Saturn - Sl :: 1995 - Rod Knock / Humming / Clanking?
Mar 11, 2011
My poor baby just developed a rod knock. The noise usually is faint and only when accelerating slightly. I had one bout of very loud vibrating "humming" and clanking. I need to drive to NH from WY (2500 miles). Is there a chance this noise could be something else? How can I prolong the life of the car to get home? I hear cars can last anywhere from 1 to 100,000 more miles with this issue. I am hoping for the latter. She's a 95 Saturn SL1 and I love her, but I understand her time has come.
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I am trying to install the upper chains on my sentra. The colored links will not align onto the sprocket marks. They are off by a link. I know there are 16 links across the top and 16 links from the exhaust sprocket to the idler sprocket. However, it seems,the camshaft knock pin on the intake sprocket is out of alignment. Both camshafts are a TDC; intake lobe facing up and facing firewall at horizontal, exhaust love up and horizontal facing grill. The exhaust camshaft sprocket is at 1130; the intake VTC knock pin is above the 9 o'clock mark. The Haynes book and other sources, say the knock pin on the intake side should be below the the 9 mark by about 10-11 degrees and for the exhaust side at 12. Do I need to reset the cam shaft? Can it be done without totally screwing everything up?
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I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
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I have a 95 Saturn SL2 4 Cyl DOHC with 196k miles. This engine however has about 140k. Yesterday I was driving to work and it stalled and now will not start. It gives one attempt to crank, a single "err" sound about half a second long and then I get nothing. The radio still comes on and the dash lights work, though I don't believe all of them work to give the correct indications. The battery is not the problem. What may cause this?
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I had a mechanic do a diagnostic on the battery, alternator, etc. on Monday and he couldn't find a thing wrong. I drove it home without a worry. Last nite, it wouldn't start. It reminded me of what used to be called (or still is called?) "flooded." My '95 Saturn SL2 cranked but never kicked in and/or turned over to start. This morning, however, it turned over right away, albeit very sluggishly. What's wrong? Bad gasoline?
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The gas pump keeps shutting off when I try to fill my '95 Saturn, like it would when the tank is full, even when the tank is empty. This is a recent phenomenon, and it does it at every gas pump. I have to keep pulling the handle to get gas in the tank. I took off the filler tube and checked both it and the vent line. Both are clear. What could be causing this?
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I have a 1995 Saturn SL with 131,000 miles. It is a good car, and still pushes 40 mpg. The problem is that I have developed an antifreeze leak. I noticed it last weekend, and have had to add antifreeze twice. It appears to be leaking on the drivers side under the car, but the reservoir is on the passenger side. I have not been able to locate the exact leak.
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My '95 Saturn has a little bit of smoke coming out the sides of its hood. I've never cleaned the engine and was wondering if there were any good engine cleaners on the market? (I'm assuming it should clean hoses and whatever else - belts, I guess I'll leave them alone for now as I don't hear any noise indicating slippage.) The car is driveable but with summer coming up I don't want to be stranded with an engine on fire.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
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Ok I'm new here but I'll keep it simple. Driving around nyc (crazy winter weather lately) car started making a clanking noise every so often from the hood. (note it was getting harder to steer i have awd) Pulled over, it looked fine, kept driving, all of a sudden few blocks later a LOUD metal clashing noise came from under the hood. Pulled over turned the car off. Now the car starts fine, but the car makes that noise every time i shift to Forward/Reverse. Neutral is fine. Tranny went out? The car wont move....
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Sometimes when I shift from first to second and second to third I hear a clanking noise coming from under the car. It happens when I move the stick and clutch pedal is fully depressed. Doesn't happen all the time and doesn't happen in gears 4-6. Something I should be worried about? Car is stock and has about 1k miles. It's been doing this since I bought it.
Also get a deeper boom noise coming from back sometimes when depressing clutch petal when under boost. Think this is normal tho? My BMW used to do the same thing.
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So I always have the radio on so I rarely hear subtle noise like this, but lately I have tried to track down this noise I have been hearing.
Every time I back out of my garage, I would obviously have it from Park to Reverse...when I put it in D from R....there is clunking noise right after the first gear...
It goes first gear, than this clanking noise then 2nd gear....It almost sounds like a motor mount? I hope its something not too bad as a mount.
It only happens when engine is cold and it seems to only happen that one time I go from 1 to 2 right after R..
It's sound like a grinding metal but real quick...like something crushing.
I have done ATF flush at 30, 60, and 90; the 90k was done just about two months ago.
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I've been noticing a metal type 'clanking' sound whenever I am gently accelerating up a hill on my 2.4L.
It doesn't happen all the time though. It's not the usual GDI ticking sound. It can be heard when the windows are open but yet I can not tell where the sound is coming from. It doesn't happen enough that I can replicate it so I haven't taken it in for a check. The car drives fine though.
Sounds when going up a hill? Not sure if it's from the engine or from the transmission getting confused trying to change to the right gear. Perhaps the sound is just normal...
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I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It has 108.5K miles on it. This past winter I had to have the battery replaced and the throttle serviced, invloving a tow in the depths of the polar vortex. Now in the rear right wheel I hear a clanking sound when I go over a pot hole or bump. Pot holes are hard to avoid after the winter we had.
Speed bumps are no problem. I know it is only the right rear tire because I have tested the other wheels going over pot holes, they do not make any noise. The noise happens if I am at speed or rolling over bump at a light or in a parking lot. It is due for an inspection at the end of this month and I would like to make a suggestion to the mechanic when I take it in.
My questions are: What is making the noise? Is it worth it to keep the car after I fix it or should I start looking for another? If I do look for another car what should I consider? I have two sons and we are outdoors people and would need something similar in ruggedness. Also the AC has not worked for over a year.
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Just want to share a problem I recently noticed on my Tiguan. Its a 2010 4motion I bought March last year and currently has 19000km.
Lately I noticed it makes a clanking sound in the front area as I accelerate off a right turn. It always does it on right turns and on rare occasions on left turns as well.
It doesn't do it if I turn right coming from a complete stop and happens only when I slow down coming up to a right turn and it makes the sound as I accelerate.
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My girlfriend's 2005 Jetta 2.0 overheated and then broke down after making some pretty awful clanking noises. Now it will not start. I'm going to be doing the repairs myself (and learning a lot along the way).
The car will not start. When I try to start it, it makes a 'whining' noise, which I'm assuming is the starter. This is not the first repair I've done on her car. She wants to get rid of it, but now that I've done so much work on it, I've grown a bit attached to it. Plus I think I can save her a bunch of money in the long run If I fix this myself. Here's where I am so far:
I removed the cover over the camshaft pulley and had a look while my SO turned the key to try to start the car. I noticed a couple things:
1. There are no teeth on the timing belt.
2. The camshaft pulley still turns, but not continuously. It turns a little then stops, and then tries again. (Engine not seized?)
I have ordered a code reader which should be here in a couple days. With that I'm hoping to check if there's a compression problem. If so, I'm under the impression that that would indicate a blown head gasket, or bent valves. I checked the oil to see if it looks milky and It still looks like regular oil.
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I'm having 06 GS300. Just got the car about 2 months ago with 108,000k / 1 owner and she rides like a champ and I love this car! I want to do some preventive maintenance on her so she can keep me riding in style for years to come. The few things that I have noticed are as follows.....
1. Clanking sound in front end suspension when I roll over small bumps. It does not happen all the time, but it is noticeable. Almost sounds like a loose center cap on a set of rims. That's the sound I liken it to. Sounds like two pieces of metal hitting together. I was thinking some bushings maybe.
2. Squeaking coming from my front drivers side when turning the wheel while backing out of driveway or driving into driveway and when negotiating changes in the road while driving. Not very loud.
3. Suspension seems a little flat and I feel as though the struts and shocks need to be replaced. I'm wanting to lower it to fill the wheel wells and add a set on 20' rims offset 9.5 on front 10 on the back.
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I noticed this sound on Thursday, I couldn't replicate the issue at first, but it's getting worse. I can now replicate it almost any time I get into boost in a higher gear (4th, 5th mainly). Partial throttle, usually starts around 3,000 RPMs. Can't quite tell where it's coming from, but it's a bit concerning. I've got 16,000 miles on it with no mods (DSG gti). It'll be going to the dealer next week for sure, but what it could be? Kind of afraid to be driving it, but my dealer is closed until Monday and I wont be able to get over there until the afternoon.
Sound starts at about 6 seconds into the video (it's quiet, but you can hear it well if your volume is up), turbo starts spooling up at about 4 seconds. The car has a slight hesitation when the noise happens, but it's not violent. No CEL.
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I just had some H&R springs installed and my front suspension is making a funny noise.
It sounds like the front springs are clanking around..
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I'm driving a 2002 Chevy Prizm (123k miles) and when I drive over bumps in the road or sewers etc. there is a clanking sound but it only happens on the front right side.I've purposely driven over the same bumps in my parking lot with the left side and it's fine.I recently had the engine mount replaced and the rear sway bar link on the right side replaced.This problem has been going on for well over a year now,maybe even 2.In this time I've also had the brake pads/rotors replaced and checked at a different shop to make sure that wasn't the noise.I drive typically 10-12k miles a year.This has been a problem for at least 15k miles if not more.
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