We have a 2000 SL1 that started having the horn go off (continuous, not intermittent beeps). The first time it happened was early in the morning, lot of moisture in the air, and it stopped when I hit the middle of the steering wheel. The second time it happened was during the night (again a lot of moisture in the air) and my son unplugged the horn.
View 2 RepliesMy Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12=15 minute wait, I try to start again and it engages and starts. (I think the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
I am not sure if it is the same time every night like clock-work or if it's a set interval after I come home...but here is what happens:
-I come home and I turn off the power to my 2010 Prius after parking.
-I lock the car and I get that loud external "Beep"
-Around 2 to 3 hours later, I hear 4 to 5 beeps in a row from the horn. It sounds just like the beeps that are made when I unlock the car. Just a bunch of them in a row..for no reason
It is really loud and ticking off my neighbors. What would cause this? I have a dealer installed Rockledge security system.
Got a '13 FX4, sometimes my remote start works and sometimes the horn just beeps when I go through the sequence.
Am I doing something wrong, leaving a door not shut all the way etc.... Are there any parimiters where it won't remote start and just "beep" the horn?
I have a 2007 Ford F-150 King Ranch, my auto start has been acting up recently I push the start button the horn beeps, then powers up, but then don't start, up until now it has been working fine. Also when I sit in the truck and put the back of the key(black piece) near the ignition and press the start button it fires up as normal...
View 2 RepliesMy command start for 2008 explorer was installed by ford dealer couple of years ago. Now when I press remote start, horn beeps 1 time, doors lock, lights come on then it should start but instead horn beeps once again and vehicle does not start , radio and heater in vehicle run as if vehicle was started.
View 2 RepliesHorn recently stopped working. I checked the fuse, noticed it was blown. I replaced with a new fuse. Pressed the horn and it had a very short sound and then blew the fuse. What could be causing this?
View 19 RepliesSo I just got new pads and rotors for the front on my 2000 Mk IV, drove smoothly...
Then about 1 week in today, my ABS lights came on.
I turned it off, left it for about 2 hours then turned on the car again, Got a red exclamation mark that made 2 intermittent beeps together (twice), then the ABS light went off??
Still drives smoothly? faulty assembly?
After the standard alarm of my 2004 Vue sounded the horn continuously, the only way I could shut it off was to pull the horn relay. I put the horn relay back, but now the horn doesn't work. How can I get the horn to work? The service vehicle light came on after this happened.
View 1 RepliesWhat part to look at? cleaned fan connector and it worked for a bit, but still overheats with ac on. 2001 4 cyl saturn...
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my 2008 Saturn Astra hatchback with about 75,000 miles. So far this has stumped every mechanic I've taken it to. They all want to have the car for a few hours to drive it around and diagnose the problem.... which I don't want to do just yet.
Sometimes when I'm slowing down, I hear a quiet tapping/knocking coming from somewhere. The back right maybe? It's very quick, almost like a card stuck in the spokes of a bike wheel.
The strange part, though, is that the frequency doesn't change as I slow down. Whether I'm going 10 mph or 20, the frequency is exactly the same. Even stranger, sometimes it's not even there.
Some other things that might be useful: I have a manual. Pushing in the clutch doesn't change the sound when it's there. Neither does hitting the brakes. I did have a blowout on the highway about six months ago (the back right tire....which is why I first thought that's where the sound was coming from), but the sound has only appeared in the last few weeks.
I replaced the ignition key lock cylinder on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE. I performed the re-learn process by cranking the engine over, then releasing to the ON position for about 9 minutes. During the 9 minutes the SECURITY light blinked the whole time, then at the end it went solid for a few seconds, then off. On the next cranking cycle I was able to start the engine and thought all was good. But now when I open the door the car beeps as if the key is left in the ignition and the automatic locks are disabled with the door opened.What is the problem and how do I fix it?
View 1 Replies2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
GF recently purchased an 04 accent, 4 door auto, with power windows and locks and one thing that's not working is it's horn. I found the fuse box on the drivers side kick panel, was not able to find a fuse that controls the horn. Is there one that's shared with other units or something else I need to look into ?
View 8 RepliesThe horn came on solid about 10 minutes after parked. This is not alarm, as horn is blowing solid. Tried all things to reset the alarm, started engine, locks, etc. Only way to get to stop blowing was to disconnect battery. Re-connected, still blew, disconnected 5 minutes, reconnected, and was ok.
Since that time, it has started going off randomly, even when driving on road.
Since I purchased my Accent 2-3 years ago my horn hasn't worked properly. When i press in on the steering wheel (with the car off) I can hear a click noise from the engine, indicating to me that the button in the wheel isn't the culprit. So if the button in the wheel is sending a signal, but the horn only works 1 in 50 times, what might be the issue i could try? I already looked at the horn, and seems to be plugged in firmly. Not sure where else to go from here.
View 3 RepliesI inherited my Mother's 2000 Corolla CE with low mileage. I know that since the car was knew, she had the dealer check on why the horn did not blow every time she pressed it. I do not have those repair papers, so I do not know what they did to the car. Again, after each of 3 visits to the dealer, the horn would work for a few months. Finally, she gave up. Arizona does not test the horn, anyway. So, now, I am having the problem. (Also in my V90 Volvo post). Two cars with no horns.. Short of pulling out the air bag and the wires? Bad ground somewhere?
View 3 RepliesSo, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
My wife drives a 2000 Saturn sw2 with 175K. I am out of town currently. Last night she called me and said that the car was cutting out on the interstate. The problem only occurred at almost 3000 rpm while the car was at speeds above 70 mph. Below that it was fine. Then today she called now she said that she could barely get it to 55mph. I am returning home tomorrow and am going to try to fix this in 5 hours before she needs it again. I am going to test drive it first to see if the above statements are correct. If so I am thinking it could be a failing fuel pump. I am not sure it autozone rents a tool that can measure the pressure on the fuel rail. I am thinking that this is a fuel rather than an ignition problem. Any quick diagnosis processes that could narrow down this problem quickly?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 Saturn LW. It's generally been a good car. Approximately 6 months ago it would not start (would not even turn over). Had it towed, starter replaced and things seemed fine. Six weeks later, same thing. Replaced the starter again (supposedly battery was checked both times and fine). Works for another month and wouldn't start again. However, this time I couldn't get the key in. They replaced the electrical (ignition?) switch. Worked for another month or so and then wouldn't crank (as usual, would not turn over at all). Had it towed and the mechanic said the wires weren't connected well. Now 3 or 4 weeks later, almost happened again, but we did get it started on the third try and drove again to the mechanic. Works for him (of course). Says if it happens again, to move the gear handle as it might be a neutral safety switch (I don't think this is it as I'm pretty sure I tried that on a prior occasion).
It does seem to have electrical issues as the inside lights for certain periods of time will flicker. It also went through a spell where it would just cut off while going about 65 with the cruise and you hit a hill. The low power light would come on and a couple of others. It took getting a new computer? put in to get that to go away.
My poor 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS is turning into a hooptie. Or at least it sounds like one. I am due for a front brake pad change in about a month, so I'm wondering if this new noise has anything to do with it. If not, I certainly hope it's affordable!
And now to the strange noise being emitted from the front of the car. This morning, about 50 degrees, I started my engine to drop my boyfriend off at work. While idling in the parking spot, I heard a dim car horn - fog horn combo noise. A neighbor gave me a "wtf" face, and I'm sure I returned her stare with the same expression. Hoping it was something else, I drove off.
First stop light, just down the block, while idling and waiting for the light to turn green, I hear the same noise. Very embarrassing. Next light I stop at, same noise. Once the car got to half of its optimum temperature, the noise stopped and didn't return.
That is, until several hours later when I needed to go to work and restarted the car from a cool nap. Same noise.
So, what the deal is? I thought it might be fan related, as it kind of sounds like there is some rattling going on in there, too.