Saturn - Sl :: 2000 - Engine Shuts Down If Ignition Doesn't Complete Engagement
Apr 10, 2014
My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12-15 minute wait, I try to start again, it engages and starts. (I think it has a computer and the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay and re-start)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? A fix.? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12=15 minute wait, I try to start again and it engages and starts. (I think the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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I just bought a new 2015 prius a few days ago. After a couple of days of driving it around, I noticed this clunking noise that lasts about 2 seconds while the car's shutting off its gas engine when the vehicle is at a complete stop. It happens more frequently a few minutes after I started driving the car. When the car is coming to a stop and the 'EV' light is not on yet (only 'ECO' light is on), after the vehicle's made a complete stop, I start to hear this clunking noise (it almost sounds like the noise you hear when you press down your emergency break).
After this noise, I feel the vibration and hear that the gas engine's shut off. I talked to the dealership and they hopped in to hear that noise, and as always, it didn't happen. But as soon as I left the dealership, I hear it again. the car is normal when 'EV' light is on when its coming to a stop (no abnormal noise), but its only when the gas engine shuts off after the car has made a complete stop. And the noise is even louder when the vehicle is on a slope, either uphill or downhill.
I uploaded the video file ....
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So, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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I am working on a 2005 F-150 with a 5.4L 3V engine.
I had the battery disconnected doing some other work and now the Evap monitor will not complete and keep getting a P1000.
I have followed the drive cycle instructions and all the monitors have completed except the Evap monitor. Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
What would cause it to fail?
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have a 2001 saturn l200. When I have the car running for awhile, the temp gets half way and the fan comes on, but then shuts right back off and will not come on again. Recently I have replaced the radiator fan, the fan module, and the sensor. How does the car fan work? We have had to add a switch to the fan to turn it on when we have to.
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I have a 2001 saturn l200. When I have the car running for awhile, the temp gets half way and the fan comes on, but then shuts right back off and will not come on again. Recently I have replaced the radiator fan, the fan module, and the sensor. How does the car fan work? We have had to add a switch to the fan to turn it on when we have to.
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2000 6.8 v10 F250 supper duty crew cab. 4x4 high switch's on (manual lock hubs installed) but 4x4 low will not engage. Brake input/out put tested good. Trans switch Park/"N" both test good. PCM reads switch output in all modes, (dash 4x4 selector). The only other issue I am having is the Vacuum is bad ( defrost default no blend door operation). Would vacuum loss prevent 4x4 lo range engagement (with manual hubs ) or should I go to the solenoid, relays on the case/ right fender?
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
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I just bought a 2000 Saturn SC2 that had a "service engine soon" light on. I took it to the shop to get it inspected and they reset the computer and said that I needed to drive it around 100 miles to reset the computer so it would pass MO state emissions. After driving it 160 miles only two of the required have reset. I took it on the highway at 55 MPH steady for 2 miles. Actually did around 8 miles. as the shop suggested and that did not work.
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My '99 Saturn SL2 has from time to time in the past year or so had brief bouts where the engine will suddenly rev up to about 2000rpms while at a stop and/or drop down to about 650rpms combined with surging and stalling while moving. The Service Engine light would typically come on in conjunction with these spells, but then a few days later, things would be back to normal and the light would go off. The episodes seem to correspond with weather that has high humidity, but not necessarily extreme heat. Once or twice when the heat was above 90, the car quit completely and wouldn't restart for several minutes, but that was last summer.
About a month ago the car, which is normally parked in a garage, spent the whole weekend outside when we had some extreme rains (in air temps only about 60s or so). Since that weekend, the car is running frequently with the issues previously described, especially the surging and stalling while driving. It will feel like the timing of the fuel is all out of whack, will shudder and run hard, and then it will suddenly correct itself and run normally. A friend has a code reader and the codes that came up are 404 and 1404, which indicate the EGR valve. We replaced that with a new one and put in 4 new spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I believe the fuel pump is in the gas tank, so from other things I've read, a vapor lock may not be the problem since the fuel is being pushed.
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I have a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3l turbo diesel.
It's been running great but recently I've noticed an issue with starting.
When I turn the key and the engine starts when I release the key it's like the engine stops for just a second and then starts running again.
After it's started it doesn't seem to have any issues but I'm concerned and would like to nip it in the butt before it because of a real issue.
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL2, about 183,00 miles on it. For about 6 months (maybe longer) the car doesn't want to reverse unless the engine is cold. When I start the car in the morning it reverses just fine but any other time throughout the day it won't. Well, it will if I give it a ton of gas and then it reverses VERY slowly.
There appears to be enough fluid in it, although I haven't changed the transmission fluid in a very long time. It's still that pink color.
I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on this car as this is just one of many problems (although probably the most severe). Will this might be fixed by getting the fluid changed or if it's a sign of a dying transmission with no hope of recovery?
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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I turn off the key and remove it. The engine shuts down but everything else stays on, the radio, heater fan, etc. I tried to search the forum but couldn't find anything about this problem. I'm guessing there is a stuck relay or a bad ignition switch.
2000 F450 7.3 PSD automatic 4X4
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So it has happened twice now that gas will NOT go into the tank on my 2001 Saturn L200. The pump immediately shuts off and gas spills out. From some research I believe there is a kinked hose but where and why did this happen 2 months ago and then now after several fill ups between. The first time it happened the problem fixed itself after sitting for a day, I guess I'll find out today if that is the case.
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I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
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2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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