Saturn - Sl :: 2002 - Grinding Noise With Each Revolution Of The Tires
Feb 13, 2011
2002 Saturn SL. My car is making "grinding" noises with each revolution of the tires. I brought it to a garage and they replaced the brake pads but the sound didn't go away. They told me it's okay, but I doubt it. On top of that, when I turn the wheel all the way there is a sound as if the front tires were touching some part of the car's body (but looking it myself, doesn't seem to be the case), and when the car moves I feel as if the car where stepping on something every time the front wheels complete one revolution.
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I have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
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I have another issue. I just started having problems when braking. Every time I brake there is thing loud grinding noise that sounds like it coming from the back tires but there isn't a squeaking noise like there is where you need new brakes what else could this be??
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I bought an 02 Elantra last August with 128,000 miles on it. The front tires make a noise at almost any speed that reminds me of a 4X4 with mud tires going down a highway. I have replaced the axles, front struts, outer tie rod ends and one irregular rim, and I will replace the rear struts this weekend. Varying the tire inflation has no effect on the noise. When I got it aligned, the mechanic told me they had to swap the front tires to get the alignment within spec, and the uneven wear should cancel out. That was 3,000 miles ago and the noise level hasn't changed. The front tires still have 5/16 of tread on them. Should I keep waiting it out, get new tires, look for some other cause, see if there's a hole in the firewall I can soundproof, or what?
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I bought a 2007 Saturn ION Coupe the end of December 2006. I have had the car 4 mos and keep experiencing a wobbling when driving between 4-10 mph (traffic). They have balanced and aligned my car 4 times since I bought the car, once a month (it needs service every month I commute 1,000 mile a week). It seems to work for a short while and then the problem continues. They have checked everything, rotors, wheels, tires, etc.
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My 2002 Saturn SL1 seems to have a rattling noise when I first start it up. At first I thought it might be the air conditioner compressor, but it continued when I turned the air conditioner off. Now I am wondering if it might be related to my fan motor, for the heater AC. When I turn it off, the rattling noise seems to go away, but not always, especially when first starting the vehicle.
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My 2002 Ford Windstar Van needs a rebuilt transmission. The chain, according to my mechanic, may quit at any time (the van makes a grinding noise going up inclines). In 2005 my van had the transmission rebuilt (it totally quit on me driving). It currently has 200, 030 miles on it. I've checked around and the best estimate for a rebuilt transmission. Is it worth keeping? Repairing? If not, do I try selling it (for what amount?)?
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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
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My car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 and recently it will make a grinding noise at 3,200 rpm (in every gear). It sounds like you touched the side of a rotating drill on a piece of metal or something like that. The mechanic said it was my clutch but my clutch isn't showing any of the tail tail signs of it needing to be replaced and frankly I don't trust the guy. Will replacing the clutch fix this noise? Could it be something completely unrelated to my clutch?
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Bought a 02 Ranger, 4.0 4x4 super cab 122,000 miles. etc Picked it up for 500 bucks because someone scrapped it along the side of a guardrail this last winter. Replaced rack and Pinion (cracked), Tie rods, Shocks, driver side knuckle and wheel bearing, and some body issues (bed is still shot so if any black short bed sitting around let me know). I've been kind of putting around all day in it, letting it used to working again. Starts right up, turns easily, I string aligned it so it goes where I want.
But as I get up to speed start at about 10MPG there is a vibration based noise coming from the front, can't pin down if its left or right. If Im going straight then turn it gets slightly more intense as I even start turning the steering wheel. The noise increases with vehicle speed. And I don't know if its separate or related, but any turn over 5-10* to the left results in a grinding sound but then I turn to about 10-15 and it gets less intense. No noise turning right.
I'm thinking a bad CV, TWO bad CVs, or a bad differential. Before I start ripping into those things, thought I'd get opinions, or hopefully experience in this area. I'm really hoping its something small and stupid. (like not getting a professional alignment)
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I have had this problem since day one. The idle seems to be very rough once you give it some gas and drive the car it runs smooth as silk. The dealer told me that is the wayit should be due to the narrow V6 with one head cylinder. I have had an 02 Passat V6 and I dont remember it having a rough idle.
My other issue is again since day one when I am moving very slow like when I am backing out of my drive way there is what I would describe as a grinding sound. It does it all the time forwards and back, all day not just the first thing in the morning. Again the dealer says it is normal.
I just had my first oil change about 2 weeks ago and was hoping these were just thing that would be addressed then but they dont seem to be better or worse always the same.
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I've got a 02 Camry with a manual. In 5th gear, cruising on highway, there's a low grinding/ rattling noise. it doesn't do it if you try to accelerate, or if you have no throttle input at all, meaning it only makes the noise when trying to keep one speed, typically around 2000-2500 rpm. If i grab the shifter and apply pressure in any direction, the noise goes away. I've owned the car for 3 years now and its always done it, and hasn't gotten any worse or changed at all. I'm experiencing no performance issues and just chalked this up to gear noise, but recently read someone else was having same issue, and everyone was clamoring on about needing new bearings.
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I've got this 02 Nissan Altima 126,000 miles. I did a front brake job on my self, new rotors and ceramic pads. Immediately after the brake job, I started hearing this horrible grinding noise when weight is shifted to the driver side. It happens when I take apply the brakes or make a right turn. When making a right turn I don't need to apply brakes to hear it. I can sometimes hear it faintly when driving normally.
I took it to my mechanic. He first inspected my brake job, disassembled the rotors and pads, applied brake grease, and reassembled everything. The problem continued. He lifted the car, and had me get in, put it in gear, accelerate, then applied brake, no noise. There is no sign of anything rubbing or grinding in the wheel assembly.
After inspecting the tie rods ends, he replaced the inner and outer on both sides. No Luck. He then replace the ceramic brake pads with regular pads which has reduced the noise but it is still there. I asked around and two other mechanics have suggested the wheel bearings, my mechanic believes this is unlikely.
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
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This car makes this grinding sound whenever you first start the car in the morning on a cold day and take a left turn. After 5 minutes it won't do it anymore. I can't tell if it's coming from the transmission but that's what one mechanic said. He said it was the transmission but he couldn't target where. His first diagnoses was the struts but that proved incorrect so I'm taking what he says with a grain of salt.
VIDEO WITH SOUND : [URL]......
This car has the notorious GM lawsuit CVT transmission..
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My wife's car has a grinding type noise (like a key being burnished on a grinding wheel, but lower in pitch). We've had our regular mechanic check the braking system and he finds no irregularities and also says that he didn't see any loose items underneath the engine area. The sound wasn't one of the ones on your excellent 'noises' list, however. The noise comes from the driver side at the front of the car. The car is 2002 Honda Accord LX with 135,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced under warranty at 70,000 miles.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 116,000 miles and over the past month the engine has shutoff as I am driving and once I park turn the key off and turn on it has started to run again. This has happened about four times and each time it has been difficult starting it after the car has stalled. The most recent time this happened when I went to restart the car, a grinding noise became apparent. The last few times that I have started the car the grinding noise would be heard only to ultimately fade away in about 15 seconds. The check engine light came on and went to get the code and it came back suggesting a problem with the camshaft position sensor, but I don't fee the noise is related to that.
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I hadn't driven my new GTI (DSG w/PP) for the last month. It was regularly started but not driven. Took it out today and noticed a knocking sound coming from the rear that could be heard every tire revolution. Distinct sound, not metal to metal as if a caliper had hung up. Noise in forward only not reverse. Nothing interfering with tire revolution. Needless I'm not driving until I get it checked out. What it could be?
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I have a 2012 L100 Saturn with just over 189K miles (yes, it's been an awesome car). In October 2012 I both sets of breaks replaced plus rotors. About 2 months after the service, I started hearing a knocking and grinding sound coming from the bottom of the car, about 80% of the time when I apply the breaks. The car does not make the sound if idle or while accelerating. The knocking seems to be loud at times and less present other times. The grinding sounds like a large wire cable is being pulled right underneath the car.
I took it back to the break place and they replaced the Master Cylinder under the warranty. The sound went away for about a month and then came back with about the same frequency. Took it back to the same place and this time they replaced the Wheel cylinder. Sound again went away, but this time came back 2 days later. I'm puzzled because for some reason the sound seems to go away and come back when the car is serviced. It;s also not consistent, but it's there. Not sure what it could be related to if not the break job. I'm bracing myself for some really bad news as this car has been a life saver since I bought it.
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We got the clutch replaced on our 1996 Saturn several weeks ago and ever since we get grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The mechanic said the synch ring was shot and it wasn't their fault...this problem did not exist before the replacement. Whether this sounds plausible and what we can do to rectify i
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