trans temps stay round 170 to 175 on the freeway which is far better than the 190 to 200 range that GM says they will run. At any rate, 2011-2017 F-250 to F-350 applications? I was thinking of adding a filter or two with a fan-cooler from B & M Racing Equipment.
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Recently my power windows stopped working...sort of. Here's what I mean: If the drivers door is closed none of the windows will go down. However, if I open the drivers door halfway or all the way I can roll up/down all the windows. If the windows are down and the drivers door is closed I can, almost always, roll up the drivers window, however the other windows in the truck will usually not roll up. Open the door halfway and up they go.
A couple of other things I have noticed. When I press the down button for the drivers door window, with the door closed, I can hear the relay, under the dash, kick on and the window will move about a millimeter down then stop. Additionally, the courtesy light on the drivers door comes on while the door is closed. I haven't checked if the other courtesy lights come on at the same time.
Hopefully my explanation is understandable. I would love to solve this issue. Getting tired of opening the door to roll down the windows. Plus when there's a fly in the truck and I'm driving I can't get it out.
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I just bought this BMW 1986 735i, and all four power windows stopped working after I drove over a speed bump. I thought maybe it is a fuse, but I do not have the fuse box diagram.
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Driving down the road and the AC stopped working. It was like a power failure to the whole Heater/AC system. Been in the Sub for several hours. Drove home at 95 degrees, Car sat for a few hours, then started it up and .5 miles down the road, the AC Stopped.
The other thing I noticed is that the Controls on the Steering wheel do not work either. Cruse, Radio control and the Lights to light them up. Did the Visual Fuse Check and they all seemed to be okay...
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Power mirrors on my 98 S10 stopped working. First it was the drivers side now passenger side. Fuse is good, what it could be?
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