Saturn - Starters - Sc :: 2001 - Every Once In A While Car Will Not Start Up Randomly
Jul 10, 2013
For about the last two years or so, my 2001 Saturn SC2 will every once in awhile not start up. I looked at the several posts about this, but my problem seems different...my starter turns, the engine starts, but only stays on for a fraction of a second (it dies right away). Usually I wait for 10-30 minutes, and then I try again, and it starts up normal. Nobody seems to know what's wrong with the car, it always starts fine for the mechanics.
I haven't found any consistency with the weather, time of day, or how much I've been driving it. Also, the time in between non-starts is not regular - it has happened 3 times in one week, and then I didn't have a problem for months. It is truly random. I highly doubt its a battery problem - I've listened to the radio waiting for my car to start! It is starting to get SO frustrating - I am afraid to turn off my car because I'm not sure it will start again!
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
My daughter's 2004 Saturn Ion3 has had problems starting up for three weeks. Battery was replaced as was the crank shaft sensor. Mechanics cannot make it NOT start so they can't diagnose any more. My daughter goes out in the morning, the car won't start, it just makes a spinning noise, then waits 15 min and sometimes it will start. Sometimes turning the key again right away will cause it to make NO noise at all. What else could be wrong?
View 3 Replies
Bought a 2001 Saturn SL2 a couple of years ago. I love it except for one thing. It won't start. Actually the problem was that periodically would not start. I had the mechanic check the connections to the starter and it was fine. When I turn the key ALL the electric stuff works just fine and then when you turn it the next notch to start it all goes off, as it should, till you release it then it all goes ack to normal. SO, being a standard, it was easy just to park on a slight incline, JUST IN CASE. Well a couple of months ago, I changed the tilt of the steering wheel and it solved the problem for nearly 2 months, THEN the problem started again and has not relented. This makes me think that the problem is in the steering column. What I need to look for once I get the cover off the column? I have been told that sometimes solder joints can come lose. I can solder so that would be an easy fix but before I tear into it.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2001 Saturn sl. Within the past two weeks I've been having issues with my car needing jumped to start. I've replaced the starter last year. The battery is only a few months old and have had the alternator checked. I put my car in neutral and my car died...
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 saturn l200. When I have the car running for awhile, the temp gets half way and the fan comes on, but then shuts right back off and will not come on again. Recently I have replaced the radiator fan, the fan module, and the sensor. How does the car fan work? We have had to add a switch to the fan to turn it on when we have to.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 Saturn SC2. I went out to start my car and all the lights and chimes worked but car would not start.. wouldn't even act like it wanted to. I did hear a little humming maybe with a lil click but not like "click click click" sound . O and the radio wouldn't work either, and when i turned it to on the security light and check engine lights were on, not blinking. I tried resetting the alarm (saw on a site) by unlocking the door, turning it off and on and off and leaving it unlocked for 30 min that didn't do anything.
When I came back the lights were getting dimmer and now this morning I have no notta. Now my battery is dead and I cant check anything, does this sound like the security, how do i quick fix it or is this the ignition or starter???? My battery is brand new. Oh and I did just start using my alarm clicker again after about a year because I thought i lost it but just found it, that's why I am really thinking it has to do with the alarm but I cant even check the ignition or the starter with a dead battery. I tried to jump start it and notta.
View 2 Replies
I bought a new battery when my car would not start, but that was not the problem. There is no code, just sometimes the car won't start. I am pretty sure it does not make a clicking noise, and if I keep trying to turn it over, eventually it starts.
This happens maybe one day a week. It might click once each but I will now pay closer attention. It sometimes comes on after a few tries and sometimes at the most 10 tries. It has been doing this for about 2 months max.
My question is could this be anything but the starter and can I tell by putting it in neutral or doing anything else without having to take the car somewhere or without taking it apart? I already bought a starter.
View 8 Replies
I drive a 98 Subaru Forester with ~190,000 miles on it. This car is incredibly reliable and excluding the following incident I have never had a problem with it. The other day I went out to run some errands and when I came out of the store my car wouldn't start. I turned the key and nothing happened. There was no sound from the engine or starter whatsoever, but the radio, air, etc. came on. It had started perfectly fine just an hour earlier that day. I had a friend and with a few strikes from a hammer on the starter the car fired right up so that appears to have been the problem. It's been a few days now and it has started right up every time I've turned the key since. Was this incident just a fluke? Is this what they call a "dead spot" in the starter? Should I replace it or can I get away with just carrying a hammer and push starting if worse comes to worst?
View 2 Replies
So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Mercury Sable that will not start. The battery is good. All the dash lights come on when you turn the key and I can hear the fuel pump, pump up. The starter does not make any noise, nothing happens at all.
View 2 Replies
When the ignition is turn on, it does not turn over. After 45 minutes, it starts without a hickup. This has been going on for a few days.
This is a black Mazda6 V6 Sport edition. She has had one other problem in the past, where the whole car quit running while on the interstate at 65mph. She barely got it pulled over and it would not start. She had it towed but was able to start it once it was at the repair shop. The code mentioned a transmission issue, but didn't offer any clarity to the dealership mechanics. They never solved the problem, but that did not happen again.
I mention both of these because they may or may not be related. There has been several months between the issues.
There were burn marks on the starter, so the dealership replaced it, thinking that was the issue. $600 later, the symptoms remain. Its not the battery because it starts eventually. The codes on the computer were supposedly "random garble," so they have not done anything further and do not know how to fix it.
View 3 Replies
Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
View 10 Replies
2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2006 Acura RSX with an auto transmission that is having problems starting. The electronics work (ie lights, stereo, auto-locks etc) and the engine starts to crank when the ignition is engaged, but it sputters out and doesn't turn all the way over even with a jump start. The battery tested positive and none of the fuses are blown, how this could be fixed?
View 10 Replies
2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
View 6 Replies
We have an 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. It isn't driven very much -- only about 25,000 miles total. Lately it has been having problems when we try to start it. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it needs a few tries. When it fails, we can hear the engine turning over, but don't get to ignition.
We drive this car a couple of times a month. Is it possible this issue is related to the infrequent use?
Could this be something more serious? What do we even ask the mechanic to look at?
View 7 Replies
Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
View 2 Replies
This past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
View 1 Replies
2005 saturn l300 water leak and pools driver side flooring. have removed carpet and sound cushion from flooring. used garden hose to find leak source w/o luck. it has rained twice w/o leaks.
View 2 Replies
I own a 2005 Saturn Ion, automatic trans, that we have never had any serious issues with in the past.
Saturday April 7th, I was on the highway heading out of town. My engine, oil and battery lights came on and the car stopped responding to the gas pedal, I could no longer accelerate, the car was coasting. The radio was still on, I was able to use my turn signals to get off the highway and turn on my flashers on the side of the road.
Once safely off the highway, I turned the car off and attempted to turn it back on, nothing. It didn't even sound like it turned over, pretty much dead silent. Approximately 30 minutes after pulling off the tow truck showed up and took me to a Sears automotive, the "closest" mechanic to where I had gotten stuck.
At Sears, approximately an hour now after the incident, they were able to start my car to get it into the garage. I told them the same thing that I had posted above, adding that I may or not have had cruise control on at the time, and that my car clock had been slowly losing time over the past couple of years, I was now 22 minutes slow after resetting the clock about 5 months earlier.
They then checked my battery and the computer codes? They took the battery out to charge and told me that the computer had a code "P601" stored in it, something to do with the ICM. This was a computer issue and not something they could fix at Sears Automotive. They charged my battery and then told me it was still bad, and tried to sell me a battery so that they could test my alternator, because they would be "cheaper than a dealership." I asked them to just put the car back together and called another tow truck.
When taking the car out of the garage, I don't know if they had to jump it to move or not, but as they were parking it, the power steering went out in my car. They spent 10 minutes looking for a reservoir that doesn't exist because I learned later that my power steering is electric since I have an electric engine. After that fiasco I was towed to a Buick GMC dealership to deal with the computer issue.
They didn't look at the car until the following Monday, April 9th. The dealership could find nothing wrong with the car. Sears removing the battery had taken the codes out of the system, although I did give them the information sears had given me, P601- ICM. The power steering fuse was blown, but they suspected that Sears had done that by improperly jumping the car to get it out of the garage, I can't prove or disprove that.
Other than that the car started fine for them, ran fine, gave no codes, and did not cut off. I picked it up after work and have been driving it to and from work since.
This morning, Monday April 16th, the car did the same thing to me again on my way to work. I was driving on a smaller road this time, doing 45 as opposed to 65. My engine light came on first, and the car shuddered, like if you were riding with someone who's not good at driving a stick shift. Then my battery light came on. All my electronics, radio, windows, flashers, etc were still working as they were the first time this happened.
I was able to pull off the side of the road and make the necessary phone calls. After 15 minutes the car started normally when I cranked it, this being the first time I cranked it after pulling over and turning it off. I drove straight to the dealership, and they had it all day.
Again, they can find nothing wrong with the car. They got a code that says Cam Shaft, which they said is too vague to narrow down without charging a great deal of labor. The car started up, ran well, and hasn't acted up for them at all. They said they checked my connections, and added something to reduce resistance in case that was hindering it. They are at a loss what to do next unless the car gives them more specific symptoms.
I'm at a loss what to do. I don't really want to keep driving this vehicle when it suddenly cuts off on me twice in two weeks.
View 2 Replies
