I have a 1995 Saturn SL with 131,000 miles. It is a good car, and still pushes 40 mpg. The problem is that I have developed an antifreeze leak. I noticed it last weekend, and have had to add antifreeze twice. It appears to be leaking on the drivers side under the car, but the reservoir is on the passenger side. I have not been able to locate the exact leak.
View 10 RepliesI drive a 2000 Saturn LS1. My current problem is that every time I run the A/C for an extended period of time water soaks my driver's side front floorboard, with a little bit (but not much) making the passenger side floorboard damp. A friend who is a pretty decent mechanic told me my heater core was busted and causing the water leak, so we bypassed the heater core. The next time I ran the A/C for over two hours, the water came back. I'm 90% sure the actual cause of the water leak is my A/C drain being clogged. What can I do to fix it? Also, why does this happen only on long trips?
View 5 RepliesMy drivers side power window does not work as if its getting no electricity. I bought a new regulator, plugged it in and it still does not work. I bought the 4 switch console, replaced it and still it does not work. The 3 other windows work though.
I checked the fuse, its fine. I am wondering where the electrical current could be stopped. Also, where could I get a schematic of the window pins so I can check the voltages and what each pin does?
I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 standard. It's been great with very little need for repairs beyond routine maintenance. In the last two weeks it has started an odd squealing that I can't pin point.
While driving along all of a sudden a squealing sound will emanate from what seems like the driver's side firewall area. Acceleration or braking does not seem to change it, nor does adjusting the speed of the hot air blower up or down.
It doesn't sound like a wheel scraping or anything like that. The best way I can describe it is it sounds like what happens if a speed-o-meter cable needs lubricated (but of course there is none of this vehicle).
My drivers front signal does not work. its not the bulb. took headlight assembly out and then the passanger side did not work and the drivers side did. check passenger side. now it switched again. now drivers side is out and passenger side works. both parking lights work fine. no clue what's going on
View 2 RepliesInfo: 2003 Ion-1 165k+ miles
I'm hearing a clunking/knocking noise in my Ion that sounds like the front driver side. It's most audible starting about 30 mph. It grows louder as I drive faster and the rate of clunking/knocking is relative to the speed I am driving. It doesn't change when I push in the clutch or when I'm in a different gear. It does not happen when I rev my engine in neutral. I even shut off my car while moving in a parking lot and no change. The sound changes when I turn (sounds like a more muffled/dull sound but still loud if that makes sense), and in my mind it seems to sound worse when I'm turning right than left.
I noticed the noise on Thursday of last week. It was at the point where I had to have my radio off to notice the noise. Since then it has grown louder and as of yesterday is now overpowering my radio when at reasonable volume.
I just replaced both the driver and passenger wheel bearing in the last 18 months, and I just got new Tier-3 Cooper tires 3 months ago. (I wouldn't think the bearing would knock, but just as history fyi.) I was convinced by the troubleshooting guide in my Haynes manual that it was either the inner or outer CV joint so I replaced the whole Driver side CV Axle and topped off the Tranny Fluid with Dexron-III. No dice. I thought there's a chance it could be my new tires, so I Rotated the tires on the left side F->B/B->F as well and the noise did not seem to change. Spinning the tires by hand while up on my jack stands does not seem to tell me anything (I'm guessing I'd have to have them spinning at about 20/30mph to hear anything).
My next idea at this point is to put the front end up on jack stands and have someone put my car in gear and give it a little gas while I stand nearby and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. I'm a little leery about this one, and I'm not even sure if it's going to make the noise when not under load anyway.
I have an '07 Saturn Relay. The drivers side heated seat has quit working, the passenger side works fine. When I turn the warmer switch on, the switch lights up but the seat never gets warm on the high or low mode of the switch. After a while the light on the switch goes off, it used to stay on all the time. What could be wrong and how can I check it?
View 3 RepliesI have a '95 BMW 325. The driver's seat reclined and will not come back up... not digging the gangsta posture or the extra ab workout to sit up straight (luckily I don't have to drive very far at the moment). The motor to go back seems to work (obviously) but makes no noise when the button is pushed to move it back up. What do I have to do to fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Saturn Vue and if drive with the sunroof open and the driver side window open I get periodic thumps or knocks from below the front seats or the dashboard (not really sure where it is coming from).
If I open additional windows or close the driver side window it goes away. I am sure it is an air flow issue.
My 1995 C3500 has a 60/40 bench seat, both adjusting knobs on driver and passenger side (to recline and pull forward for rear seat access) are missing. I've tried the manufacturer and these items are discontinued. Where I can find them or what would be compatible from another vehicle?
View 1 RepliesA retired friend of mine has a 1995 Buick Century with a busted head gasket. Oil is leaking and mixing with the antifreeze. It has roughly 140,000 miles. At the moment he does take it on short trips around the neighborhood.
He has maintained it religiously. It has new brakes, etc. And two years ago he had a rebuilt transmission installed. He still likes the car. And aside from the head gasket everything else runs well on it. Would it be worth fixing? Installing a rebuilt engine?
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE and ...My driver's side door locked up and won't open from the outside or from the inside! Here are the problems:
1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.
2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!
3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.
4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!
Greetings from the desert of the SW. I have a 1995 Buick Regal I inherited from my Mom when she passed away several years ago. It had low mileage at the time so when things started going wrong, I replaced things like a rusted gas tank, head gasket, thermostat, and belts and the car got me from the Midwest to the Southwest. It now has 105K miles and I've started to smell antifreeze when I drive. The temperature gauge needle will move from the middle line towards hot but never all the way to hot when the car is idling.
As soon as I get moving again, the temperature indicator moves back down to the middle line of the gauge. The anti-freeze level in the 'jug' is fine and the level in the radiator is ok too. I'm wondering if there might be a problem with the thermostat? Unfortunately I live in an area where there aren't any "real" car mechanic garages to take it to for a check up. I'm planning a trip to Phoenix in a couple of weeks which is 5 hrs away. Since antifreeze isn't pouring out of somewhere, I'm going to drive it and hope I make it there and back again.
I have a 1995 Chevy k1500 Silverado Z71, I am having problems with my tail lights where when my headlights are on and I hit the breaks the driver side tail light completely turns off, if I use the left blinker it blinks very fast up till I hit the breaks. When my headlights are off they still don't work properly but legal enough, the left blinker blinks in between fast and slow and when I use the brakes the left side works but very dim, the wiring is all original never tampered with, all I did was put aftermarket tail light covers on it which shouldn't affect anything. The problem usually comes and goes but this last time it lasted for 2 months and now everything works perfect, the problem will be back and I'm afraid I'll run out of luck and a cop will finally notice it.
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
View 3 RepliesToday my driver side seat belt got locked in the retracted position for no reason. I drove the truck to work, no issues with the seat belt, but when I got in to go get some lunch, I went to put the belt on and it moves about 2-3 inches out of the retractor and locks.
The other issue I'm having, is that I can't get the retractor cover off to see if theres something inside locking the belt or if it is going to need to be replaced.
How to get the cover off and if possible, fix the belt without replacing it.
Could the constant wobble be caused from a bad wheel bearing? The wobbling and vibration gets really bad and it try's to setup an insistent shaking & vibrating at 35mph and I have to slow down to around 18 - 20mph to make it calm down. It sounds and feels like it wants to turn into the 'death wobble thing'. It is coming from the drivers side and after removing the drivers side front wheel, I've noticed the wheel bearing grease has all squished out all around the bearing on the inside of the bearing where the axle enters the bearing right after the ribbed boot. See the attached video. Does this grease coming out all over indicate that the wheel bearing is completely blown out thereby causing this extreme wobble and vibration?
Or could it be a from a combination of a worn tire on that side (which it has) and worn tie rods, ball joints, etc? ...after all the car is 19 years old.
I also have a problem with the heater blower - it does not work at any speed, doesn't even turn on. I can feel heat coming up into the car defrost and vents, but without the assistance of the blower. I can hear the relay click when I turn the heat on and off, and I already put in a new blower motor resistor. Could it be the fan switch itself? Or could the blower motor be blown? The fuses have been checked and are all good.
I've noticed my oil level dropping very slowly, but more rapidly than normal. It seems to have picked up a bit recently and when I was at a friend's house and parked in his garage, in a half hour I had two nickle-sized oil spots under my car. They are more towards the driver side. The spots had some space in between them, which leads me to believe the oil is coming from up above and it is hitting something on the way down to send it in separate directions.
***In a month's time (2k miles) I was at the min indicator on the dip stick***
i have a strange leak under my driverside, im not sure if its an oil leak or what.
View 6 RepliesI have a 95 grand am that has a leak on the driver side. Every time I get in the car there seems to be water under my floor mat. I have already replaced the heater core on the vehicle because it did go bad. But this liquid is just water. It doesn't have any odor other then a smell of wet dog kinda.. I have perfect pressure on all my gauges and all my fluids under the hood are at the right level. What is going on with my car?
All i can think of is that i did drill a little 1/2in hole to run my power wire for my subs. other than that everything else is stock. Also there is no water on the passenger side, just the drivers side. I noticed when it rains a lot more water seems to be evident then before the rain.
I am getting a leak in both the drivers side and passenger side when it rains (by my feet).
I searched on the forum and it seems most people with a water leak tend to be from the A/C hose, but mine is not related to A/C since I can run air con all day and no water appears, but when it rains heavy I get leaks on both sides of the car.
I opened the hood and checked out the section under the windshield wipers (drainage area) to see if there was any debris, but it was clean - even the drain hole was clear.
I was thinking perhaps the seal between the windshield and the plastic section that is used to move the water might be leaking, as I noticed one area was slightly torn, but it was very, very small. Perhaps an adhesive to firmly attach the plastic drainage to windshield?