Saturn - Sl :: 2002 - Transmission Failure / Progressively Getting Harder To Shift
May 14, 2013
I have a 2002 Saturn SL with nearly 170,000 miles on it, but the manual transmission has gone seriously wrong... I was driving today and I noticed that it was progressively getting harder and harder to shift. By the middle of the afternoon I was strong arming it. Yanking it into as well as out of gear. By around early evening I could no longer get it into gear at all. I was at a stop sign when this happened and ended up stuck there. Now here's the weird part: When I shut off the car the shifter would slide right into gear. In fact, it would go into all of the gears no problem. As soon as I started the car back up I couldn't get it into gear. So what ended up happening is that I put the trans in gear then started it and limped it home in 2nd.
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2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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My 1999 Saturn SC2 won't shift in drive. If I put in 3 it shifts and when I get going faster I can put in D. Once it gets warm it shifts in D. What causes this and how to fix it?
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Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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I have 1500m on my 6m and all of a sudden it feels like it take more effort to move the shifter from neutral to hear and vice versa. Specially first gear but the others as well.
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So, For the past week or so, I've been noticing that my clutch has been getting harder and harder to depress when I go to shift. I only have 1500 miles on the car and picked it up 3 weeks ago. When I took delivery, the cars clutch was silky smooth.
This "tightness" is almost as bad as my 6MT clutch on my old subaru (which needed to be replaced because the spring on the pressure plate tightened). What could be making the clutch feel so heavy? I'm not too familiar with the VW clutch. Is it hydraulically actuated? If so, maybe the fluid is low or leaking?
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I had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
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My 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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While in drive, transmission does not shift into the first gear (once in motion transmission shifts between 2-5 without any issues), but all 1-5 gears available while in Tiptronic mode. The check engine light is not on. Is it a transmission problem or a control/wiring issue?
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At 37 mph and transmission shifts to 5th gear a violent shift occurs. The fist time I thought that I had hit a cement block! It only happens in triptonic or if I leave the shift lever in 4th gear and exceed 55Mph. My local VW dealer said a new Transmission would cure it.
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Someone borrowed my truck and drove it with emergency break on for who knows how long. I have a 2002 f350 4x4 that won't go backwards now even if it shifts to that position. Neutral will allow forward motion but don't come out of first gear. What might be wrong?
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I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
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My sister's Grand Am has been having a shift flutter issue (between third and fourth, around 40 mph it would shift rapidly back and forth until you either forced a downshift or reached 50-55 mph) for a while now. I read a lot about it online, and all signs and the experiences of others pointed to a bad shift solenoid or pressure control solenoid. I wanted to correct the issue before it caused any damage to the transmission. I removed the transmission from the car and replaced both shift solenoids, the torque converter clutch solenoid, the pressure control solenoid, and the manifold pressure switch with new ACDelco parts. I figured I may as well replace them all while the trans was apart. I also replaced the filter and fluid, of course. I got everything back together, and now the transmission slips in reverse and overdrive no longer works. Fluid level is full according to the method of pulling the level check fill plug while hot, idling in park. I used Valvoline Maxlife fluid, which meets Dexron VI specs according to the product label. I have double and triple checked everything and can't even fathom what I could have done to cause these new symptoms to crop up.
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I have read the many blogs..streams..and complaints about the same "power steering" failure I experience every time I drive my junk ION. I have also read there is repair compensation via GM for models less than 10 years old and less than 100,000 miles. My question is, is there any cost relief if it has over 100,000 miles? Mine had close to it when I bought it and it didn't start until after it had gone over 100,000. Between the ignition passlock problem when it's cold and the power steering failure when it's hot... I will NEVER EVER buy anything Saturn or GM again.
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Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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We have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 140, 000km on it. It recently came back from front suspension work. The suspension is fine now, but we notice harder shifts in the transmission. Also, there seems to be a vibration just before shifting gears and when under load (like going up hill) seems to slip (like on ice) about once every second until the shift is made. Once the shift is made it drive smoothly until put under pressure again. Even stepping down a bit on the accelerator will cause this slipping feeling (or maybe its loss of power).
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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