As soon as the ac is turned off the rumbling is gone. What the cause of this is. My car has 91000 miles on it. This just started happening today.
View 1 RepliesAbout 3 weeks ago my car,a 2007 saturn vue 6cyc., started making banging noises in the glove box when I start the car. The noise last for about 10 seconds and is very loud. The car runs great, no problems.
View 8 RepliesI drive a 1997 Saturn SL1, 295,000 miles. Great car. Good gas mileage, very, very low maintenance. I cleaned the engine about three years ago with an engine cleaner (Gunk?). When I turned on the engine it started to make a loud noise. The best way to describe it is a loud whining noise. It appears to be coming from the AC. When I turn on the AC the noise gets quieter (but it's still annoying). The noise does not appear to have affected the car's performance, but it is loud and annoying. What the problem is?
View 5 RepliesOur 1993 Saturn SL1 wouldn't start this morning (this never happens). After we turned the car off, it made this "dugga, dugga, dugga" noise that seems to come from below the emergency brake. Even though the car has been off, the noise has been happening intermittently since this morning. We just replaced the battery a month ago.
View 3 RepliesOn Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
I have a 2007 Saturn vue hybrid that has the check engine light on-the code says POAC. I can't find anything on the Internet what this code means. I'd like to fix it myself instead of bringing it to a dealer and getting charged big bucks! What this code means?
View 3 Repliesmy 05 f150 5.4 with 76,000 has a weird rumble at idle, I don't think its a miss and there's no codes and when I put it in park it goes away or if the idle changes just a little you don't feel it. And you feel it through the brake pedal the most its not real bad butb enough to bother me.
View 5 RepliesRumble whoosh noise (her description,,, I am currently in another State) coming from my wife's vehicle in the front of the engine compartment. Closer to the passenger side near the water pump. Noise has been present for the last six months, but would always go away after it was warmed up. During winter (In Tucson AZ so never gets too cold), it is worse due to the cold weather. Previously only happened at low RPMs and ended to be worse when turning a corner.Today it occurred also after operation for a quite beyond starting of the vehicle, and is starting to sound like the failure of bearings. Also a burning smell was occurring.Just replaced both the water pump and the alternator, and the front struts. The water pump is not leaking but the old pumps leaks are still evident. The current mechanic trying to troubleshoot is stumped. Motor mounts are getting close to failure, but still appear to not be a problem. CV joints are fine. What to look at?
2006 Toyota Rav4 4X4 4 Cylinder....
2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
I bought a '05 F-150 with a 5.4 with 112k miles on it a few months ago. It had been sold from an auction, looked really clean, and a good price. Not long afterward it started having issues with running rough at idle. That's when I found this forum and began reading. Tried different things but it only got worse and finally had a shop look at it. Cam phasers were not doing well. Not a cheap fix but more involved engine work than I had ever done so I had them do the work.
It ran fine for a few days and then the idle rumble came back slightly and the check engine light (CEL) came on. I read the code and it came back with a number that indicated air flow was an issue. Internet search said to clean the throttle body. Some threads on this site also said do the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor while I was at it. Much has changed since I used to work on cars as a kid. Everything has it own cleaner. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner (it was beyond filthy) and a toothbrush. Put it all back together (started late and it was dark by now) and took it for a quick run to see how it had improved. Instead of smooth, it started running even rougher, and within 100 yards went into fail safe mode. Now my mood is getting darker. Park it and go inside to watch the Aggies in their bowl game.
Good game but the truck is still running rough and I am losing confidence in my ability to do simpler things on it. I get up the next day and run codes on it. It had three codes all pertaining to air flow or the throttle position. I am thinking I screwed up the throttle setting somehow when cleaning or maybe only put the MAF sensor in upside down (that seemed unlikely since the screws only seemed to line up in one orientation). So I open the hood to check the MAF sensor just in case and find to my embarrassment that, in the dark, I failed to plug the MAF sensor back in. The problem was a loose screw holding the tools. I plug the sensor cable onto the sensor and take it for a ride. It runs great. Life is good. MPG is climbing higher on the onboard display. My confidence is returning even after humbling mistakes. After everything, I still love this truck.
So, now for the tune-up advice. The truck runs well but still rumbles slightly. Based upon everything, I believe it was well cleaned before it sold but maybe not fully serviced. Spark plugs were possibly never done. I intend to do a tune-up on it but do not know what has already been done so I'll assume almost nothing. The air filter looks brand new. The serpentine belt has nicks so that will be on the list. I am thinking of changing the following:
Spark plugs
Spark plug boots
fuel filter
serpentine belt
PCV valve
Oil was changed when the cam phaser work was done. So the advice really boils down to a question:
Is there anything else I should consider changing or doing or cleaning? I have not worked on cars much in the last 30 years but am beginning to enjoy it again.
Car: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTPEngine: 3.8L SuperchargedMileage: 94,300 miles
Issue : Usually after driving the car for a long period of time (approx 20 miles or more), Ill begin to hear a grinding coming from the front of the car. The grinding/ groaning can be felt in the gas pedal as well. Depending how hard I hit the gas the frequency increases. I am not sure if this is associated with the grinding, but i noticed that when I turn sharply and go easy on the gas and progressively add pressure the car will cut out until i cut straighten the wheel. Then all the power I requested is applied all at once.
What the locals think :
CV Shafts - Sears told me the first time i went to get them checked that my CV shaft boot was a little loose, suggested changing it. Then I went back two weeks later and they denied saying that and said my cv shafts were fine. (talk about confusing)
Wheel Bearings - Someone I know said my wheel bearing could be slipping or my traction control could be on its way out, so i replaced both front bearings.
Tune up - Someone suggested it could be mis-firing, with it coming up on 100,000 miles, i did a tune up. (plugs, wires, coil packs)
Transmission - Someone said the transmission could be going bad. So i did a flush and inspected the fluid, no shavings or any sign of extreme wear. (car shifts great too.)
Clogged Catalytic converter - the cat was clogged, two new 02 sensors and a new cat didn't even solve the issue I am describing, but it does have more power now.
Throttle Body - Someone said it could be a dirty throttle body....so i had that cleaned also.
And finally, some electric temperature sensor - someone said it wasn't getting the right fuel mixture, so i replaced the sensor to remedy that.
Fuel pressure was also tested to ensure the fuel pump was doing its job, everything checked out great
I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
View 3 RepliesHave just leased 2008 pasat 2.0l turbo. Great engine but suspension has loud rumbles /noise on uneven pavement. Have lowered tire pressure to 30 . suspension noise still persists. only have 1500 miles. dealer says that everything is still to factory spec.
View 5 RepliesJust rejoined this Ford gang after years absence. Used to own "The Muny Pit", a '79 F-150 4WD monster with a '69 429... constantly breaking something. Anyway, where to look on my '08 F-150 XLT 4WD with a 5.4, 83,000 miles. Searched the search bar for my title and found a post on an '00 Expedition describing similar issue than mine... for about 6 months now when I accelerate either from stop or a crawl; forward or reverse; more so when turning, but does do it wheels straight.
Upon initial acceleration I have this horrendous rumble / shudder in the truck, like the grinding metal bearing sound/feeling felt when the pinion bearing went out on my '79 (only felt it seconds before the 9" rear pumpkin exploded). Once rolling it stops. I have checked all wheel bearings.. I have check all the suspension joints... everything looks fine, no obvious issues. The only suspension mod I've done is a 1.5" leveling kit when brand new. On the Expedition two replys suggested changing the transmission/transfer case fluids claiming it cured their vehicles.
I noticed while driving my car there was a unusual rumble or grinding sound coming from my drivers side front wheel well. I get out and look I see a bunch of Fluid all over my wheel well. I look around turn my wheel around and see this fluids all on my rotors and suspension. Ive noticed couple weeks back the boots on the struts were ripped in two pieces from deteriorating or dry rotting (this was on both sides) and ive also been hearing some odd squeaking sound for over 15k miles every once in a while going over big bumps or train tracks. Struts go out at only 80k miles on their corolla? Yeah struts do usually lose their life around 60-80k miles but I've never seen them leak around that many miles. Is this a common issue?
View 5 RepliesI've done everything imaginable to stop my adorable Saturn Sky from overheating. I've replaced the water pump (it needed it), I've replaced the entire fan assembly (ultimately not sure it needed that), had top end cleaned, then rebuilt.
The fan is not coming on when the engine gets hot. BUT, if I pull over and pull out then push back in the fuse for the fan - VOILE! the darn fan kicks in. It may work again for a few days, or it may stop again 5 miles down the road. But I can always get it running again with my little fuse "reboot." When I go to pull the fuse, if the engine is hot, I hear a clicking like a relay trying to open and close. But, there's not a fan relay on my model.
I'm almost at the point of just installing a toggle switch to manually turn on the cooling fan.
I started having an issue with my battery light coming on and staying on so everyone told me change the alternator. So i did. 4 days later the battery light came back on and now i have it in the shop, alternator check came out good, battery check came out good and starter check came out good.
I haven't had any issues with the car before now, i have made several long trips, bought it brand new and have 69,000 miles on it. I love my car, but I am scared to find out what it's going to cost to fix it.
Where the heck am I supposed to get a Saturn part as none of the dealerships exist! It's a maybe 8-inch small hose that goes from the top of my engine to some kinda shaft; the shaft goes to my air-filter. That's all I need is this skinny hose as smoke is coming up from beneath the hood! Is there a name for this particular hose? Embarrassing as heck but I don't think (am I right?) that this will cause any major harm. (I've already begun cleaning beneath the hood.)
View 4 RepliesI just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Saturn Vue, V6, FWD with ~170K miles. It has a rotational noise coming from the front end that I can't find/fix. My regular mechanic has replaced both front wheel bearings, the rotors and brake pads. Tires have ~35K on them and no noticeable uneven wear. They were rotated and the noise didn't go away. Mechanic thought it might be transmission, but transmission shop disagreed, but couldn't suggest an alternative. The noise is speed dependent. Initially you had to be at highway speeds to detect it, but now you can hear it at 25 - 40 mph as well. Best description is a "whoop-whoop" sound. You cannot hear the noise if the car is parked and you rev the engine.
View 1 RepliesThis morning when I pulled into the garage after taking my daughter to school and shut the car off, I noticed a very loud hissing noise coming from the back end of my car, underneath somewhere. When I came back out an hour later to leave for work, it was still hissing. I drove to work and all was fine, but when I went out to the lot after work my car was completely dead.
I tried jumping it, but it wouldn't even take a charge. I had to find a ride home and will get it towed tomorrow. I'm sure the hissing noise is the cause, but what's going on. My car has never given me any problems--it's run perfectly for almost 150,000 miles (5 speed manual transmission). Maybe this is the end?