Saturn - Vue :: AC Cooling Performance Appear To Get Reduced When Vehicle Parked
Mar 27, 2015
I have a 2004 Saturn VUE, 3.5 L, V6 (212 CI), AWD, with 164,000 miles that I purchased used in Michigan from a GM Dealer about a year back.
The air condition on this VUE works great as long as the vehicle is moving on the road. When in idle and parked, the cooling performance appear to get reduced and soon it will blow not so cold air until the vehicle start to move and gradually the performance will get better and perform well. How did you get it resolved?
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2004 S60 Suddenly lost a lot of power while driving (non-highway) and the Reduced Engine Performance" warning appeared. Depressing the gas pedal gave it only minimal power and the engine would not shift. Even in park, depressing the gas pedal would not rev the engine. Turning the car off and on produced the same warning message.
After overnight inactivity, the car started fine, but the Engine Service Required warning light was on. The car was towed and inspected at a Volvo service facility.
The reduction in engine performance could not be duplicated. A computer upgrade was performed and the Service Engine light cleared. They could not find anything else and said if it happened again to bring it in.
I believe this is a safety issue, since losing power mid road can be dangerous on the highway.
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While my wife was re-parking my 2007 S60 this morning (currently at 73,143 miles), the error message "Reduced engine performance" came up.
She had switched-off the engine before calling me on the phone to report it, else i would have told her to rev the engine to see how far the rpm gauge could go.
While checking through the error on google, noticed there were several complaints on this in the past but could not see any inferences on what was done to resolve this except for guys who mentioned repeated visit to dealership.
When she switched-on the engine again, the error message didn't come up and she could rev the engine up to 6500rpm, i intend using the car for a long journey next week and do not want any breakdowns.
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I have 2 70's trucks, one with a 360 and one with a 390. Which I don't think makes any difference. The problem is, I experienced poor operation in that after driving for a while engine showed symptoms of reduced performance and stalling and shortly stalling all together. It would not restart even after changing fuel filters and checking pressure. It has a two barrel holley. I took the top off the carb to check for debris in the jets. What I found was a clear jelly like substance. I pulled it out and set it in the open air. After a few minutes it evaporated. I concluded it was something like alcohol created by the vacuum in the carb. After that the truck ran fine until it happened again a few days later. Always after sitting it would restart. When it did not I found the substance in the carb. Now I have the same problem with the other truck. It sounds like a few of the cylinders are starving for fuel and the carb is all but new with twin fuel filters. Ignition is fine on both trucks after hooking up the scope. What is this crap and how to get rid of it?
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I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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So i got a cooling system performance light and haven't had time to change the sensor out along with the housing... But
Last night i was stopped to see if it was still there after a little driving and it was indeed. So i figured i would try and clear the code to see if that work and it did. I cleared the code and almost instantly with the car still idling, the ticking sound went away.
What could have cause the ticking sounds at all in relation to the cooling system?
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Have an '07 2.0T w/92K on it. Check eng light came on over the weekend. Performance is fine etc. Went to AutoZone just to find the general area of the the trouble code since there's no one with a VAG Com nearby. The code is as the title indicates. For the last 5 months the temp gauge has been moving 1-2 ticks to the left (cooler) of the normal 200 degrees, then it will go back to 200 etc. It previously has always stayed on 200 once it warmed up. Does this sound like a thermostat?
If it is, I'm wondering if I could save some money while they were in there to go ahead and change the TB as well? From what I've researched the thermostat is in same area. I was planning on doing the TB at around 100-110k so while it would be earlier than planned I'd do it if it meant saving a bit from the combo work.
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This code came up on my car, what it means or what part needs to be replaced.
008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84971 km
[Code] .....
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Last night on my way to go get hammered the check engine light popped on...
"Cooling System Performance"
I have read a few different post, and the last one I read referred to his radiator fans. I know for a fact one of them isn't working and I haven't replaced it yet because it hasn't advisable effected my driving.
So my question is what could be causing this? Also I'm not sure if this matters but my a/c doesn't work either.
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The code in question is:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
It's a fun catch-all code that can be thrown from any of those. Given that our cars are approaching the 6 year mark, the coolant sensor & thermostat are the most likely culprits. Most of us up on maintenance have already done the green-top sensor, so it's probably the thermostat. In which case, here is the official changing the thermostat DIY: [URL] .....
If you get this code, first check your fans. They're running? Okay, change your sensor & clear it. If it comes back, change the thermostat. If it still comes back, which has been known to happen, investigate further. [IMG] [URL] .....
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I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
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I have been battling a random reduced power issue with my 2004 Vue, 85000 miles, 4 cyl engine with manual transmission. On random start ups I will get the reduced power and check engine lights. No codes are logged but the freeze data will read mostly 2176 and occasionally a 2101. I have replaced the throttle body and pedal assembly plus checked and reseated the ecm connections. The problem still shows up randomly at start-ups. If it does appear, it seems that if I shut the engine off, turn the key to on without the engine running for about a minute, then restart the car, the car will start ok. It's almost as if the ecm has to relearn the throttle or pedal positions when this occurs.
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Over the past couple days my 5-speed 2000 Saturn SL1 has been doing something very strange. The other night around 11:30 pm I heard a big crash in my garage. I ran out to see what it was, and the car had moved forward about 4 feet, knocking down some boxes in the process. The car was in first gear, and had been off for at least 6 hours. The freaky thing is it moved forward against the grade of the garage. That’s right, the car was off, in first gear, with no one inside, and moved uphill on its own. A couple days later it did the same thing but with the emergency break on! It crashed into my parents garage door. The car managed to move up a steep driveway with the e-brake engaged. Again it moved about 4 feet.
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My P sits lower (about 2 inch) in the front after the car is parked for about an hour. No code on VAG-COM. No warning lights nor messages. What could this problem be? It started about a month ago. It actually occurs slowly just a few mins after I turn the engine off. It would go back to its normal height after I unlock the car with the remote or after I start the car.
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I just saw a video of an IS350 and the mirrors folded in when it was parked and locked. The model was a hybrid, so I am not sure if that is a different option. I am looking at the IS 350 F Sport awd. Just curious what extras it will or could have.
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Went down to my garage after the Prius had been off for at least 5 hours and heard a whirring kind of like a fan in the back half of the vehicle. I had never heard this before and it went on for at least 5 minutes then quit. My garage was probably around 60 degrees for most of that time, fwiw. Seems like the area of the battery fan but why would that need to run?
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My locks on the driver's door do not work when the vehicle is parked. The locks work find from the other doors, the keypad and the remote. Also door ajar light comes on. When the vehicle is moving the locks work fine.
I replace the lock switch, but it didn't make any difference. I loosen the three screws holding the mechanish sprayed with lots to WD40 and moved the mechanism around a little, it worked a couple of times, but then back to nothing.
Thinking about replacing the door ajar switch, but not sure of the relationship to the lock.
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The temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
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The service vehicle soon light of my 2004 Saturn came on after the alarm system tripped. How to reset it?
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Parked my truck and headlights wont shut off on there own like normally do after few seconds. That is the only issue with my vsm. Or maybe I have a gem? should i replace it now or wait. Also where to buy one if I need one?
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Need to solve the problem of my Toyota Prius car in 2008. The car is cold while working well for a maximum time of 1 hour, the first symptom is to stop the air conditioner to cool, then turn on the light triangle warning, after driving a little longer for the vehicle and no more moves. If you wait until the vehicle returns to work for a few minutes to cool, then everything fails again with the same symptoms. And you change the battery 12 Volt, and you change the water pump hybrid system and I can not solve!
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