Scion - Tc :: 2005 - CEL Light Came On For Code P0456 And High Engine Idle
Apr 10, 2016
Recently my 2005 scion tc CEL light came on and I diagnosed p0456. At the same time when I turn the car on in the morning it idles at 2k RPM for about 3 minutes and then the idle goes down to around 900. If I park and return to the car within 2 hours the idle stays down but if I wait it goes back to 2k and I have to wait a few minutes for it to come down. My question is whether this is related to p0456. What could be wrong and how do I fix it?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.
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I got gas last week and then my SES light came on. I took it to my local auto parts store and used the code reader. The code that it produced was P0456. The guys at the store wasn't useful because he said it could be as simple as my gas cap needs replacing or a much bigger problem. Should I take it to the dealer or is it something I can fix myself?
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Check engine and VSC lights came on wife's car, took to dealer, they hooked up computer and now stating that the Evap system has a leak. They want to replace the Charcoal Canister and they are quoting $900.00.
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At roughly 140,000 miles, my wife's '07 Santa Fe GLS has thrown a P0456 code. Does this code on a Santa Fe common?
It is "evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)." The good news, I guess, is that it is 'very small.' However, being small may make it more difficult to detect.
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I have a 2005 1.8 TJetta GLI owned for about 2 months now. Gas cap warning pops up then goes away when I turn off the car then check engine light comes on. I've change the gas cap to new oem one changed the purge valve [URL] .... After a couple of weeks same issues again brought it to my mechanic he ran a leak detector and told me that there are Evap leaks. I read somewhere that I might need a need charcoal canister and a fuel tank.
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My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
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My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
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For some time I have engine light on in dash. I bought OBD scan tool and I'm using OBD Auto Doctor.
I had this engine light on for some time. It come on and goes off comes on etc.
So this is the fault - P1272
I didn't find much info about this code. There are two reading about this code. Either it's something to do with fuel pump pressure or something to do with one of the cylinders.
Car Toyota Yaris 1,4D 2006
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So my car's emission systems light came on last Saturday and after work today I took it to the local Auto Zone to have an onboard diagnostic done to see what the code was, as some friends had recommended. I have a 2004 Ford Taurus with about 146,000 miles on it. It came back as only one code, P0456, which according to the clerk meant one of four things.
1.) Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap
2.) EVAP Canister Broke, hose cracked or not connected
3.) Purge or vent solenoid defective
4.) Vacuum leak at engine
I asked him if there was anyway to eliminate a few of these, but he wasn't sure and said I would have to take it to a dealer or a repair shop (which I expected). I was wondering any tips or tricks so I can eliminate a couple of these, and also if this is a five alarm fire I should be panicking about. I did call my Dad and he did not seem overly concerned about it. Plus my car is still running fine and the light has remained steady and not flashing. My friend at work suggested I put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it, but I want to be sure it passes inspection in September.
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First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
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Got my first truck with a 350 Vortec engine, 244K miles. I've got a SES light with code P1509,
"DTC P1509 Idle Speed High - Idle Air Control (IAC) System Not Responding"
That's the only code that's thrown. The engine idles around 1000 RPM and will sometimes surge while driving between 1200-2000 RPM. I googled this code but not much came up. I've seen that a multitude of things can cause high idle, but since I'm getting a code with the symptoms, is this a pretty clear cut case of needing to replace the IAC valve?
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I've got a P0456 code on my 02 LS v6. I came to a stop at a light, RPMs quickly dipped twice from 800 to 400(ish) then went right back to normal idle (800-1000) and the CEL lit up. It seems to be running fine other than the RPM drops after coming to a stop.
I checked the gas cap, everything seems OK there. Checked the hoses coming into/out of Evap valve (well, assuming this diagram actually points me to the evap valve: [URL] .... and there were no major/detectable cracks. Any other hoses/fittings that I should check?
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I got a 2001 Toyota Echo 1.5L that was running rough on cold start ups. Got a trouble code saying the ECT was out of range, replaced that and after firing it up it started to hunt and had a very high idle, I unplugged the Idle air control and it still continued to hunt. I smoke tested it for vacuum leaks and no leaks. After plugging and unplugging things to see what made it disappear it now stopped hunting but maintains a idle of around 2000rpm in park or neutral, in drive or reverse the idle lowers to about 900rpm.
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The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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I have a couple of questions about my trusty 2005 Scion xB. First, a little bit about my car and how I use it. I have a 2005 Scion xB which I bought used about 2 years ago and has not given me trouble except for the dreaded power coil on the NUMBER 2 PISTON that nice Leigh done suffered a while ago. I do part time driving for one of those online car services in Baltimore that the cabbies loathe and the potholes in that town are going to be death of my beautiful car.
I am fanatical about maintenance with my car keeping track of the needed changes with an app on my smartphone
Issue #1, I notice that at low speed on rough roads, there is a clacking noise coming from the forward right hand wheel. It seems to match the rotation of the wheel. It only happens when I drive on uneven (aka BALTIMORE) roads at low speeds. I want to nip it on the bud before it becomes a mechanic's boat payment!
Issue #2. I changed the power coil on the Number 2 Piston and it's running well, but as I'm driving much more than usual the car runs a little rough when I'm idling on drive, like on a street light or stop sign. Now this is not that big a problem, but as I'm doing this car service, I'd like a smoother idling for the benefit of my passengers.
I love my Scion and would love at least a year or two more on it as it is a good, fuel efficient, quirky car!
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
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Went to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
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