Saturn - Sl :: AC Compressor Won't Working / Leaking?
Mar 31, 2012
How I can tell if I have an AC leak or a compressor issue? I recently added freon and stop leak and the AC was blowing nice and cold for a week or so but now it takes a while to get cool but not cold like it was. How can you tell when you have a compressor problem?
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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There is a rattling sound that seems likie it MIGHT coming from my AC compressor or somewhere in that area when the AC is on and the car is in Drive (while stopped) or in Park but it goes away if you put the car in neutral or turn the AC off? What is the problem?
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The ac compressor on my 2003 vue cycles rather quickly after operating for several minutes. The ac blows cold inside and stays cold. When I first turn on the ac, the ac compressor stays running while the vue cools down but after several minutes of operating the ac compressor begins to cycle a few seconds on and a few seconds off. Seems to me it is cycle too frequently?
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My fiance's 2008 Saturn Astra no longer has AC. The compressor does nothing when AC is enabled. You can hear the engine bog slightly when the button is pressed so /SOMETHING/ is happening, but the compressor never budges. My first instinct was to check the freon so I picked up a kit to recharge the system. Pressure was 60psi on the upper and lower ports. I saw some people commenting about blower relay's and resistors. The HAV system and blower work...fine minus AC.
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I have owned my Saturn Outlook XR (2008) for a short 2 months. My a/c stopped working about 3 weeks ago. Replaced the blower motor and air would then blow again but the a/c still does not work. Had a mechanic look at the vehicle for me and turns out that I have that haunting saturn outlook hose rubbing together causing a leak problem that so many of you have also experienced. My low pressure line is leaking. My mechanic explained what an extensive project this is, not due to the actual parts, but, the labor to reach this hose then replace it. I am not thrilled about this problem. I do not want to be paying more money out of my pocket to fix a vehicle that I haven't owned long enough to have these kinds of expenses. This clearly is an issue in more than just my vehicle and GM is not taking responsibility for this poor placement/planning of the hoses and recalling this part.
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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2005 saturn l300 water leak and pools driver side flooring. have removed carpet and sound cushion from flooring. used garden hose to find leak source w/o luck. it has rained twice w/o leaks.
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When I took my Saturn L300 to the dealer recently for its regular oil change I was told that my right front axel seal was leaking and it will cost me $580 to replace. This seems awfully high to me. Am I getting fleeced by the GM dealer?
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I took my 2007 Saturn Aura for a scheduled oil change. They did the change and than called me into the shop to show me an oil leak. I was told that the oil pan gasket is leaking oil onto the exhaust and I could have a fire if I didn't get it replaced. The thing is that my car has been parked in the same place on my driveway every day for 5 years and has never dripped a drop of oil on the concrete. The car has only 30,000 miles and has been well maintained. How likely is it that there is a real problem with the oil pan gasket?
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I have been told my AC hose from the Compressor to the Condenser is leaking. How much time do I have to get repaired before AC stops cooling. Can I just get the hose replaced and about how much should it cost? This is a 2000 model.
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I have 2007 PT Cruiser. The air condition blows hot air. I replaced the compressor, added freon. It was back to blowing hot air within days. I replaced the compressor with another brand new compressor and again after a few days, hot air. I took it to another person today and again, your compressor is leaking freon and it needs to be replaced. I refuse to buy another compressor, what else could be the problem. I live in Texas and need air condition in my cruiser.
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Friday, 4/4/14: I have read many of the posts about this issue on this site. Didn't know this was such a widespread problem until I started doing my internet research today. Obviously there are many of us and this has been going on for a few years with this vehicle. I have had soaked floor boards twice and dealing with my third incident today(4 inches of rain last night). Have an appt with my GMC dealership on Monday. How I start this process with GMC to quickly get their attention. Obviously, I need to contact GMC first so that I can get their standard, worthless answer. But I've read I need to hire a "lemon law attorney", post my dissatisfaction on social media, contact the news media, etc. I am 62 yrs old, on disability, can't afford this inconvenience for something GMC should be RECALLING and fixing. Plus I have a small garage and this monster vehicle will not fit in it (didn't know that until after I bought it).
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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My sons 1998 nissan altima has engine coolant leaking from the air conditioning compressor my best guess is a leak in radiator has slugged the compressor and both are toast . I see there is separate cooler for ac is it possible to isolate that section while repairing so he can still drive to work (short distance less than mile) while I find replacement or is it not possible...
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I got a 2001 f150 leaking freon on the back of the compressor, can't afford to fix this summer. When I add freon should I get the freon with oil in to get oil in the system or just add regular can of freon, it took about 6 weeks before I need to add any.
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I think the top AC line that runs from the back of the compressor is leaking on my '01. It looks straightforward to replace, but I don't have any way to evacuate or recover the R134a refrigerant. Is this something that an AC place has to fix, or is there a way to do this on my own?
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Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
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I had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 has had issues with its security system for years. It "chirps" intermittently, sometimes to the point of killing the battery. I've taken to unplugging the battery when I won't be using it for a few days so that the chirping doesn't get out of control. Often I'm not able to start the car right away, because the security system has been activated somehow. When this happens I have to unlock and lock the doors until the car starts. I used to be able to improve this by using the keyless entry system, but this very recently stopped working, even though the batteries are new. The security came with the car, and was definitely not installed after market.
My car has also suffered from water damage for a long time. The trunk initially was leaking. Since then the sunroof, drivers side window and rear window have all become leaky. I have fixed those with caulking, but nobody has been able to fix the trunk leak. (really quite significant; when I lived in Portland I sometimes had to siphon out several inches of water from the trunk). My theory is that the electric system might have water damage, but I've brought the car to several mechanics, including electrical specialists, and nobody has had any answers.
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So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
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