I have a 2002 Saturn SL with about 160k miles. She's been a great car but recently she starts to oversteer when making moderate left turns over 35 mph. It always happens when the car's weight shifts to the right side. It is predictable but it still feels unsafe to drive. Unfortunately My mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Saturn Ion stalls when I make left hand turns! The engine light comes on and the car goes into limp mode! I stop the car and wait a minute or two and it starts right back up and after driving it for a while the engine light goes out! I took it to a shop and they replaced the throttle body and ignition coil on two different occasions and my car still does the same thing!
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Ram (53,000 miles) will sometimes die while I'm making a left turn, or when I'm moving slowly in a parking lot.I get the oil change regularly and asked my mechanic to checkinto it. He. thought it has something to do with using cheaper gas, so I started buying the more expensive gas but it is still doing it. This is scary when it happens because not only do I suddenly slow down, but the power steering goes out and I have to muscle it around the turn.
View 1 RepliesI recently starting noticing a very high pitched,annoying squeak on my 2004 Century.. It's most noticeable when making left turns but can sometimes be heard when going straight or making right turns.. I'm thinking it might be the metal tab/wear sensor on the brake pads rubbing on the brake rotor but not sure, haven't looked at it yet? It doesn't turn out to be the wear sensor?
View 1 RepliesHave a 05 GLI tiptronic. Every time while making a left turn there is a LOUD vibrating/rattling sound coming from underneath my shifter. Dealership told me it was my exhaust rattling since it was larger than OEM. That doesn't sound right at all.....
View 1 RepliesI have been getting this weird bumpy feeling when making left hand turns and even sometimes when going strait on the road. It does not seem to effect the breaking for acceleration of the car. This does not happen all the time and will start and stop without any change in driving.
View 22 RepliesI'm getting a clunk sound from my Passat's front left suspension when making turns. I've found info on how to diagnose control arms and I plan to jack the car up tomorrow and check it out. But how would I diagnose a tie rod end problem?
My Passat has 53,000 miles on it.
When I fill my tank with gas I get a very strong odor of gas throughout the vehicle, what do I need to check to fix this?
Also this one is weird, but everytime I make left turns ONLY, my Jeep does a down shift but stays in Neutral longer than it should but then kicks into gear by me taking my foot off the gas pedal and reapplying. What this could be? I have made sure that my Transmission levels were fine but I am baffled what the problem is?
My wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.
I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
I have a 2003 Honda CR-V with 150,000 miles that, up til now, has been a dream car. Now, at moderate speeds (30ish) it occasionally starts vibrating like I'm driving on a very washboarded road. It immediately quits if I let up on the gas. I don't notice it at higher speeds (freeway driving) or when going very slowly. It seems to initially be brought on by hitting a bit of rough road. I think it feels like it is in the rear of the car and it seems more noticeable on the right (passenger side). We had new shocks put on the FRONT about 3-4 months ago and I think the problem coincided with that but my husband disagrees and says he noticed it before then. We took it to our usually wonderful and reliable shop and, as could be predicted, they could not get it to replicate the problem. We took it back again and they drained and replaced all the transmission fluid thinking that might be the problem. It still does it, although I think it does it a bit less. It also seems to me that the car, which never had a very smooth ride, is even stiffer and bumpier than before. What's going on? Could this be a drive train issue? Transmission? Should we have also done the rear shocks at the same time as the front?
View 4 RepliesI own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
I am planning to take my 99 Passat into the dealership to have it looked into but I thought I'd come prepared with a little bit of insight into what could be causing this problem.
The left tire vibrates terribly when making a slight left turn. When making a hard left, the vibration goes away, when driving straight, there is no vibration. There is also no vibration when making a right hand turn at all. Could it be as easy as a bad tire or faulty balancing? It seems odd that it only makes the vibration when making the turn slightly and then goes away when turning completely left.
What could be causing the vibration? I've searched the forums but have not found an answer based on the vibration only occurring during part of the turn.
2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
I've been experiencing a weird problem lately when accelerating from a stop and heading around a gradual curve while accelerating. Basically what happens is, I will be well into the gradual turn when suddenly the car oversteers in the direction of the turn. it's a bit scary, almost like the car is starting to slide, but it's just a quick moment of oversteer and then it corrects itself.
I figure it's something to do with the 4 motion and although I wouldn't call it unsafe it's certainly a bit of a shock to the system.
I have a 1998 Saturn SL1. My problem that I am having is I can start the car maybe once a day if I am lucky. About 2 minutes later it just dies.
The car has full electrical power and I can turn the starter over and fuel pump sounds like its working. I am pretty sure its not sparking.
After having my car serviced at Halvoline Xpress Lube it immediately made a noise when I turned on the heater / vent. It sounds like "grrrrrrrrrrr" and there is a vibration in the dash and a little bit of vibration in the steering wheel. It feels like the car pulls a bit when I have the vent turned to the highest setting. The higher I turn the vent, cool or heat, the louder the sound.
The work they did was:-oil change-rotate tires-pulled out two filter to show me the condition then put them back
I took it back a couple weeks later, they checked the filters, said they were fine, checked stuff, I don't know what but they seemed earnest in their efforts. They took the glove compartment apart and poked around. They couldn't understand how it was related to their work and suggested I go a mechanic and keep them posted.
It's either an amazing coincidence that when I pulled out of their garage my car developed a problem, or that they did something goofy and don't know what it is.
I have a 2004 Saturn SL2. My Engine Turns over ok, but won't start. When I turn on my ignition key, the Dash lights Start Blinking.
View 3 RepliesSo my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
View 5 RepliesOkay, I have a 2001 Saturn SC2 with 180,000 miles racked up. Lately, when I'm out driving, it sounds like a small prop plane. Yet, when I move the steering wheel just a bit to the left, the noise vanishes, until I steer back toward the center.
I'm dreading taking it to my mechanic, even though the shop is quite good. What this might be before I head in to the Temple of Doom?
My 1997 Saturn SL has had an odd overheating problem for several years now. When idling the engine starts to overheat, but the fan does not kick in until/unless I turn on the AC.( I do a lot of idling, as I work from the car a good deal.) I've had the car serviced, even had the fan specifically checked in the shop, & had the AC components changed out last year (whole other issue, barely blows cool air). But the overheating abides.
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