The lights were left on. After getting a boost, went home. Later came out to drive, but car now cranks up and dies. Friend suggested to do 2-foot driving with one foot on gas and other foot on brake. After, the car ran for short distance and began the same thing.
View 19 RepliesMy 97 Saturn SC1 dies as I slow to stop. It will restart but the RPM goes very high for a little while before it drops back down to normal. What do I need to do to fix it?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn SC2, it starts fine and runs fine for about 10 minutes. At that time it shuts off and no fire is going to the plugs. I have replaced the ignition control module and it made no difference. Once the engine shut off, I immediately replaced the icm with a new one and still no fire to the plugs. Once the car sits for a while, it will restart and continue with its vicious cycle.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 07 Camry cranks then immediately dies. I tried to crank it again and it want even start at all.
View 14 RepliesOkay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..
Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...
I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesI also tried jump starting - get same same result. Engine cranks, turns, and then sounds like it is just about to start up normally but it just dies completely. It seems to want to start but just can accelerate the engine high enough to keep it running. Almost like it's flooded on a carb motor.. 2000 V10..
View 7 RepliesI was hoping to have this resolved, but it seems how I have it parked affects the cold starting of this thing. Had an issue quite a while back as listed in another thread where the truck cranks and fires then immediately dies when cold. Takes at least three times to fire. Once fired it has no problems and will start easily unless it sits for almost a days time...on flat ground.
I replaced some injectors recently since they were bad and I had the truck parked facing downhill slightly when I did that. Since the repairs, the truck would start fine while parked there. Brought my trailer home and have the truck in the street on the flat ground and once again the 3 crank starts begin.
I have attached three Excel spreadsheets of my data from today. All three are the same data log just split up for size and elimination of dead time on the original spreadsheet.
So, I am guessing I have a HPOP problem, which is probably why I was getting intermittent contribution codes when the truck is up to temp. The truck fires totally fine when the oil is hot and up to temp so hot starts are no issue. Could the pump be "stuck" or just not working right when it has sat?
I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
View 5 Replies2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
I have a 2006 Saturn Ion 3. The air conditioner had been less cold for about a week and yesterday it stopped working completely. I tried filling the Freon, but it was not low. What are some other causes?
View 4 Replies2006 Saturn Ion2, 2.2L, The car seems to run fine with no a/c, strong acceleration, 900RPM idle. When the a/c is turned on at idle, the revs drop to 400RPM and the engine shudders. At speed with the a/c on, the car shuts itself off and throws code U0100(lost communication with engine control module), emissions light, and flashes "PWR STR" and "COOLANT" on the dash.
My theory is: the a/c over stresses the motor, dropping the engine revs, causing the voltage to drop below 10v. The ECU then panics and shuts off the motor. Is this possible? I would like some reassurance before I start swapping out parts in the driveway.
I have a 2006 Saturn Ion coupe and it occasionally won't start after a cold (below 32 degrees) night. What happens is on certain mornings, I'd go and start the car but the engine won't turn. The radio plays, the dome lights go on, the engine just won't turn, at all. The funny thing is without me doing anything else, when I try it after around 10 minutes, it starts right up and runs fine the rest of the day. Could the 10-minute wait be indicative of a frozen fuel line that's been thawed by the addition of gasoline when I press the gas pedal to start to car? Or is it something to do with the electrical system?
View 5 RepliesAs summer hit WI, I noticed that the a/c did not really work. At most it takes the humidity out of the cabin air and it does blow somewhat cooler air when the car is driving vs. idling. Our mechanic added freon and a dye to try and trace the problem. The added freon worked for about 2 weeks (but still not back to working like regular) and then it petered out.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 Sonata LX cranks and sometimes starts. Usually it doesn't. I checked the spark plugs for a spark, which it has.
I attached a noid light to the fuel injector, and it flashes. I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle and the car starts and stays running.
I ran a computer diagnostic on it and it reads this: ""Monitor camshaft position in the full retard condition or during CWT control. Camshaft switching out of 109 to 141 degrees in full retard position, 70 to 140 degrees CRK during CWT control."
I'm not mechanically inclined, but what to do up to now. Now I'm at a complete loss as to what is wrong or what to do next.
This is my son's car. He said it started losing power and then finally just died on the side of the road. The first thing I thought of was change the fuel filter. changed it yesterday and it still won't start (cranks with no problem). I used my code scanner on it and it showed three codes: P0300 / P0301 / P0305. I really don't think it's spark plugs or plug wires.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Saturn Vue that has an intermittent problem. After commuting for 50 miles and parking for the day, when I leave to go home by pulling forward out of the parking space, there is a loud metallic clang and the left rear wheel locks. When I step on the brakes to stop the car stops, but the rear wheel stays locked. When I press the brake pedal all the way down about half way down there is a difference in pressure on the pedal and the rear wheel releases. This will repeat up to three times. Has also happened after the 50 mile drive and stopped at store for 20 minutes. Will not repeat every time, and of course not when there is a mechanic is anywhere near the vehicle.
View 1 RepliesMy car has power. Tries to start but makes a clicking noise. Now I cant even get it out of park. It says that my power steering fluid is low but didn't think that would stop it from starting and power steering seems to be OK. It is the coldest couple of days we have had and wonder if weather is a factor.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving about 40mph yesterday, the car suddenly began to slow down and pressing on the gas did nothing. I was able to coast to a parking lot and stop. The car would not start again. I towed to local shop. Was told I had burned out the starter. They placed the starter with a rebuilt starter that I purchased from a large and reputable salvage company in town who I have dealt with for many years. The repair shop said the engine was locked up and would not turn. They said it made a slight turn at first and then stopped. They tried turning with a wrench but no avail. Their assessment is the motor needs replacing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 solara 3.3L. I bought this car about 4 months ago and it was running fine. Couple weeks ago I try to start the car and it would crank but won't start. I checked the fuel rails it was getting but somehow not starting... What can be the problem?
View 1 Replies2009 Sonata V6. It was working fine from the last 10 months and all of a sudden, from couple of days it not behaving as usual.
It cranks some times and will start and some times it wont even crank just silent. (However all my dash lights, headlights sterio work fine).
But to my surprise, it started very fine this morning. So not sure, what the problem would be.
My car has 57000Kms and its still in warranty, so, if there is some thing wrong with the alternator, starter motor. will the warranty cover for those parts.