My new XE Vue 4cyl 164hp engine seems to struggle in highway situations. The 4 speed engine seem late in shifting from 4th gear to 3rd when asking for more speed as in a passing situation.
View 6 RepliesI just did my plugs in my 04 F150 5.4 The truck had a really bad miss, and I figured it was time for plugs. I broke all eight plugs which I expected as the plugs were in there since new and had 120 000 miles on them. Replaced with champion double platinum and I am not certain that was the best idea.
The truck is much better with the new plugs but still has a miss and a rough vibration. The truck seems to shake side to side at idle but smooths out during normal driving conditions. I have noticed that it seems to lack power intermittently if that makes any sense. Also, the check engine light was on for a while but I tracked that down to a broken wire in the evap system.
So I am thinking first step is to verify that the coils and boots were installed correctly. I have to see if we have the scope module for the Genisys at work. I am going to check for vacuum leaks as well. I just changed the fuel filter and no change. Is there anything else I should look at? Would cam phasers cause a rough idle and intermittent loss of power?
I don't drive this truck every day so I can take it apart to diagnose it further...
My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
I have a 2008 Saturn Aura. Last spring I had an incident where I was driving on a highway (60mph or >) and the car started to decelerate and the gas pedal didn't respond. I pulled off the road, and the car wouldn't start, but the radio worked. By the time AAA came, the car started and I didn't have another problem for 10 months. I did take it to the dealer after the first episode, and they couldn't find anything. Recently I had 2 similar episodes on the same day, one hour apart. I was again driving on a highway. After 5-10 mins, the car was able to be started again. I feel like it's a waste of money to take the car in to the dealer again, since they didn't find anything the first time. What might cause this to happen?
View 10 RepliesMy 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid died on Sunday while driving down the highway. The car has 101,500 miles and a brand new (November) battery. It was -5 degrees out at the time. Different engine lights started coming on, one at a time (the check engine light, the traction control light, the oil change light, then the seatbelt light) and then all of a sudden the entire dashboard went dark and the driving lights went out (it was close to sunset so we had the lights on). My fiance barely managed to steer the car over to the shoulder before it completely died. The hazard lights wouldn't even worked. My mechanic got it jump started yesterday and was able to drive it and said no engine lights are on, and everything looks fine. He does not think it was the alternator. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesI been having occasional problems starting my 1988 honda accord. It also sometimes dies when im stopped for too long. The problem has gotten worse more recently. The engine will rev and struggle to start. After it dies out i often have to let it sit a while before im able to start it. As i am trying to start it im smelling gasoline.
I thought for sure it was the fuel pump so i had it replaced and is still giving me problems. Today i had to give up and come back to it later. It is fuel injected... What the problem might be?
I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
2002 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD automatic
She was on the highway this afternoon and was accelerating to merge in with traffic. Apparently the car just reved up without actually accelerating. She said it felt like she was in neutral. I've driven the car a few times over the last week and it has been running perfectly - No hesitation anywhere at any speed. There are no CELs (yet). It is probably worth mentioning that it has been raining HEAVILY here for the last 24-hours and I would not be the least bit surprised if she hit a few puddles on the way. I can just about guarantee the CPS has never been changed and am suspecting it may be a short in causing her problem.
I have a 2001 2.7 v6 automatic it has started to struggle up hill to change gear.... and has no power ... it Rev's over 4000 before it changes out of second but fine sometimes after that .. i have had a terra clean done and no fault show on any diagnostic thing.
View 3 RepliesMy wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
I drive an 08 f-350 with 120k no tune or deletes..(yet). I was driving home yesterday when I all of a sudden I have a lack and power. I then notice i have no boost at all. I heard an exhaust leak and instantly checked my boots on inter-cooler pipes....
After farther inspection, the bolt fairy came and I am missing some bolts on my up pipe where it meets turbo. Is this break in vacuum system the reason I'm having no boost? What is easiest way to get to up pipes without removing cab? Where did the bolts go? I got to get this fixed because I need truck to get around town.
A couple of weeks ago, I went out in the evening after work, started my car and the CEL came on. It was fairly cold, probably 20 F. The car idled fine, but lacked power under acceleration. After the engine warmed up, it ran fine. The light stayed on for about a week, with the same symptoms. This week, we got a warm spell, 50s and 60s, and the light has gone out. This would seem to imply some malfunction of a temperature sensor, presumably coolant. It seems that when the engine is extremely cold, it is not adjusting the mixture appropriately, after it warms up, it is fine, or at least acceptable. I have an appointment to bring it in to the dealer. I assume they will be able to retrieve the code even if the light is not currently on.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 F650 7 speed with 7.3l powerstroke and I am pulling a 15,000 pound fifth wheel. It is very new to me and just doesn't seem to have the pulling power. It seems to struggle even on flat going 65mph and when it comes to hills it really slows down. Should I be looking into power chips? If so, which one? Is there something else that may be preventing the full power?
View 8 RepliesSanta Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
View 9 RepliesHere's the thing my Saturn is from 1997 and every time I get on the high way it and go over 4500 rpm it popes a fuse this results in the motor stopping steering wheel locking up and making our very dangerous to pull on the side of the on ramp to replace the fuse. How to fix this other than replacing the same 10 amp fuse over and over
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2004 Saturn Vue that has been in the shop FOUR times for a loss of power issue. The check engine light will come on and almost simultaneously the loss of power light will come on and the car will pretty much come to a stop. So far they have replaced the computer, gas pedal, wiring to the computer, cat converter...it is still doing it!
View 30 RepliesWhile pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
View 11 Replies2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
View 1 RepliesMy issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.