My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
View 3 Repliesif the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
View 3 RepliesSo clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
View 5 RepliesSays A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
View 2 RepliesI got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
View 12 RepliesI am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
View 2 RepliesThe AC in my 2004 V6 4-matic wagon has not worked since the dealer had it in their shop last. Coincidentally, neither does the outside temp display on the dash. I tried one of those recharge kits with the cans but the pressure guage registers 90 PSI when I hook it up, more than enough according to the instructions. So it seems the system is charged and it looks like the compressor will not engage. Could the temperature problem and the AC be related? Manual says it only kicks in when the outside temp is hot enough so I figure how will it know if its hot enough if the temp probe is not working? (unless there is another probe somewhere) ...
View 7 RepliesSo my 2003 LS AC is not working. I had the Unit fully charged. and it started working. A few days later it stopped working. Checked Freon, and it is fully charged. I get power at the compressor but it will not engage. I ran the DATC Self test and got a 24 26 code back. What this code is? Why the ac clutch will not engage?
View 3 RepliesThere is a rattling sound that seems likie it MIGHT coming from my AC compressor or somewhere in that area when the AC is on and the car is in Drive (while stopped) or in Park but it goes away if you put the car in neutral or turn the AC off? What is the problem?
View 5 RepliesHow I can tell if I have an AC leak or a compressor issue? I recently added freon and stop leak and the AC was blowing nice and cold for a week or so but now it takes a while to get cool but not cold like it was. How can you tell when you have a compressor problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a problem with my AC that is driving me mad. The compressor won't always engage, especially when accelerating. I browsed the forums and came upon this link; SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap , very useful. With the AC on, when the compressor didn't engage, I just hit the clutch plate with a wood pole and the compressor immediately turned on.
So its definitely not pressure related and as far as I know, the relay and wiring are working or else it wouldn't even turn on. It works well for a few minutes (very well) and then it just stops working. Anyway, I read the instructions on that page. The thing is... when I put the keys in ON and turn the AC on... the clutch still doesn't engage, making it impossible for me to get the plate out to get the shim out.
Model: Ford Explorer 2000 SOHC....
I was on my way to work and my car would not start after I stopped at the gas station. One of the people at the station gave me a jump start and I continued to work. I asked one of my co workers to give me a jump to get home and when I started the car there were sparks and a bit of smoke from the battery. We hooked it up right and it will turn over but not start. The fuses are all good, the dash lights come on (service engine soon, check engine and security). We replaced the battery, and the coil assembly (I think that contains the ICM, but not sure). I called the mechanic I normally use and he said it was probably time to buy a replacement car. My friend (the one who hooked it up wrong) thinks it might be fixable, he has some mechanic experience and stated we are getting no spark and the fuel pump will not engage. We hooked up a car scanner to it and it was unable to communicate.
View 6 RepliesI noticed that if i don't use my car for more than 3 days, it take my A/C compressor more than a minute to engage. Once it engages, every is ok. A/C is cold and everything is back to normal. Is that a safety feature for our compressor?
View 14 RepliesI have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
Compressor does not engage, and my fans do not come on when I turn on the A/C. They do come on low speed when I jumper pins 1 and 2 on the temp switch plug, but they do not come on high speed when I jumper pins 2 and 3.
I have replaced the FCM with a new one, as well as a guaranteed working used one; neither one changed anything. I assumed right away that it was the fcm because my original one has a hole eaten through it from battery acid.
Compressor clutch ohms out within spec, and it will engage if jumpered.
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t and the A/c doesn't work. I took a look and I know that the clutch/compressor does not engage. also, the rad fans do not turn on when I have the AC on in the car. all I get is hot air. I tested the line and there is no freon in them whatsoever. which is why the compressor is off. however, I can't add any freon without it working. I checked the fuses on the side of my dash and on top of the battery as they seem to be ok. Also, I was told that I just need to replace the compressor with a new one and I should be good to go. Is this true? It will be an easy fix if it is.
View 13 Replies2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.