Saturn - Sl :: Malfunctioning Electric Locks Drawing Down Battery
Apr 4, 2012
1996 Saturn SL2. The electric locks have been malfunctioning such that they will suddenly lock and unlock continuously until the battery is dead. It occurs for reasons unknown - like the locks have a mind of their own. Been occurring intermittently - about once every couple of weeks. Mechanic's been unable to replicate the problem. I'm fairly clueless about cars. It's an older car, obviously, but is otherwise okay ....
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Problem: battery is drawing about 280mA with everything off, doors and hood closed, no lights on. I believe draw should be about 40mA under this condition. Indeed, after several days battery is low and car won't start.
I pulled each fuse (1 at a time), but 280mA draw remained. I repeated 2 more times to make sure, same. I tried each relay as well, same. In monitoring the problem, the system will occasionally drop to around 40mA, but it's random and rare and seemingly not reproducible. '01 Passat wagon GLS '00 Audi TT '86 Westy
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Power windows and power door locks having a mind of their own? They will suddenly start working on their own. Some kind of a module perhaps?
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There is a feature of the lock mechanism whose name I do not know - When the key is inserted and turned it unlocks the driver's door, turned a second time it unlocks all doors, turn and hold and it lowers all the windows.
This is working intermittently. That is, the second turn does not unlock the other doors, nor does the turn-and-hold lower the windows. As a side bar, when it does not function, using the key to unlock the car it does not turn off the alarm.
I'd like to understand more thoroughly how this system operates so that I can more fully research and diagnose.
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I put new batteries in the fobs, and my electric locks work using the buttons in the door.
Checked the key fobs at autozone.. they are ok.
Is there a training procedure for Ford OEM fobs?
F250 2002 4x4 5.4 Lariat Crew
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My 2002 Grand AM turns over like it wants to start but dies right away. Head lights and all work good but right off dome light, radio, and electric car door locks didn't work. After reading and trying the security bypass by putting the key to ON etc., many tries I did finally kill the battery. Jumped it for quite a while and same issue.
The security light has been on for years with no issue but doesn't narrow down if it is the bypass problem since it stays on but the other electric items not working at the same time has me perplexed.
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The electric door locks on the left side of my '99 Passat sometime don't work. The left rear works 90% of the time, but sometimes it doesn't lock. All I have to do to get it to work is unlock all the doors with and then hit lock and that cures it every time, and I have been living with that for 3+ years. The driver door lock sometimes decides to not lock or unlock at times. Normally it starts working on it's own when it feels like it, but again, it works 90% of the time. What the likely cause should be and how to go about getting it fixed?
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I've got a 2002 jetta. new ecu, new cluster, new keys (new to me from a 2010 beetle) all installed but my windows, door illumination, locks and electric mirrors dont work. Windows will go up and down with key in door, and locks work that way as well. if i put my old cluster back, everything works fine.
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I have my toyota pirus 2008 and i'm facing problem with it electric door locks. it's Security light flashing on the dash and the electric door locks won't unlock from the inside of the car but will lock. so i'm looking for a locking for locksmith who can solve it asap.
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Driving today I noticed a hot smell, it went away shortly after. When I got home I noticed the electric door locks no longer function. I guess this will be a test of my 3rd party warranty!
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My father who is elderly, has difficulty disengaging the steering column lock on his 2006 Saturn Vue. I also have experienced this problem even after trying to rock the wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key over. This appears to be a known problem and we have had to tow the Vue in for have the cylinders "de-burred," but the problem persists. He has had many vehicles with this feature in the past, but we have never had any problems before. Does this feature can be disabled. I am afraid he will be stranded some place away from home because he is unable to get the car started. I realize this is an anti-theft device, but it that is a risk we are willing to take.
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2006 Prius, 114K miles. In the last week started getting the intermittent warning of "There is a problem with the parking transmission lock. Place the car on a flat surface and fully set the parking brake." Car would not start, would only go into neutral. All accessories work fine, seems to be plenty of 12V power. Did a lot of research and determined that the most likely cause was a failing 12V battery. Used the diagnostic mode to check voltages, had 12.1 at "READY", 11.6 under auxiliary loads, and 14.1 with engine on (I did get the car to start eventually but can't figure out how and under what set of circumstances it would start).
So I ordered a 12V battery and replaced it. After replacing, I still had the Hybrid warning light, but after stopping and starting the car 3 times it went away. Car worked fine for a day but now the intermittent warning has returned. With the warning on, the parking lock seems to be fully engaged (car won't roll even on a slope).
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My car has been running great and last week when I turned it off it would not start back up. I checked the battery, starter, alternator, and all the fuses and still nothing. It cranks over fine but I have no power to the radio or door locks. What can be the problem?
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
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So my wife's 2007 Camry just got a new battery a week or two ago. The other day she goes into the garage to her car to find it dead, with no power to the locks (had to use key instead of FOB), no accessories, no dash lights and no dome light. When she tried to start the vehicle it gave her a single click, did not crank and did not start.
Initially I approached it from the perspective that maybe the alternator was not charging the battery, so I charged the battery with my portable charger. The battery charged fast and checked out okay.
I then used the key FOB to unlock the door. Adjusted the electric seat to better fit me. The dome light came on. I also checked to see the head lights came on. I turned the ignition to start and I got a single click. Tried it again and got no feedback. The dome light was no longer lit and no other accessories worked. All of the power seemingly drained following the attempt to start.
Now I am wondering if the starter is shorting out or if something more mysterious in the electrical system is malfunctioning in a way that I have never faced before...
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So recently I was driving through highway 17 with 4 people and we'll my 07 Prius was slowing down like never I eventually smelled a little burn but I ignored it I just though the engine was working a bit to hard. Recently I noticed that on the energy screen it only shows that the battery is getting charged it sometimes used the battery to the motor but not often. I did notice though that I run with electricity more when I'm in the city. It's quite weird it's like the electric motor doesn't work on the freeway.
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For some reason, all of my cig lighter sockets stopped working properly. Voltage is steady at around 12.5v but amperage constantly drops to near 0. Fuse is intact of course and all other electrical components are working fine.
What can possibly be a cause of this?? and any solution?? It's been 2 days and I would like to know my options before heading to a dealership.
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It's been like that for a a while now. Every morning the hybrid battery would run down to last bar. When I start the car it would be 3/4 full and it would keep draining even though I'm on flat road.
The overall mileage has not changed much but its annoying with the battery goes to last bar and there's no electric power to accelerate.
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For the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
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My nearly new Hyundai Sante Fe sat in the garage for 18 days while I was away. On return the battery was dead. The auto assistance truck came to restart the car. His portable charger did nothing except make the emergency horn honk continuously while connected to the battery. We rolled the car back to the truck and hooked up to the big charger on-board. This, too, caused the emergency horn honking for several minutes until the key start worked. The explanation suggested was that the security system drained the battery, and that locked the security system. The dealer's maintenance supervisor said "all new cars do this" and suggested I could disconnect the battery while it is parked for a "long time" and then reconnect. Maybe, but what a hassle and what if you can't open the electronic door lock to get to the hood release, to proceed. Is this really the state of things now?
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