Scion :: ABS And Brake Sensor Lights (Any Way To Temporary Disable Or Unplug Fuse)
Apr 14, 2015
A while back I was jumping and older ladys' car. She happened to put the cables on wrong and it surged most of my dash lights on. Ive had everything checked out and its fine except i probably need the whole sensory module replaced so in the event there is something wrong I will be alerted, n the mean time i need my emissions so i can renew my tags and they will not test with the lights on. Is there any way to temporarily disable the lights? Or a place where I can unplug the fuse? I know this sounds sketch but I cant keep getting fined for tags while trying to save up to fix it so i can get tags, its a horrible cycle.
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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I check fuse box , it miss one fuse in fr fog fuse.
I try fix and check all fuse in fuse box. but I don't know how unplug 12v cable (I see 12v cable red cover ) .
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My brake pad sensor keeps returning false positives (ie, always telling me my front pads are low). I do all my own brake work and I know the pads are fine (I checked just to be sure).
Considering the car always goes in for scheduled maintenance and I usually eyeball them anyway, I'm comfortable not relying on the pad warning system and would like to disable it. Is it as simple as just disconnecting the sensors and tucking away the wires, or is there more to it than that?
I know the sensors work on the "completing the circuit" principle, but I'm not sure if just disconnecting them will report a different fault. There's not a specific fuse that controls the sensors, is there?
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I have a idle problem that happens on and off. with my 89 f250 351, it revs at 1900 rpm and when I unplug the vacuum hose to the map sensor it idles about 700 rpm. I've already replaced the map sensor and it does the same thing. i cant find any vacuum leaks anywhere and when i unplug the connector to the IAC nothing happens it continues to rev high.
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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I have a 2002 Jetta Wagon 1.8 t I got pulled over the other day for no brake lights, and I figured it was just a fuse, but I had a look and it isn't that. the middle light thing in the top of the window comes on, so I know the switch works. (is is mechanical on the pedal, or hydraulic pressure?) Both taillights come on, but neither brake light. What's going on here?
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First of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
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1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The brake light wouldn't illuminate. Found that the brake light fuse (20A) was blown. Put another in and it blew as I was inserting it. Figure there's a short somewhere, so I've disconnected both brake/tail light units in the back, the towing light connection, and have even completely disconnect the 3 brake light switches under the dash (yes, 3.... 2 directly attached to the brake pedal and one attached to the e-brake). Still, when I insert a 20A fuse (which is what is called for), it immediately blows.
Since I've disconnected the brake light switches, it seems to me the short can't be past that on the way to the back of the vehicle. Maybe I'm wrong though. It seems the short must be either between the switches and the fuse box, or somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. Unsure if the wiring routes through any relays under the hood, but I'd think it would at least have to go through one of the relay boxes since that's what eventually gets directly connected to the battery. I've tried using my multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance on either side of the space where that fuse goes, but I'm unsure what to expect from a reading like that, so those results are inconclusive.
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I have a 2003 Accent and I'm having a problem with the brake lights not working. The tail lamps work when the night lights are turned on so it's not a bulb issue. The brake lights keep blowing the fuse. Brake lights will only work with a fresh, new fuse but only works for about a trip, give or take and then its blown.
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I just got a '91 Explorer. It has no brake lights at all. I've checked all the fuses and everything's fine there.
What's the next thing to look at? I can't say I've seen this problem before.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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Every time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
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How to disable the Daytime Running Lights? I checked the manual and the fuses labeled are specifically for the front right and front left headlights. Is there a way to disable aside from pulling a fuse?
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I have a 1995 Ford f250 Powerstroke and i do not have turn signals, rear running lights, brake lights or reverse lights. i checked the fuses and they seem to be good but i dont want to tear everything out to check the harness if it could be a bad ground. any insight?
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01 Echo, there are two backlights (L & R) for the instrument panel, one of which isn't working even with a good bulb so I figured it might be a fuse. Which fuse would control the left side backlight?
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I put in an aftermarket stereo. It has been a while since I have done that and somewhere along the wiring process I made a mistake and blew a fuse. I knew the lights around my speedometer weren't working but what I didn't realize is that my running brake lights weren't working, it took me about two days to realize this.
I fixed my wiring mistake and started looking for the blown fuse. I found one (I believe #19 inside the vehicle) and replaced it. This fixed my running brake lights and half of my instrument cluster. The lighting on the right side of my speedometer seems to work but to the left of it seems to be no light.
Also, I have an automatic car starter and before I jacked things up when I use to start it and the blinker lights use to come on and let me know that my car was running. I have checked the majority of the fuses(I believe all of them) and it doesn't seem that I have anymore blown fuses.
[URL].............
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Is it possible to disable the TPS using vag com?
I am using the car for the track and don't want to have sensors on several sets of wheels.
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Is there any way to disable rear park sensor? I don't like the sound, but I want to disable it, also allowing to enable it again if needed....
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