Saturn - Vue :: BCM Cannot Communicate With ECM
Jul 1, 2015
I have a 2003 Saturn Vue that will start and run then die after 2 seconds or so. I thought we needed to reset the security, but the Security light never comes on. I get both the service and the service with a wrench. I put it on a computer and we get the U2107 code. Can a weak battery be the culprit? I cleared the code and it started then as soon as I turn it off, the code is back and it starts then dies. I'm told that it needs a BCM, but the code indicates that the BCM cannot communicate with the ECM.
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I went to a local toyota today to have the brake fluid changed and their scantool couldn't communicate with the car.
Now, I wanted to ask a few questions.
1) Is there a separate communication ecu that handles the diagnostics port?
2) Is there a fuse that could have been broken?
To give a few more details, the car is a 2004 gen II prius. It has an lpg system installed. The lpg ecu reads the fuel trims through the diagnostics port all the time.
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I am having trouble with my 2000 Excursion 7.3. It died on my wife this morning, but it started right back up and made it home(4 miles). Figured it was the CPS but when i went to hook up the code reader, it just kept saying that i needed to connect it to the vehicle first. I verified that the reader was working on both my other vehicles. Then had to go to work. I wondering if my ECM is going bad?
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I have a 2002 VW Passat that I cannot communicate with the ECU. I have the latest version of the Vagcom software downloaded. It has the factory radio installed and still will not communicate. The car runs, but runs rough. Anything else to check?
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I recently put my stock 18's with TPMS. After 200 miles the car is still refusing to communicate with the TPMS, I still got the low pressure light and all 4 sides show no data. I tried resetting sensors by holding the TPMS button, but nothing is happening. Not sure what happened ?
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What is involved in fixing TCM system and ECM (I could not start my '04 Phaeton, had it towed twice, only to find I needed a switch, frame, and a mechanism [shifter]).
Now I notice the center vent door that goes over the clock has two cracks in it and I also noticed some other scratches on the so-called wood area on the console. What is a TCM, and an ECM, and what would have to be removed to replace brake switch, PRNDL sensor, and shifter mechanism? Before work was done, service writer said the steering column and the center console would have to be removed. I know when I go back to the dealer Monday (2.8.10) there will probably be denial, so I would just like to know in advance what had to be removed.
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Having fitted a 9W7 - 7P6 035 730 C bluetooth module to my 2009 Passat recently, to replaced the old basic nokia universal car kit system. Everything works except I can't operate/control any of the phone menu which display on my white MFD screen, the "phone" button, "OK" button, "arrow up" button, and the "arrow down" does not want to communicate with the bluetooth module. I have a 8 buttons multi function steering wheel. all function in rns510 are working(address book,call history,etc...)
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2007 Ford explorer 4x4 V8, U0101 Failure to communicate with the TCM
Vehicle shifts very hard when under load then and when the Traction control light and the "wrench" light come on it seems to be stuck in high gear, if I stop it takes off like in high gear and never shifts, when I do an ignition cycle then the lights go off and it takes off in first gear and shifts as normal unless it's under load it will bang in and out of gear. Where is the TCM located? On a side note I do hear air like vacuum behind the center console when I press the pedal. Not sure if it has always done this or not.
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So, the very first time it happened was the weekend after I installed my new motor mounts I am not sure if it is a coincidence or if there was something that I touched while installing that is causing the car to act this way. So I notice that it's more common on the wet days even though I have started to doubt this recently as well. The instrument cluster illuminates CEL and EPC for a brief second and the car feels like it looses all power and sometimes even stalls when at idle but then after that goes away it runs like a champ. Also ever since this started happening the car is really hard to start after it sits off for few minutes when at normal running temperature. Right, when it happened I tried to scan it and I thought it was the scanner that was not able to communicate with it but that wasn't it since I have tried over 10 different kinds now( that includes the ones that have scanned my car with no problem before). I did have the CEL to stay on once but I still couldn't scan it and it went away by itself or I have reset it by disconnecting the battery. Its really driving me crazy and I am stuck but not giving up on this car, I love it too much and it's been very faithful to me so far! I mean there was literally two days recently when the weather was dry when I drove the thing without the random occurrence of EPC and CEL but it still didn't want to start when warm. In fact, one time after work after it has been sunny all day it didn't want to start when the engine was still cold as well.
The things I have replaced or tried so far that have not repaired it are:
*New Camshaft Sensor
*New Crankshaft Position Sensor
*New Purge Valve
*New Coil Pack
*Took off and cleaned my Throttle Body
*Checked with and OHM meter as many grounds as i could find between battery and they all checked good(the main engine ground looks good)
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*New Coolant Temperature Sensor
*Checked that all fuses were good and seated
*Verified that the k-line is good.
*Able to scan the ABS module and radio through vag com so i know its something with the ECU communication
That's all that I can remember as of now. the car went through many stages but here is how it looks as of now.
[URL]
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Compressor won't engage and cool. Mechanic checked system and said ac control head is bad and it cost like 800.00. But when I go and search the part they are like 150-200... Did I miss understand what part is called. He said he checked the compressor with a scanner and the compressor will not communicate with the head... said he thinks compressor shorted out the head. He also jumped the compressor but it still would not work.. Any clue what part I should look for?
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Truck had a rich on bank 2 code about a month ago, I cleared it and the service engine light stayed off for quite some time.
Last friday on the way home from work the truck started shaking badly right from idle, and at one point on the freeway the service engine started flashing. I couldn't pull over as I was on a bridge but once I dropped my speed the light stayed on but the flashing stopped.
I went to plug the truck in today and first shot it didn't communicate with the code reader at all, I talked to someone who told me that the cigerette lighter fuse is also the OBD port fuse, I pulled a fuse from somewhere else and plugged the reader in again. This time it started communicating with the truck but didn't display any codes while all the while the truck is miss firing and the service engine light is lit up on the dash.
One other weird thing: The fuse had an LED indicator to show that it is blown, when I push the cig lighter in the led gets a hell of a lot brighter, if there is always power drawn through the circuit shouldn't the LED be constantly bright all the time? I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere. Where to look next??
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I am trying to run some diagnostics and get codes for my truck. Problem is the scanner won't communicate with the trucks computer. It's the usb elm 327connector and Iam using the forscan program.
Changed to ciggar lighter fuse. still not working. I think the previous owner had a edge program in it idk if that might of fried the pcm or is causing it not to read right? Do I need a better connector or are the pins inside the trucks communicater bad ?
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Title says it, I just installed my Hydra Chip, now my edge says it cant communicate with PCM. I have checked all the connections on the edge, all is good. I planned on just using the Edge only for gauges. Will it not work anymore now that I have a Hydra? If not I will just sell it and buy an Edge Insight, so long as that will work.
I think its the Edge EVO 2, its this one.
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I have a 2003 Saturn Vue, 4 cylinder, manual transmission. For the last two years when ever I fill up with gasoline (doesn't matter if I get a gallon or 10 gallons), when I start the car after getting the gas it immediately stalls. When I attempt to restart it, it takes about 10 seconds before it will catch and start. It does not stall or not start at any other time. I have taken it in to be checked, the computer shows them a few code errors but they can not find the problem to match it.
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I have a 2001 saturn l200 2.2 about 150000 miles. Last night I came to a stop at stop light, then my car tried to die. So then I came to stop again, then it tried to die again. It drives fine, but it shifts hard sometimes, and sometimes it doesn't shift hard...
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My Saturn Aura XR shakes when i get up to about 60 - 65 mph. even worse when i go faster. any suggestions on what to do. i am going to get the alingment checked. but i think it is something else.
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I'm shopping for an older used VUE. I have a 2005 with the V-6 and five speed auto. I need to know how to identify a VTi. Did all the fours come with them through 2005? Last dealer I talked to said he couldn't find a transmission dipstick and this would tell me it was a VTi. Is there a database on GM or anywhere fr cars that had transmissions swapped out that I can search by VIN?
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99 Saturn SL2 will turn over but not crank. No fire to the plugs,,,,,,,change out the crankshaft positioning sensor, removed and cleaned ignitions module and coil pack, still wont crank and still no fire to the plugs.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion with about 189,000 miles. Recently the car has been running very hot when AC is on and the car is idling or in traffic. When I stop for about 30 seconds ill hear something click on, the AC will start to blow warm air, the engine will heat up and the car has a tendency to jump forward. When I start driving again the AC will cool off but the engine takes a while to cool back down. When it jumps forward, the RPM's shoot up and it jumps forward about a foot. I recently had it inspected and looked at by a mechanic, but this was over the winter when there was no need to use the AC.
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My wife drives a 2000 Saturn sw2 with 175K. I am out of town currently. Last night she called me and said that the car was cutting out on the interstate. The problem only occurred at almost 3000 rpm while the car was at speeds above 70 mph. Below that it was fine. Then today she called now she said that she could barely get it to 55mph. I am returning home tomorrow and am going to try to fix this in 5 hours before she needs it again. I am going to test drive it first to see if the above statements are correct. If so I am thinking it could be a failing fuel pump. I am not sure it autozone rents a tool that can measure the pressure on the fuel rail. I am thinking that this is a fuel rather than an ignition problem. Any quick diagnosis processes that could narrow down this problem quickly?
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I'm having an intermittent and strange issue with my car.
A couple weeks ago, I started my car (started on first crank, as it pretty much always has) and drove to work. When I arrived at work, I got out, and found that I was a little bit too far from the curb for my taste. When I got back in the car to restart it to fix my bad parking, it wouldn't start. There was no crank, no click, no nothing. Odd. It had literally been off for 30 seconds. I went into work and came out a few hours later and tried again. Same thing. No crank. No click. But, all of the electronics - radio, blower, wipers - worked fine. Two hours later (five hours after arrival) I tried again, armed with a multi-meter. Nothing. The battery measured fine, 12.5v no load, 11.5 under load (blower running, radio on.) So, I called for a tow. I went out to meet the truck, this was now about 6.5 hours after driving to work, and thought I'd give it one last try. It started right up! It did so 5 or 6 times in a row. I sent the tow truck away and went back to work. When I left work an hour and a half later, the car started fine, and I got home. When I parked the car at home and turned it off and tried to restart - no crank, no click. Weird.
The next morning, I got up, the car started right up, and I took it to my mechanic. Of course, when I got there, I couldn't get the problem of the previous day to manifest, but I left it anyway. They had the car for two days, and couldn't get the same results either. They even let if warm up for 25 minutes at one or two points to see if a warm engine was the issue. Nothing. So, they sent me away not knowing what the issue was. The owner suspects it's the starter failing, but doesn't feel he can sell me on it since he can't say for sure.
Over the last couple of weeks. I've been driving it much less, and mostly only when I'd go from home to work where the car would sit for 8+ hours before restarting. I've not had any issues.
Until today. I got gas, stopped at the auto parts store to pick up some coolant (and checked for error codes with their computer - no codes came up), and a store. When I left the store, I had the same issue. No crank, no click. Just as I was resolved to walk the rest of the way to work, I decided to try it one last time. It started right up. So, this time, it was only down for 5 minutes or so, but it seemed to be the same issue arising again.
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