Saturn - Sl :: 1994 - Engine Heats Up
May 18, 2014
I have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
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My Ford Ranger has an intermittent problem with rough or no starts (usually when hot) for 2 years now. Numerous mechanics and no one can solve the issue - the CEL is on, sometimes engine will sputter, run rough and go really slow if I try to press on gas (almost like flooding out) but then it will lurch, CEL goes off, and runs great. Worse when hot outside or after driving - sometimes no start at all, but after many attempts, or once cool it will turn over. Had crank sensor replaced, still have issue - could it be failing fuel pump?
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I recently traded my mk1 for a 2001 jetta vr6 and though it was running fine the first few days, it now seems to die when the engine heats up. The check engine light and battery light turn on when it dies but turn back off when it cools down. I ruled out the battery variable by getting a brand new one (old one was 5 years old anyway) and the alternator is reading healthy voltages.
I've seen a lot about the crank position sensor (engine speed sensor) and I suspected that was my problem so I took it to an auto parts store and waited for it to die to pull the codes. The codes were P0201, P0205, P0203, P0206, P0444, P1473(?), P0418, and P0413.
The first ones said "fuel injector open circuit" and the others were all saying something about the evap system. I was wondering if these codes related to the crank position sensor or if there's something else I need to worry about. I may have stepped a little bit out of my league with this car and I'm at a dead end.
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So my temporary solution has been taking the gas cap off for 10-15 seconds, I suppose so that the tank can release any excess pressure. Then the car starts fine. This has worked pretty much every time. If I don't do this I could end up waiting for about 15 minutes before the car starts up again. They must be related. Is there anyway that the tank pressure isn't being vented properly?
I've replaced the thermostat, the ect sensor, the crank sensor, the fuel assembly, I've cleaned the injectors and replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
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We are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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I have a 1994 saturn SW2 120k miles. On drives more than 20miles, car overheats. Already replaced radiator, thermostat, fan, radiator hoses, water pump, coolant reservoir and cap. Coolant is clear, not milky. Checked for exhaust gases in coolant with Block Check kit...all ok. Still overheats on longer drives. Coolant boils out of reservoir thru cap. Temp runs at about 1/2 between hot and cold on short trips.
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When I accelerate above 2000 RPM, a rattling noise (almost like when a kettle is sitting atop the stove and the water is boiling) comes from under the hood. The sound does not get louder as I accelerate above 2000 RPM (i.e. the sound is constant as long as the engine is above 2000 RPM). I took it to the mechanic, he said that the serpentine belt assembly needed tightening but that did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm concerned it might be my timing chain. As soon as the engine decelerates below 2000 RPM (say when I put the car in neutral) the noise disappears. It is a 1994 Saturn SL2, manual transmission.
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This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC w/170K miles. When engine heats up, oil pressure light comes on, but only when RPM fall below 1500 or at idle. There is a burnt smell sometimes after driving the car. I do not see froth or coolant in the oil. Car burns a little oil, but no more than it has been for the last 50K miles. Just had oil and filter changed 300 miles ago; I was using 10W-30 but I believe the mechanic used 5W-30. (Also, if I drive more than 45 minutes, the "low coolant" light comes on-- however, the engine is not overheating, and the radiator/reservoir are full.) What part(s) I should order first? Oil pressure sensor? Oil pump? (If at all possible, I need to repair myself, as I simply cannot afford my mechanic's hourly rates right now.)
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I drive a 94 Saturn SL1 as a part-time delivery driver for a pizza shop. Recently I bottomed out on someone's driveway. I could hear the bottom of my car scraping against the asphalt. It took several tries (in my 5-speed) to free myself from this trap. Since then I've been hearing a pretty loud "clicking" noise from the passenger side of the car every time I make a turn, where a small turn or a big turn. My mechanic replaced the left axle and the right boot, saying that both were defective. However I still hear the noise. What can I do??
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My 96 chevy s10 will not start after it heats up when you turn the key dash lights come on but starter will not turn over engine i have to wait about an hour i have replaced the ignition switch, starter and ignition control module....
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I am getting a bunch of codes...
P2293
P0300
P0507
P0087
P2187
I am trying to make my car stop idling up and down when it is warm(it does not happen when its cold). Need to fixing my car without replacing an engine.
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When it heats up and expands, I often hear a faint "pop" from the muffler. Same thing when I shut the car off and it cools down and contracts. Kind of like denting a pop can with your thumb.
Doesn't really bother me, just curious. It's kind of a funny quirk. Will try to take a video clip of it. Usually does it within 30 seconds of shutting it down.
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I have a 1992 jeep Cherokee sport that is giving me quite a headache & it seems to be getting worse. My jeep has 272,000 miles on it. Bought it used almost 5 yrs ago. Anyways, starting back in april when it started to get warm here in Pennsylvania, it started to do this thing where you'd be driving it at 45mph, the tac meter (thing that reads RPM) starting to bounce up n' down from 800rpm to roughly 1500rpm. It would bounce like that for every 2 secs while driving. Now, when i went to slow down to roughly 35mph & slower then that, it would begin to spit, sputter, jerk, & carry on & it shut off on me once!
It seemed like it got a mind of it's own too. When I come to a stop, it seems like it wants to give it more gas!!! There are acouple of times that I almost didn't get stopped & almost rear ended a couple of cars!! When you go to park it & let it run, it sounds like someone is pushing down on the gas & letting off of it every 3 secs. Again, it would go from 0rpm to 1200rpm then keep doing that til you shut it off. If you shut it off & leave it set for about an hr then, it'll run just fine for about an hr or so & then, begin to mess up!!
So far, I've changed, the plugs, plug wires, dist cap/rotor, 02 sensor, swapped a MAP sensor off of my moms jeep, (no change there) The last thing I just bought was a Ignition coil. Mine had cracks in it so, I thought it might of been that. NOPE!!! Still messes up. It seems like the hotter it gets outside, the quicker it wants to mess up. I've even got a can of carb cleaner & sprayed every vac line/hose that I can find. No change!!
One more thing. On cold/cool mornings, it'll start up & run just fine even with the bad coil that was on there.. No problems.
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When in the mountains our van heats up, and our mechanic doesn't know what to suggest.
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I have searched a good bit on this and not come up with anything. I am focused on not driving the car hard until it is really up to operating temp. I came from a B6 S4 where this is really critical. So I want to install an oil temp gauge since the coolant heats up faster than the oil and the oil temp is what matters.
My question is where should the sender be located? Can I use something like the banjo bolt that people advertise as a place for oil pressure? Is there another good place for the sender that is not the oil drain plug?
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I have had my Accent for 2 years now and has 51000 miles on it. i just got oil coolant and trans fluid changed. about 20000 miles prior, i noticed a clicking. after the car heats up, it doesnt really happen. im thinking its my axle
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I've noticed that my 2012 Passat TDI heats up a bit when going over a steep hill or mountain pass. When driving up steep hills I notice that the temp gauge climbs from the dummy position 190* to about 200*. Once I crest the hill the temp will go down and it won't go up again unless I go up another hill. Is this normal? I had assumed that the temp gauge was a dummy gauge like in most cars so seeing the temp actually climb has me concerned.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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