I just bought a 1997 Saturn SL2 5 speed it runs great but when shifting gears the RPM stays high while changing the gears. The man who sold it to us said it's done this ever since he's had it (2yrs) and it also burns oil in between the oil changes. I've been told so much I'm torn what to try and do to fix's the RPM to not stay so high while changing the gears.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn SL2 (automatic). A few days ago it abruptly started thumping pretty heavily when shifting gears, especially going into reverse and 4th (or possibly 5th) gear. A couple mechanics told me the transmission is going, and that it would need to be replaced (but it would cost more than the car is worth. One said that we could try replacing the computer that controls the transmission, but it would cost ~$300, and might not do any good. Another said to try Lucas Transmission Fix. I've seen mixed reviews of it online, so I'm wary. Is it a good product, or does it just briefly mask the problem? Also, I looked under the hood, and cannot tell where I would even put it.
View 12 RepliesMy car is an automatic 1997 pontiac sunfire SE. 2.4L. I drove into a parking space and the car would not shift out of drive into park, or any other gear. I called a tow truck and the guy said that the "link" had popped out of place and it needed to slip back in. He also said the high heat (it was 109 today) can warp the plastic to where it will not stay in. He showed me this link and popped it into place. I was able to get the car to shift from low to park and then to neutral but it popped out again. So I know it's not the transmission. My question is what is this "link" called so I can get a replacement for it.
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 2002 Kia Spectra. I know the IAC has needed replaced for a while but It hasn't really been a n issue at all until today.
So last night my car's transmission started to kick when shifting gears. Mostly between first and second but at other gears sometimes as well. This morning it was still kicking and I figured my transmission was going out.
However when stopped at a stop light I noticed that my car was idling rough. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't start. At least not for about 10-15 minutes. So I was wondering if the IAC could be causing the transmission to shift rough at all?
My grand am has a gnarly idle issue. It stalls to turn on and once on it has a very rough idle. When I put the car into drive it stales then just turns off. Drained the heck out of my battery so I was thinking it was an alternator issue but I did a quick test and my alternator seems to be working fine. I did manage to drive my car but once in motion, gears wouldn't shift which has me leading to thinking it can be a transmission issue.
Specs:
2000 grand am
3.4L V6 SE model
automatic
I have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
View 4 RepliesWe are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 96 saturn sl2. It was running ok, but recently it started to idle rough and it revs up when i change gears and then when i release the clutch it drops down and remains about 1200 rpm. Pretty much while I press on the brakes to stop, and press the clutch to get on neutral,the rpm shoots up and slowly goes back down.
Also when I start the car it feels like its revving, but my foot is on the brake and the car is on neutral.Also no matter how much I've driven it, I can go into first and 2nd gear w/out having to press the accelerator and it will start to move. the rpm will remain @ about 1000 to 1200. The check engine light is not on and the car seems to be using up more gas.
I'm considering changing the plugs and wires, gas filter to see if it s. I noticed oil leaking a little around the valve cover, so I may change that too.
2000 Saturn L Series Station Wagon 73,772 miles
The Check Engine Soon light was on this morning but when on highway today and at 70MPH the Service light came on and then the Reduced Power light.
Couldn't drive past 5MPH but when I turned the key off and back on the power returned but the tranny was Slamming into gears. I made it back home but where to go from here.
I got a 2000 vr6 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission. When shifting up or down through the gears it doesn't seem to like going into first and second. All the other gears seem fine. I've tried adjusting the shift cables and changing the gear lube, but nothing seems to work. I've heard of the cable bushings going bad and possibly shot motor mounts ( I'm at 135,000 miles).
View 5 Repliesi have an 06 passat in manual, to put things short i was racing a friend last year on the highway and went from 5th to 4th at 120 thinking it was 6th and let the clutch grab ...needless to say i messed up the clutch and 2nd 4th and 6th gear felt like i was shifting into oatmeal if the RPMs were too high, BUT they would still grab.
thinking i only messed up the clutch setup, i went and got a clutch masters stage fx300 stage 3 kit with the steel flywheel (plan on going big turbo by summer)
after the shop installed the clutch, im getting the same results, better grabbing from the clutch in all gears EXCEPT FOR 6TH! 6th wont engage at all
so now im thinking i actually damaged the actual gears.
Stage 2 clutch with a diesel geek short shifter. I have started noticing shifting from 2nd to 3rd is difficult. Sometimes it will go into 5th when shifting up from 2nd. Not a lot of resistance but it is more than noticeable. How do I resolve this issue? Am I hurting my clutch if I keep driving like this? Nothing is grinding at all in between shifts.
View 2 Replies2003 F250 6.0 ESOF - 4x4 and LOW lights on, TC not shifting
About the truck: 2003 F250 CCLB 6.0L 210k Miles
Heavy Duty Bulletproof Diesel Kit
Warn Front Manual Hubs (vac lines clamped/blocked)
Transfer Case Shift Motor/TCSM is off (I personally have not tested it and am still looking for what to test on it) or I will purchase a new one.
From seller: "What happened is, I accidently put it in 4x4 and when I turned the switch it would not go out. I had to limp it home slowly. When I got home I messed around with it, and could not get it to go back into 2x4. I removed the shift motor, and tested it. It tested ok. I shifted to back to 2x4 with a wrench and left it."
CURRENTLY the TCSM is off the transfer case and is in 2WD. Warn hubs are set to "FREE," seller also noted that this is how he has been driving it for quite sometime. TCSM is in 4x4 LOW, that is what I have to manually shift the transfer case to if I want to mount it up. I have been shifting it using a 14mm open end wrench and with the transmission in neutral. I have not tried turning the TCSM position manually.
Scanning using AE brings up different codes depending on transmission position and which scan is used:
P1812 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure
P1819 Transmission Neutral Safety Switch Short Circuit To Ground
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1876 Transfer Case 2 Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1865 Transfer Case Contact Plate Power Short to Ground
AE scanning for DTCs: P1832 and P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in PARK: P1812, P1832, P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in NEUTRAL: P1812, P1819, P1876
AE scanning with TCSM off: P1865, P1832, P1876
P1865 seems to be solved by simply installing the TCSM.
AE Live Data shows correct indicators for 4WD switch, showing corresponding drive mode in AE as the switch setting but nothing happens. No clunk/thud/movement. I have tried resetting the codes but the 4x4 and LOW lights both stay on. I tried it in park, neutral, engine off and engine on. I tried driving 5-10 mph to relieve any driveline wind up, I tried driving in reverse with front hubs free and locked, gave the same results in AE and no transfer case shifting.
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I
Found a thread with some fuses to check, I have checked fuses #19, 27, 31, 33, 34, 45 and 111 (with a multimeter for continuity),
Relays (first swapping the old ones, then trying new ones), I did the pinpoints from test I, and installed another GEM (same part number as mine but from a 2005 F-350)
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I led to my purchase of a used GEM, not knowing if it is good or bad, I have determined that I get the exact same codes for each AE Scan as the GEM that came with my truck.
I included a photo of my relay box, have any of you seen this type before? There is no other box in the engine bay with twin relays.
Air/Defrost switch works and routes air to switch setting. AC works, DEFROST works.
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
I want to avoid taking this to the dealer if their own service manual and diagnosis is going to have the same results as my testing.
Where do I go from here?
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
Is it normal to feel resistance and binding of gears when shifting into L or H, when regular shifter is in neutral? One Lexus dealer technician said no, a different Lexus dealer said yes, and a 20-year private transmission shop technician said yes; the "yes" technicians said its because the gears are not synchronized and will grind and bind a little when shifting into L or H on the 4 wheel drive shifter. Car is a 2007 GX 470 and runs great.
View 14 RepliesMy car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
View 7 RepliesWhen shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
View 6 RepliesSo I took delivery of my ordered PP GTI about three weeks ago, When driving under light throttle, when upshifting or downshifting amongst the first four gears, the car makes a whining/ humming noise from about 1700 to 2300RPM. I lifted the front end of the car to check things out and noticed that the left axle makes some weird sounds. I'm hoping it's a bad CV, issue with transmission (not clutch related)?
View 2 RepliesIs it ok/better/worse to skip gears while accelerating in a manual car? Example would be starting from a stop in 1st and going strait from 1st to 3rd gear. , I have a mazda 3 and i usually run 1st up to 3500 rpm or so and when i hit 3rd its around 1400 when I let the clutch out.
View 13 RepliesWe got the clutch replaced on our 1996 Saturn several weeks ago and ever since we get grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The mechanic said the synch ring was shot and it wasn't their fault...this problem did not exist before the replacement. Whether this sounds plausible and what we can do to rectify i
View 18 Replies