Saturn - Vue :: Cracked Block On EcoTech I4 Engine - Coolant Leak Developed
Mar 21, 2015
My 2009 Vue developed a coolant leak into the oil at 130k km. I had to have replaced. GM has a technical note about this exact problem with the recommended fix: Engine Replacement. The coolant was leaking into the oil at the water pump.
The Statement from the dealership states that there was a crack in the block near the water pump. The dealership was good but a block should not break like this. Is this a design defect with the block, and if so is their a class action already started?
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Just did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
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We have a 2006 Civic and there appears to be a coolant leak coming from the engine block above the started motor, so it is hard to see clearly. The kids are about to leave for Atlanta (from Iowa) and I am concerned that this could be a crack in the block based on some on-line discussion. Is it risky to send the kids on a 1000 mile trip without fixing?
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I have an 04 ford explorer, with severe coolant leakage. I am far from an expert but it seems like it's coming from the center engine block, but I can't get much access in to tell. What's going on?
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Should the engine block of an 2005 Acura RL crack if the car's maintenance has been regular and complete according to all dealer specified recommendations? Cooling system never stopped working either. What else could cause the engine block to crack?
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So my father's 4.2L 2005 T-reg V8 was losing coolant like crazy. All of the sudden all the temp gauges went nuts. We had it towed. VW filled it back up. MY dad refused to drive home in it and had the service manager take it home for the night. It had to be towed back to the dealership.
Long-story-short, the engine block was cracked. My dad has never off-roaded the vehicle, much less even driven it hard. VW didn't know what to do either. LUCK, he has ~59,000 miles on it, so he's just under the 60k drivetrain warranty. VW first waffled, then agreed to fix it under warranty. Then they told my dad that it would be 4 - 8 weeks to fix it. THen they refused him a loaner car.
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I went on vacation, my 2.0T B6 developed a coolant leak at 35k miles. It's still in the shop but the problem has been identified as a leaky o-ring located toward the rear of the engine at the block. The SA told me that they've see quite a few of these in both Audi and VW products using the 2.0T.
I'm also getting a reflash for one of the recalls. I think it's the 03 recall but I'm not sure until I get the paperwork. So off I go in my loaner PT cruiser until I get the B6 back today....
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I did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.
There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.
I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.
I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.
Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?
My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.
I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.
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I replaced my Radiator, Upper and Lower Hoses, Thermostat and the thermostat gasket yesterday. I am leaking coolant from the thermostat though, It's coming from the seal between the housing and the block. The gasket was brand new and seemed to fit fine. I don't see any damage around where the seal is made..
Going to run and get a new gasket when the store opens.
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So broke down today and have no tools, in a city I don't live in. Huge coolant leak behind the block on the passenger side. Luckily we broke down right at a mechanics shop. They need to take off the manifold to get to the rusted out metal piping in back.
I am new to the V10. Looking for information on what could be leaking back there? I know I could do this myself but I need to know what parts I might be dealing with first. And its tight quarters back there.
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Seen a coolant leak near the back of the block? I did an oil change and noticed coolant on the bell housing.
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Is this common? No coolant in the oil-YET........
Any way to fix it without pulling the cover?
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We have a 97 Saturn SL2. The belt tensioner assembly cracked and after the guy replaced it, immediately upon driving, the low coolant light starts flashing.
Drove it this way a few times while keeping an eye on coolant level. Parked car for a few days, then notice a big puddle of green coolant under car. It has been sitting now for several weeks.
Could increased tension from the new tensioner pulley cause the water pump to die?
The car has never overheated, though. If water pump was toast wouldn't it overheat?
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Where is the coolant drain plug on the engine block? Have the haynes book and still can't figure it out.
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I recently bought a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) . The car has been in a front end accident but it has been fixed. When buying the car, i did not notice that the coolant in it was green.
I know that prii of this year run on Toyota pink, and I have also read that mixing coolant can lead to sludging and clog your system. So now I am trying to do a total flush and refill. I already have the pink coolant and I was able to drain about 5 qt (7.3 qt total capacity) from the radiator cock. I know about the existence of an engine block cock which would allow me to drain the rest of the coolant. But no matter how much I look I can not locate it.
I have read the repair manual, I know that is is supposed to be in the back of the engine half way up the block or so. But I just cant find it. I can't fill my car until I can do a proper flush.
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I have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
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Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
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I bought a 01.5 Passat a few months ago and it had developed an exhaust leak. So when I went to check under the car I found it was missing the catalytic converter.
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I have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
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I have an 07 with a 4r75e transmission that has developed a leak. The truck has 60,000 miles on it. I looked under the truck and it is not leaking from the pan. I plan to put on stands and get under it tomorrow to see if I can find the leak. Where I might check for the leak?
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I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
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