Saturn - Sl :: Engine Overheating And Sticky Shifter
Feb 18, 2011
I have a standard transmission 2002 Saturn SL2. While driving in 5 o'clock traffic, I came to a stop light and out of habit glanced over the gage cluster; nothing out of the ordinary. About a minute goes by before the light turns green and as I'm shifting into second gear I notice that the shifter is sticking, almost as if I didn't have the clutch in. I look back down at the gauge cluster and the Engine/Coolant light is flashing and the temperature gauge is trying to go beyond the red. I immediately pull off the road and sit in a parking lot for about 20 minutes. I start it back up and keep an eye on the gauge, and it seems to be running a little hotter than normal, but nowhere near being in the red.
Since then, I've noticed that the temperature runs warmer than what it used to (normally at the first tick mark; it now runs between the first and second tick mark), and occasionally runs right at the second mark. At first, I was thinking that the thermostat may have temporarily been sticking/not opening, causing that initial overheating. But the engine clearly runs hotter, making me wonder if it's not the thermostat, but something else. I'm good with my oil. And am wondering if it could possibly be transmission fluid; but I don't know if the sticky shifter is significantly part of the main problem, or just a result of the overheating, or possibly just a coincidence.
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My 1998 Civic coupe Si has 160,00 miles and I enjoy her today as much as I did the day I bought her new 15 years ago!Just recently the manual shifting has become heavy and "sticky". Problem popped up almost from 1 day to the next. Not gradual.Still shifts OK, and no other transmission issues.
Second issue: Pinhole in catalytic converter (according to garage). Any way to patch it? Just trying to baby her along without putting too much $ into repair.
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I've done everything imaginable to stop my adorable Saturn Sky from overheating. I've replaced the water pump (it needed it), I've replaced the entire fan assembly (ultimately not sure it needed that), had top end cleaned, then rebuilt.
The fan is not coming on when the engine gets hot. BUT, if I pull over and pull out then push back in the fuse for the fan - VOILE! the darn fan kicks in. It may work again for a few days, or it may stop again 5 miles down the road. But I can always get it running again with my little fuse "reboot." When I go to pull the fuse, if the engine is hot, I hear a clicking like a relay trying to open and close. But, there's not a fan relay on my model.
I'm almost at the point of just installing a toggle switch to manually turn on the cooling fan.
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2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?
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What part to look at? cleaned fan connector and it worked for a bit, but still overheats with ac on. 2001 4 cyl saturn...
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I have a 1994 saturn SW2 120k miles. On drives more than 20miles, car overheats. Already replaced radiator, thermostat, fan, radiator hoses, water pump, coolant reservoir and cap. Coolant is clear, not milky. Checked for exhaust gases in coolant with Block Check kit...all ok. Still overheats on longer drives. Coolant boils out of reservoir thru cap. Temp runs at about 1/2 between hot and cold on short trips.
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I own a 2003 Saturn Ion I.
Recently I noticed that the fan on the radiator does not function, resulting in overheating when using the AC. I have tested the electrical wire leading into the fan motor and found that it is putting out 14.4 volts, indicating that the wire is functioning properly and that all fuses are intact. I also hand spun the fan to see if it would turn without resistance, which it did, indicating that the motor is not jammed.
These tests lead me to believe that I may need to purchase a new fan unit and install it. Additionally I have found that there is a dual fan option for my vehicle, and I was wondering if I should purchase that instead of the standard one fan?
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I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
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I own a 2007 B6 Passat 3.6 (non 4mo) Sport with paddle shift:
Yesterday when exiting off the highway the engine just turned off when I attempted to down shift using the paddle shifter. I managed to start it again while still moving by putting it in to neutral and restarting. It started right back up and didn't seem to complain again all the way home.
This morning while driving to work, on the highway, i needed to accelerate to change lanes and pass a slow moving vehicle and the car didn't respond for possibly 2-3 seconds, it then after a few seconds, kicked down, accelerated but the engine light came on.
Once the Engine light came on the gear indicator in the dash display turned to solid blocks (as opposed to only highlighting the current gear).
Since then, the shifts have been very harsh and abrupt, when coming to a stop it seems to shift very hard in to first and doesn't seem to know how to function correctly at on/off throttle inputs.
I haven't managed to connect it to VCDs.
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I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
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I have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
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I have a 2002 Saturn L300 V-6 3.0L. The car always starts okay when it's cold, like overnight cold. After I've run it for at least 20 minutes to half an hour, then turn it off and leave it for about the same amount of time (i.e., 20 minutes to half an hour), it will sometimes, but not always, fail to turn over when I try to restart it. The battery is fine, there's plenty of juice, the starter cranks aggressively, but the engine won't fire up. My mechanic said the fuel pressure was low, about 20 lbs, when it should have been 50-70 lbs, so he replaced the fuel pump, but the problem is still there.
He also blew air through the fuel lines to test for obstructions, but there were none. Now he thinks it could be the on-board computer or a defective anti-theft device which is intermittently sending the wrong signal to the fuel pump. On one occasion when the car wouldn't turn over, he said there was 0 lb fuel pressure. Since the car starts maybe 90% of the time with no problem, it's difficult for my mechanic to work on it. He doesn't have time to drive it around town to warm it up, and I'm getting tired of going to his shop and taking the car out for a spin once or twice a day in the hope that, when I bring it back to him and we let it cool down, it won't start. What else to check?
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I have a 2002 Saturn SC2, it starts fine and runs fine for about 10 minutes. At that time it shuts off and no fire is going to the plugs. I have replaced the ignition control module and it made no difference. Once the engine shut off, I immediately replaced the icm with a new one and still no fire to the plugs. Once the car sits for a while, it will restart and continue with its vicious cycle.
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I drive a 1997 Saturn SL1, 295,000 miles. Great car. Good gas mileage, very, very low maintenance. I cleaned the engine about three years ago with an engine cleaner (Gunk?). When I turned on the engine it started to make a loud noise. The best way to describe it is a loud whining noise. It appears to be coming from the AC. When I turn on the AC the noise gets quieter (but it's still annoying). The noise does not appear to have affected the car's performance, but it is loud and annoying. What the problem is?
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So, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
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I own a 2005 Saturn Ion, automatic trans, that we have never had any serious issues with in the past.
Saturday April 7th, I was on the highway heading out of town. My engine, oil and battery lights came on and the car stopped responding to the gas pedal, I could no longer accelerate, the car was coasting. The radio was still on, I was able to use my turn signals to get off the highway and turn on my flashers on the side of the road.
Once safely off the highway, I turned the car off and attempted to turn it back on, nothing. It didn't even sound like it turned over, pretty much dead silent. Approximately 30 minutes after pulling off the tow truck showed up and took me to a Sears automotive, the "closest" mechanic to where I had gotten stuck.
At Sears, approximately an hour now after the incident, they were able to start my car to get it into the garage. I told them the same thing that I had posted above, adding that I may or not have had cruise control on at the time, and that my car clock had been slowly losing time over the past couple of years, I was now 22 minutes slow after resetting the clock about 5 months earlier.
They then checked my battery and the computer codes? They took the battery out to charge and told me that the computer had a code "P601" stored in it, something to do with the ICM. This was a computer issue and not something they could fix at Sears Automotive. They charged my battery and then told me it was still bad, and tried to sell me a battery so that they could test my alternator, because they would be "cheaper than a dealership." I asked them to just put the car back together and called another tow truck.
When taking the car out of the garage, I don't know if they had to jump it to move or not, but as they were parking it, the power steering went out in my car. They spent 10 minutes looking for a reservoir that doesn't exist because I learned later that my power steering is electric since I have an electric engine. After that fiasco I was towed to a Buick GMC dealership to deal with the computer issue.
They didn't look at the car until the following Monday, April 9th. The dealership could find nothing wrong with the car. Sears removing the battery had taken the codes out of the system, although I did give them the information sears had given me, P601- ICM. The power steering fuse was blown, but they suspected that Sears had done that by improperly jumping the car to get it out of the garage, I can't prove or disprove that.
Other than that the car started fine for them, ran fine, gave no codes, and did not cut off. I picked it up after work and have been driving it to and from work since.
This morning, Monday April 16th, the car did the same thing to me again on my way to work. I was driving on a smaller road this time, doing 45 as opposed to 65. My engine light came on first, and the car shuddered, like if you were riding with someone who's not good at driving a stick shift. Then my battery light came on. All my electronics, radio, windows, flashers, etc were still working as they were the first time this happened.
I was able to pull off the side of the road and make the necessary phone calls. After 15 minutes the car started normally when I cranked it, this being the first time I cranked it after pulling over and turning it off. I drove straight to the dealership, and they had it all day.
Again, they can find nothing wrong with the car. They got a code that says Cam Shaft, which they said is too vague to narrow down without charging a great deal of labor. The car started up, ran well, and hasn't acted up for them at all. They said they checked my connections, and added something to reduce resistance in case that was hindering it. They are at a loss what to do next unless the car gives them more specific symptoms.
I'm at a loss what to do. I don't really want to keep driving this vehicle when it suddenly cuts off on me twice in two weeks.
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How do you clear the engine codes on a 1996 Saturn SL-2? I thought disconnecting the battery for more than ten seconds did this or do I need a special tool inserted into the diagnostic port under the dash?
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Four days ago, shortly after a hurricane. I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. The lights, radio, and AC would turn on but the engine wouldn't make a sound. I left the car at my father's for four days without looking at it. I open the trunk to check the battery, and the well with the battery and spare tire is filled with water. The battery was almost completely submerged except for the top inch of the battery where the cables are connected. There is a metal connector between two cables that is completely rusted from the water. My question is, what do I need to do/get in order to get my car running again.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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Recently my wife took her car to work. While driving on the highway the car all of a sudden quit responding to pushing on the gas. As if the pedal had no affect at all. The electrical was still in tact as my wife pulled off to the side of the road and turned the car off. Before I could reach her to pick her up she had started it again and it started right up no hesitation at all. Upon dropping her off at work I came back and it started right away and I drove it to her work and she then drove it home at the end of the day with not problems. It sat in our garage for a few days and I decided to take it out to see what happens for myself. I drove it for a full day stated right up every time and it wasn't until the second day I drove it around that it did the same thing to me. Gas pedal had not response. All electrical seemed operational, still had power steering and the dash was lit. I pulled over then waited a few minutes and it fired right up and I was on my way. Wondered if its the fuel pump and how I could test that out. As I said is starts right up every time with no hesitation. Also I have fuel pressure tested it and it shows a 60 the during idle.
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My 2004 Saturn Ion, 235,000 miles, 2.2 engine is idling erratic when I turn on AC. It sounds as though the compressor is turning on and off. The air is cold then blows warm then cold etc. Is it the compressor or could it be a relay or fuse. It also overheated last week but not sure if problems are connected. I am idling car right now with AC off to see if fan comes on.
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