Saturn - Sl :: 2000 - Moving When Off And Parked
Nov 25, 2011
Over the past couple days my 5-speed 2000 Saturn SL1 has been doing something very strange. The other night around 11:30 pm I heard a big crash in my garage. I ran out to see what it was, and the car had moved forward about 4 feet, knocking down some boxes in the process. The car was in first gear, and had been off for at least 6 hours. The freaky thing is it moved forward against the grade of the garage. That’s right, the car was off, in first gear, with no one inside, and moved uphill on its own. A couple days later it did the same thing but with the emergency break on! It crashed into my parents garage door. The car managed to move up a steep driveway with the e-brake engaged. Again it moved about 4 feet.
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer, on a few occasions i have parked my car in my driveway which is level the next morning i come out and the car has moved about 4 foot. Its an automatic, what would cos this to happen with nobody in the car and it's in park???
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I have a 2004 Saturn VUE, 3.5 L, V6 (212 CI), AWD, with 164,000 miles that I purchased used in Michigan from a GM Dealer about a year back.
The air condition on this VUE works great as long as the vehicle is moving on the road. When in idle and parked, the cooling performance appear to get reduced and soon it will blow not so cold air until the vehicle start to move and gradually the performance will get better and perform well. How did you get it resolved?
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I have a 2009 Saturn aura and what's goin on is when I apply my brakes the car hesitates a sec then slightly jerks before moving on. It doesn't do it any other time and it will happen no matter what gear or speed I am in/going. Only when the brakes are applied......?? I just don't get it. It smooth as ever just as long as I don't touch the bake
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The horn came on solid about 10 minutes after parked. This is not alarm, as horn is blowing solid. Tried all things to reset the alarm, started engine, locks, etc. Only way to get to stop blowing was to disconnect battery. Re-connected, still blew, disconnected 5 minutes, reconnected, and was ok.
Since that time, it has started going off randomly, even when driving on road.
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I have a 2000 Grand Am GT that squeals loud. It squeals when it is parked and when I am using the gas, but usually it won't if I let off the gas while driving down the road. We have replaced the belt, the idler pulley, the belt tensioner, and got rid of the AC. My dad thinks maybe it could be the crank pulley... could that be the problem?
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I have a 2000 323i BMW and have had water leaking out of it on and off for the past few years. I have tried replacing the hose which has not worked and have been unable to find a leak. Sometimes I refill the car with water and it will be empty in a few hours and there is no clear pattern. It will lose water when it is parked but has also happened when I am driving.
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I have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
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When I park the car with the headlight switch in the "on" position, i notice that after a few minutes, the headlights turn off, but the tail lights do not; they stay on indefinitely.
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I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4L 4 cyl automatic. The car had been sitting for about 6 months and I had to replace the starter. Finally a day off, replaced starter, charged battery, the heavens opened and the angels sang when it fired right up. Let car run for about 20 minutes sounded great. Noticed that the battery light came on. Took car to give it a much needed bath and when finished, was slammed back down to earth when the car wouldn't start.
Day 2... Remove alternator and have it checked. Autozone says it's good, I replaced the serpentine belt because I noticed some small fraying in a spot. Tensioner was great. Charge up car and it starts. Try to restart it and not enough power.
Now a week later, I am thinking battery or fusible link or bad wire. I pull the battery and have AutoZone check. Battery is bad. I replaced battery and "The Pickle" started right up! Enjoying her gentle purring once again I am dragged back to reality when the alarm bell sounds and the battery light goes off again. I am now thinking fusible link and wire once again.
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My needle is, lets say, vibrating..when I am driving more than 50 kph my speedometer needle is vibrating ,it is dancing up and down.
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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My 2000 dodge caravan with the 3.3 is shuddering while in gear and not moving especially in reverse . As soon as you start going it stops . No slipping whatsoever. The van only has 130'000 miles on it .
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My wife drives a 2000 Saturn sw2 with 175K. I am out of town currently. Last night she called me and said that the car was cutting out on the interstate. The problem only occurred at almost 3000 rpm while the car was at speeds above 70 mph. Below that it was fine. Then today she called now she said that she could barely get it to 55mph. I am returning home tomorrow and am going to try to fix this in 5 hours before she needs it again. I am going to test drive it first to see if the above statements are correct. If so I am thinking it could be a failing fuel pump. I am not sure it autozone rents a tool that can measure the pressure on the fuel rail. I am thinking that this is a fuel rather than an ignition problem. Any quick diagnosis processes that could narrow down this problem quickly?
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I have a 2000 Saturn LW. It's generally been a good car. Approximately 6 months ago it would not start (would not even turn over). Had it towed, starter replaced and things seemed fine. Six weeks later, same thing. Replaced the starter again (supposedly battery was checked both times and fine). Works for another month and wouldn't start again. However, this time I couldn't get the key in. They replaced the electrical (ignition?) switch. Worked for another month or so and then wouldn't crank (as usual, would not turn over at all). Had it towed and the mechanic said the wires weren't connected well. Now 3 or 4 weeks later, almost happened again, but we did get it started on the third try and drove again to the mechanic. Works for him (of course). Says if it happens again, to move the gear handle as it might be a neutral safety switch (I don't think this is it as I'm pretty sure I tried that on a prior occasion).
It does seem to have electrical issues as the inside lights for certain periods of time will flicker. It also went through a spell where it would just cut off while going about 65 with the cruise and you hit a hill. The low power light would come on and a couple of others. It took getting a new computer? put in to get that to go away.
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2000 f150 v6... I just got the truck and was fine went to instant oil change and changed the oil used 5w30 and there filter unknown brand? now I'm getting a ticking kinda like a lifter tick?? you can hear it at idle not when moving.. Would the thicker oil be causing this? or the cheap filter is so filter should I go to? Motorcraft? bk to factory oil?
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I have a 2000 Ex and while I was walking around to let the ole lady in I leaned on the rear passenger door and it moved back and forth like a half inch. Its the only one that does it, is there an adjustment for this, either the stryker or on the hinges?
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I have a Saturn SL2, 2000, 110k miles, automatic. When the engine is cold, reverse works. After the engine warms up, reverse stops working. It doesn't start moving from being in that gear, nor does it work when I push on the gas. Shifting from First to Second is a little rough at times.
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I have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
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I have a saturn sc1 2001 and the idle is pretty high (2000rpm) what could be the problem ? i already cleaned the IAC ...
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL 1 and it takes about 20 minutes to get started and it started after the radiator was changed and I am losing coolant and I noticed a leak around the flex on the exhaust pipe could this be the starting problem?
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