Saturn - Vue :: 2006 - Left Rear Brake Shoe Locking Up
Apr 30, 2011
On my father in law's 06 Saturn Vue, we replaced rear shoes, springs and drums. His left rear shoes are now locking up usually after the car sits for about an hour or two. It happens when he backs up and then puts it in drive. He gets about 30 feet and the brakes lock up, and upon test driving it i cannot recreate the condition. I do notice a chatter like war pattern on the shoes, and wheel cylinders are not leaking, although upon braking with the drums off, the wheel cylinders do appear to be a little weak. could this cause the lock up, or could it be a defective drum? I've thought about swapping left and right drums.
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I have a 2006 Saturn Vue that has an intermittent problem. After commuting for 50 miles and parking for the day, when I leave to go home by pulling forward out of the parking space, there is a loud metallic clang and the left rear wheel locks. When I step on the brakes to stop the car stops, but the rear wheel stays locked. When I press the brake pedal all the way down about half way down there is a difference in pressure on the pedal and the rear wheel releases. This will repeat up to three times. Has also happened after the 50 mile drive and stopped at store for 20 minutes. Will not repeat every time, and of course not when there is a mechanic is anywhere near the vehicle.
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Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
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02 Camry with rear disc and drum in hat for the parking brake.
i removed the rotors when doing the pads and found the parking brake shoe to be pretty skinny. Unlike regular drum brake shoes...
Then checked some pictures in google, i appears that parking brake shoes are by design pretty thin?
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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I recently have been having a few rather annoying issues on my 2010 Elantra.
First thing I noticed yesterday (note weather out is/was rather chilly and rainy) was that the red parking brake light was kind of flickering.. Not flashing, or staying on just flickering a tad and then going off; typically just when I first turn on the car. So of course that had me a little bit concerned.. Then when I got out of my car and locked it using the keyless entry and the lights on the car wouldn't flash, nor would the horn sound when hit twice. So I checked to see if they still flash twice when unlocking the car and they do.
Today I noticed that while driving down the road my car would occasionally unlock the doors by themselves (think its an electrical short??) and also the sound on my radio would occasionally turn up and down by itself (I know its a feature for road noise, but it did while stopped at a light too).
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Since delivery a month ago we have had 2 minor quirks.
keyless locking/unlocking rarely works. Tried using the 2nd key for a day or so but no difference. No light in the remote or indicator in the dash telling me battery is dead...
The rear courtesy lights above the rear seats only work occasionally. All button settings seem to be set correctly to come on when th doors open but they don't . Most of the time you cant even turn them on manually but sometimes they work..
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Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
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The issue began around July/August of this year. It sounds as if the car locks are attempting to lock and unlock while I am driving. It is a clicking sound. The doors will automatically lock when the car is going at 10 mph - this is normal. The locking/unlocking sound sometimes will start within 5 minutes and other times within 30 minutes - it is totally random. This does not happen every day but it is definitely monthly and has lasted anywhere from 3 days to 10 days. The other noise associated with it comes from the console on the passenger side. It is a clicking sound. This sound happens during the locking/unlocking sound but on intermittent cycles. The doors never become unlocked while I am driving. I purchased the car new.
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First of all, except for my current problem, I love the combination of Brembo disks and PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my 1998 Passat 1.8t Sedan for daily driving. The feel is great, less dust than OEM or others, consistent performance in wet driving (much much better than Mintex Redbox pads). Initially had a bit of squeal on the pads after about 300 miles, but then after some heartbreaking that went away and I have had over 3000 miles of squeal-free and consistent braking..... at least until more recently.
In January (~1000 miles ago), I switched from my summer wheels to my winter wheels. Ever since then, I have had an almost consistent squeal from my left rear brake setup. It occurs at the latter half of pressuring when the car has slowed. I've tried really hard freeway braking which works (for a few more breaking events). I've tried resetting the bolts on that wheel (I always use a torque wrench). That only solves it for a couple of braking events.
I have even removed the wheel, rotated the rotor on the hub and reset the wheel. Still no luck. The brake and rotor surface look in great condition, and there is definitely no play in the hub nor is their any warping evident - no pulsation at all. Everything is torqued properly. I have been able to get rid of the squeal for about 10 breaking events by riding the parking brake while at higher speeds for more than 5 secs. Sometimes with really hard braking it goes away for a short while. Then, in either case, it comes back.
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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I have a slight squeal from the left rear brake when in reverse. Doesn't do it all time and never when roads are wet. I disassembled the caliper and all looks good. I replaced the pads about a year ago and the noise just recently started, so its hard to blame that. I did not use the brake anti-noise lube......but I never have.
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I have no left rear signal or brake lights. The right side works fine and both left/right tail lights work fine, just no left brake or signal. I checked for broken wires and can not find anything. 1992 Ford E50 7.5L.
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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I just installed the lights and found that only the outside left light worked with the brake depressed, the outside left inside left and inside right worked with the light switch in the on position. Also both blinkers work.
I switched my byte 18 to 04 already and am not (as of now) using my euro light switch (I didn't think this would be it but I'm at a complete loss) ...
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My wife's 2003 sportrac has developed a problem. The left rear turn signal brake light will not work. The tail light does. When you turn on the left turn signal the front bulb and the dash light flashes real fast. I have changed both, the front and rear bulbs with no luck. I've read on here about the tilt steering column deal. I have moved the steering column while operating the turn signal with no change.
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My 2006 Sonata has an on again/off again problem with the left rear brakes getting very hot... Took it to my mechanic and of course the problem never manifested itself there and all checked out fine... Got to work last night and I could smell it as soon as I stepped out of the car and and the drum is glowing cherry red...
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My left parking brake cable seems to stick. The parking brake shoes and springs appear to be fine. I have ordered a new left parking brake cable and need to know how to remove the old cable and feed the new cable to the hand brake lever. Looking for the brake cable removal procedure and diagrams?
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