Saturn - Vue :: 2006 - Temperature Gauge Higher Than Normal?
Feb 22, 2011
Just wondering if this is anything to be concerned about. I have a 2006 Saturn Vue. It has just over 80,000 miles on it. The temperature gauge has always registered just below the "second mark" once the car is warm. As of last week, the gauge is now registering slightly past the "second mark." So, higher. It is no where near the "red" zone, and nothing seems to be wrong, but it has me concerned. I took it in for service and they said "it is still well within the normal range, don't worry about it." But I think something made the gauge go higher, and I am concerned about a problem lurking. Am I being a Nervous Nellie? I love my Vue and want to take good care of it.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
View 2 Replies
My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
View 1 Replies
1996 Miata. The hood of my car is so hot that you could fry an egg on it. The hood is so hot that you can not put your hand on it. The heat actually comes through and can be felt on the legs of the person in the passenger seat. The temperature gauge reads normal. This began recently. I took it to the Mazda dealer who said it was normal?
View 2 Replies
I have never seen any of my other cars do this and I just want to see if this is normal. It happens like clockwork every time I get in the car with a cold engine. I let the car sit while the RPMs are high and as soon as the tach drops I start to drive the car softly. The engine temp gauge reaches normal operating temp in a normal amount of time, it does not just jump to the middle. But after about 1 minute it just starts falling quite quickly, as you can see in the video. It's very predictable - happens every time I drive it so it was easy to catch on video. I don't notice any difference in engine performance. Is this normal for a VW GTI or is something wacky going on?
You can skip to 19-20 seconds in the video to see the needle drop.
View 24 Replies
Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
View 19 Replies
I have a 98 f150(4.6 V8) that has 'seemingly' overheated for about 5 seconds twice in the last month. I noticed the temperature gauge went all the way up after about 1 mile of travel, then it immediately fell back down to normal. The truck has 198k miles.
I flushed out the system using a Peak Flushing Tee, replaced the thermostat with spring facing the engine block, and refilled the system.
I haven't had another overheating instance but I am having problems with my heater....the truck seems to warm up fine and the heat starts off working well. The temperature gauge reads normal for a few minutes then drops and I lose the heat. The truck blows cool air for a while, then will start blocking hot air again.
I believe the water pump has been replaced fairly recently...the pulley has no slack and I don't see any leaks or wetness around the pump or its weep-hole.
I read it could be a blend door or blend door actuator. I don't hear any funny clicking and obviously get some heat.
Should I try another new thermostat? Intermittent water pump problems?
View 1 Replies
The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
View 3 Replies
Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2wd (V6-3.7L) that is showing an overheat on the temperature gauge on the dashboard. I replaced the radiator (which I noticed had pin hole leaks), the water pump, thermostat, and the temperature gauge sensor. The car is no longer running through coolant, but the temperature gauge on the dash still reads an overheat. I do not have any bubbling when the engine is cool, no white smoke, the fan turns on just fine, a/c and heater work, no visible leaks, equal heat from both rubber hoses to and from the radiator and fluid seems to be passing through them.
There is also no smoke and no weird sounds from the engine. The overheat on the gauge comes after about 10 minutes of operation and happens whether I am driving on the highway or stopped at light.The only thing that causes the temperature gauge to go down to normal is turning on the heater full blast.Is this issue just a short in a wire somewhere? Should I start thinking head gasket? If yes to head gasket, should I use the "sealants" that are out on the market as a temporary fix?
View 1 Replies
Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
View 14 Replies
Recently installed a curt trailer light. I modified the V plug in harness to work with the C.
I noticed the fan was running louder then usual. I took the right rear panel off were the HV exhaust vent it and there is no ducting from the factory.
The battery duct just goes to the back of the seat and vents out in that right corner right behind the 12V.
It makes its way up and over the right rear tire tub then what ever comes out of the rear exhaust, just vents out with momentum from down below. No duct guiding it from what I can see?
I went back and zip tied a wire that was in the path to sides were other factory wiring runs.
This seemed to fix the issue after making everything neat?
Not sure what caused it but it seems to be from wiring that was in the way? When I run the HV fan with my SG and remove the shock tower assess cover on the passenger side. I can feel hot air coming out. This might be an easy way to get more exhaust venting for anyone that wishes to do that.
View 19 Replies
While driving my 97 Saturn SW2, the car couldn't shift into a higher gear (out of 2nd). while pushing on the gas, the RPM's would go higher but not shift. Also, the 'Service Engine' light came on. I don't have a code reader. Luckily I was close to home. When it parked it, I noticed a leak under the car, in the front section of the engine. I've also noticed that the past few days when putting the vehicle into reverse, it lurches pretty hard when it catches (as in, it jerks the car back suddenly). What could be the problem(s)? Should I drive this to the mechanic or have it towed?
View 7 Replies
My wife and I have 2013 PIP (His and Hers) and we compete for highest EV miles. Her car has had consistently recharged with 14- 15 estimated EV miles. This morning she called me and said as she left the garage she noticed that EV miles were 18.4. I thought wow wish mine did that. We just finished charging hers again and I went out to verify and I was blown away when I saw 20.9 EV miles. This can't be correct, what could be happening?
View 19 Replies
The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
View 8 Replies
So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
View 16 Replies
Started to hear noise from passenger side front wheel at higher speeds and will disappear when turning wheel to right.
From what I have been reading this sounds like it the wheel bearing.
Is this a easy repair or is more work than it sounds.
Autozone shows wheel bearing and hub as separate pieces.
when removing the parts from the car do they come out as assembly or in parts
View 1 Replies
Only during the summer, my 2003 Vue transmission jerks and shifts to (I believe) to a higher gear. Mechanic replaced the computer "harness" but it did not solve the problem. The car has little power to accelerate from a stop. I usually pull over, turn off the motor, and restart the vehicle.
View 3 Replies
Took a trip today that was 3 hours there and 3 hours back. Truck ran normal on the way there (eot about 202 and ect about 196-198), but on the way back truck ran a little hotter than normal (ect as high as 214 eot stayed within 2-3* plus or minus ect). Fan did kick on every time I hit ect of 212 and would drop it down to 196-198 and oil temp would drop at the same rate.
Truck is stock 190k miles with a bulletproof egr cooler and coolant filter. Oil cooler probably has about 20k on it. (4th one on this truck- since I like changing them out as much as the rest of us). I checked coolant level when I got home and I might've added a pint to get to bottom of sticker. I'm not sure it wasn't a pint low when I did last flush and cooler replacement.
No puking and I can't find any leaks. I pulled egr valve and no moisture in manifold just a worm out o ring that'll I'll replace. I can't find any leaks. Where to check that I haven't? I don't feel like I'm losing coolant because I wasn't really low. My fan never failed to kick on when I hit 212 or stopped at a red light. No moisture in manifold so I'm not thinking losing coolant due to head gasket. Maybe radiator looks ok but tomorrow I will blow out any bugs to make sure.
View 5 Replies
Today my a/c stopped working, it just blow normal temperature air not cooling, never had a bad experience with it before, I even use it not on the lowest set up, always on 19 Celsius. It was working fine when i arrived at work, 10 minutes later My boss told me to pick something up and when I turned the a/c on it Never worked.... Is this normal?
View 1 Replies
Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
View 42 Replies
