Saturn - Sl :: 2002 - Front Brake Rotor Has Unusual Wear
Feb 19, 2014
recently I replaced the front rotors and pads on my 02 Saturn SL2. I did this because there was a grinding sound coming from the front left wheel well and I had noticed a band around the rotor that looked gouged. All in all, about 30 minutes of work, following the Hanes manual. In the course of disassembling the front left caliper, I realized that the cause of the gouge in the rotor was from one of the tensioning clips on the caliper bracket. One of the flaps on the clip had bent back and was causing both the grinding sound and the gouge in the rotor. So naturally, I replaced all the tensioning clips as well. After putting everything back together, I took the car on a quick test drive around the block. The noise, while lessened, was still present. Furthermore, after I got to work this morning, I noticed that that there is the start of the same wear pattern on my brand new rotor.
What could be causing this problem to reassert itself?
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I am receiving an erroneous warning message about pad wear. I replaced pads and rotors (OEM) about 10K miles ago. I pulled both front wheels. The pads and rotors look great, as expected, and the sensors appear to fine as well, in place, wires all look good, etc.. Nothing was jammed between the pad and the rotor, no metal was touching the rotor, etc. My understanding is that there are no sensors on the rear, so that shouldn't be causing any issues.
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I had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
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Right Front Tire has excessive wear on Right INSIDE and car was pulling to the left. I rotated (or is it revolved?) my tires, and now the pulling has stopped......
OPINION: Bad tire that just wore poorly? Slight alignment issue that caused tire wear that then caused car pull? Wheel bearing issue causing tire wear? Or something else?
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I decided to get an alignment (for the first time since I took delivery of the car). I noticed some unusual wear on the inner and outer tire. I will post a before and after pic of the alignment. As you can see they were unable to correct everything.
The shop says that the prius does not have any way to correct camber in the front nor was there any way to correct the toe in the rear.
I cannot think of anything that would have messed up the rear left. The shop was saying these repairs will need either a new control arm or strut.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 128,000 miles. At the last service the mechanic pointed out that the front tires were wearing significantly on the outside. I had them do an alignment but the before numbers were hardly out of spec. Everything was in spec except the front right camber - it was right at the limit (negative). Everything else was perfect. I would have expected only significant positive camber on both sides would cause both front tires to wear on the outside, when everything else was in spec?
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So on my wives Prius which is an 2007 the rear tires are wearing more greatly on the insides that the outsides and they are wearing evenly on both the rear left and rear right inside. So not one is more worn than the other..
The tires are heavily worn, with that said the car rides extremely bumpy to the point the entire car is shaking on the freeway at 75 mph or higher. So much so it induces motion sickness which is odd for me. So also besides the alignment question, what else could be causing the insane amount of bumpiness? I balanced and rotated them yesterday but that didn't solve the issue.
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I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
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Replace front brake pads, rotors, and sensors. the front brake pad sensor was touching the rotor. Car still has brake pad lite on. Replace front sensors again just in case one was defective. Replace rear sensors, still lite is on.
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I noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
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Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
[URL]
3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
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My R32 is ~5700 miles and today I realized that Front brake discs wear out differently. Left one is OK but right one is scratched more deep and different than the left one. So they are not equal.
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I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
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I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
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I have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
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My '02 Ranger has had tire wear for a while now, and its on the inside of both front tires. I was thinking it was either toe or camber, or maybe both. I havent been able to get an alignment recently. If its the camber, should I get the camber kit from Ford?
As for the squeaking, it first happened last summer, and I sprayed WD-40 on the upper control arm bushing and it went away until last week (obvoiusly temporary). Now its back. Also happens while turning the front wheels.
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2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
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98 Ranger Front brake lines Too short! they kink in sharp turns and wear out then start to seep then eventually leak and need replacement. Checked parts references and the lines have been considered stock. Not sure if I have a 1/2 year model.
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My 2007 Prius has started making an unusual sound. At first I thought it was some kind of pump or something, but now???
When I put on the emergency brake, the brake pedal or when I put the car in park or take it out of park and put it in D, it makes a "chuck chuck chuck" sound, not high pitched, but not a low sound either. It seems to be coming from under the hood on the left side. It sounds something like a belt slipping or a pump with a squeak maybe?
It does not appear to make this noise when simply depressing the brake while driving, so I'm not sure it's the same abs actuator issue.
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97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu 3.1L Automatic that I've replaced the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets on three times in 6 years. The most recent time I think was caused by an overheating problem originally. A few weeks ago it overheated one time and boiled the coolant, but I did not let it redline on the temp-gauge. Still, the next day I found distinct evidence of coolant in the oil. After replacing the full gasket set and thermostat for good measure, I'm still getting an overheating problem. My assumption was that the coolant leaked into the oil and then when the car overheated I put only water in it temporarily which boiled somehow and probably caused more damage. This happened the first time I had a gasket problem years ago.
I'm not actually losing antifreeze that I can tell, so I know it's not the common intake manifold problem. I've checked all the hoses to make sure they're all properly secure as well and I can identify no dampness or evidence of pooling. I generally run the heat to identify if my cooling system is working correctly or is at least somewhat functioning. It never does upon start-up, but I've found that if I rev the engine to above 4,000rpms for a sustained period of time (5-10 seconds) I can achieve what seems to be flow and the heater will kick on. The temp gauge will also level out and seem to run properly. This works about 95% of the time, but I've only tested it on short drives to work and back (maybe 15 - 20 miles).
I've primed the hoses and also flushed any air from the system on multiple occasions, so I've tried to cover all my basis. One thing that I have noticed is that after revving it and getting it to function so I can at least get to my destination, the heater will run VERY hot. Like it will burn your hand if you hold it in front of the vent for more than a minute or two. Unfortunately, when it overheated the first time I just immediately replaced the gaskets because this was the solution the past two times, which held for about 2 years each, so I don't know if this new, weird, problem is my doing or is something that caused the original problem.
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