Saturn - Sl :: Hard Clicking Sound Coming From Motor - Car Won't Start After Oil Change
Jan 16, 2011
I have a 2001 saturn l200 about aweek ago i hard clicking sound coming from my motor. So I change the oil and I put it r and back it up some and then I put in it in d then I lost all power and how it wont start. Someone told me its the timing then I take a look at the chain wen you try to start it the chain jumps up and done.
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I heard a clicking sound coming from my motor. I change the old and start if up and i put it in r to back it up some then I put in D to get it off the curve then I lost all power and the car wont start. I have just 120560 miles on it....
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I have 2001 saturn l200 about 150000 miles.. On cold days i hear a clicking sound coming from motor. When I push on gas pedal the clicking get little larder as soon the car warms up its stops clicking. I had the timing replace. Battery check. New oil. Oil pressure check....
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I just started hearing this clicking/ticking sound about two days ago. It is definitely coming from the pulley/belt side of the motor and is more pronounced from under the car. I've tried to see what happens when I turn the A/C on and it still continues like normal. At idle its spaced 3 seconds apart with 3 consecutive clicks/ticks.
As I raise the RPM its spaced closer but still has 3 pronounced clicks that I can hear until the exhaust drowns it out. Tension on the belt seems to be good and its in good condition. The car runs better than it did a year ago with MPG actually going up a few about a week ago (cleaned the MAF, new filter, new tires).
I did have a P0103 code 2 weeks ago due to an over oiled K&N filter but I've done the work listed above since then with great results. The car runs great right now but I'm a stickler for the little details, like obnoxious noises (especially ones that are potentially bad).
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i have a 2001 saturn l200.about 2 weeks ago i got a oil change done.then just 2 days ago i hard a clicking sound coming from the motor as the car warms up the car stops clicking..it does this wen i start the car up..
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I'm a fairly new owner of a 2002 W8 Passat. A few days ago I was leaving the grocery store to come home. The car usually starts right up. This time is took 2 or 3 tries of cranking the starter til it fired on. On the drive home I noticed the A/C no longer worked and it didn't display the temperature on the A/C screen like usual. I got home just fine. The next morning I tried to start it. The starter and battery sound very strong. I was a little low on fuel so I dumped two gallons in - didn't work. I noticed a sound like a hard drive spinning or searching coming from the middle of the dash. I thought is was the cd player, but I ruled that out by taking out the stereo fuse. Is there a computer that went bad? I can't imagine there being an actual spinning hard drive in the car, but that's what it sounds like to me. I also noticed the clock and trip meter were reset as well. I didn't disconnect the battery to cause this. All fuses look good. I'm hoping it's not the fuel pump. Bad relay?
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Our 2012 elantra gls with 112k miles on it decided to freak out yesterday.
Car wont turn over at all. there is also a clicking sound coming from the interior fuse block. I popped the hood and smelled sulfur. I put the volt meter to the battery and it shows 12.8 ish. I checked all the fuses and didn't find any blown. I also pulled the starter relay and tested it and it checked out.
Trying to turn the car over some times the dash light will flicker and the wipers will turn on by themselves. I also had a clicking sound coming from the fuse block under the hood. Interior lights come on but are dim and the parking light flicker a bit and fade. I downloaded the manual but am not sure what to look for at this point.
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I have a 2001 saturn l200. On monday I went outside to start the car and I heard clicking sound coming from motor. I did have a new battery put in. As so I push on the gas a little bit I hear it clicking as soon the car warms up its stop clicking and i did have a oil change done...
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A couple weeks ago I started experiencing some issues with what seems to be the ABS: when braking to a full stop, a "motor" sound appeared accompanied by vibration on the pedal; however, the ABS indicator light did not light on (although it does light on when I start the car). Several weeks later I began having problems with the transmission. It first appeared when putting the vehicle in reverse but now it happens in almost all gears. Finally, the "service engine soon" light turned on.
I took my car to the mechanic and he said the problem is a solenoid and quote a repair (includes valve body replacement and work). He claimed that the "ABS problem" is related to the transmission issue but as I explained above the "ABS problem" predated the transmission issue. My question is, does this link between ABS and transmission make sense? Also, if I go ahead and replace the transmission valve body can I be confident that I won't have any more issues with the transmission for a while? I am concern about spending more on this car giving its current trade value (I already replaced the front suspension struts, brake pads and rotor discs and new tires).
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200. My A/C doesn't work. My dad is a retired old school mechanic and can't figure it out. The compressor turns on, on occasion, we think it's not getting power because we connected the compressor directly to the battery and it turns on fine. Think it's some type of electrical issue. Also hear a clicking sound inside the cabin when I depress the brakes when my gear shift lights are off. Sometimes they work and doors lock automatically when I put it in drive, but other times the lights don't work and I get that clicking and my doors don't lock. I believe the issue is electrical and tied together with a/c issues, but have no idea where to look.
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My car has power. Tries to start but makes a clicking noise. Now I cant even get it out of park. It says that my power steering fluid is low but didn't think that would stop it from starting and power steering seems to be OK. It is the coldest couple of days we have had and wonder if weather is a factor.
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when I turn key to start car there is a loud clicking noise somewhere behind the glove box, it quits after a while, what is the problem?
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I heard a light clicking noise at about 368-400 beats per minute coming from the engine during acceleration. It was hard to pinpoint and see if it went away since I use the engine so infrequently with pulse and glide, but it was definitely there. I believe it went away by the end of the trip, but was present closer to startup each time I drove today. I'll be able to confirm that tomorrow evening after driving more. It seemed to come from the front right of the engine compartment, i.e. from the ICE. It was not present during EV acceleration, glides, braking, or anything else besides ICE on pulse.
Background:
I just changed the oil this past weekend for the first time since buying the car. It was also my first oil change by myself ever, and I'm thus most suspicious of myself. So go ahead and ask the questions that you might feel would be too "stupid" for most people, I don't mind! I do feel confident I did everything right, a friend had shown me before, and I followed directions from PriusChat as well - but you never know.
I used a Toyota filter (90915-YZZF2) and Napa 5w-30 oil, non-synthetic, which I assumed was what the dealer had been using all those years (2007 model year, btw). I checked the dipstick after driving it the other day and the oil came up to just below the top dot as I wanted.
Mileage doesn't seem to be affected, last few days since the change probably low to mid 60 mpgs average over 150 miles. Perhaps this is something that comes up and "goes away" after some more miles?
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I just leased my Prius C on Saturday and I was wondering if the sound I hear from the climate control is normal. The sales person said it is the sound of the electric engine, but after leaving with it I now know it is only on when I have the heat or a/c on. It is like a clicking motor noise.
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I've noticed lately that my mileage and performance of my 2012 GLS has gone down. I can hear a "clicking" sound from the right side of the motor when the engine is slightly under load almost like a cam shaft that's operating without oil. I've done all the obvious things like check fluid levels and the such. My car has about 130,000km or 80000 miles on it.
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I have a 2003 Saturn Ion-3 that I bought a few months ago. It has 157,000 mile and runs great when it will start. Here is the issue: after the car has sat for several hours it seems to flood and starts hard. I end up putting the accelerator to the floor and this seems to work. I have to crank the engine repeatedly and when it catches I hold it to the floor until the engine clears (lots of chugging and white/blue smoke until it clears) and then runs just fine. If the car sits for a short period, it starts ok. The longer it sits, the harder it is to start (i.e overnight or a whole shift at work).
If the car sits for several days it starts just fine. It acts as if it floods while it sits so I changed the Coolant Temp Sensor, still acted up. I then checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (55 psi) and noticed that it lost pressure as it sat. I assumed that the injectors were leaking and had them rebuilt (by Mr Injector). The flow bench results did not show and leaking. I reinstalled them along with new spark plugs and the car started up immediately and ran/drove great. This morning was the first morning of sitting all night and it would not start again. It tries to fire but will not catch. I tired to have the CEL code read at autozone but they told me my lighter wasn't working and the couldn't do it (although it runs my GPS just fine).
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My mom has a 2002 Saturn l300 v6. She's never had any problems with it except having to get a new computer about a year ago. About 3 weeks ago she got rear ended and ever since then it has had trouble starting. The few times it did start, it wouldn't idle and died. She replaced the fuel injector, but it kept doing it.
It's been at the mechanics ever since then, and everything I've looked up says it might be the fuel pump itself, but that raises the question of wouldn't our mechanic have found it by now? I've been told that it's either wiring or the pump, but when I bring it up I'm shouted down because nobody thinks that it could be those things.
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First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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Lately my Ion has become increasingly harder to start, especially in the cold. I have found that if I depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor when I turn the key it starts easily but rumbles and smokes a little when it starts. If I do not press all the way down it won't start right away but will take 5 or 6 tries or not start at all. Otherwise the car runs fine once its started.
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Was on my way to get an oil change at my buddies shop. Started hearing a clicking sound. My climate controls no longer will respond. the Auto button is lit up but I can't turn the air off. I get hot air from the vents. When the clicking does stop the system goes back to working order. My friend checked it out and says the clicking is from the blend door motor.
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2003 Saturn Vue V. 61,000 miles. Drives ,steers and turns normally except when you do a very tight 360 circle. Tremendous grinding sound and shuddering coming from the rear of the vehicle. Return to driving a straight line and everything returns to normal. What is the issue and what would it cost to repair?
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