I have a 2002 saturn l series and we rebuilt the radiator because it had oil in it and know the car wont start but, their is no water in the oil, is it possible that the oil cooler broke.
View 3 RepliesI just put a new hydraulic system and clutch in my brothers 2002 Saturn sl1. Now we tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Just barely clicked a few times at the starter. I tried jumping it and checked all the connections I could think of that came off while doing the clutch. Nothing. So as I was pulling him home from the shop I had him try to jump it at a slow speed and what do you know fires right up. When we got it home . Turned it off and again nothing it just clicks. So my question is would it be the starter , maybe battery cuz it had a terrible looking ground connection or is something else misaligned on the flywheel. I wouldn't think so since it started and all the gears worked. Its a manual obviously.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn sl. Within the past two weeks I've been having issues with my car needing jumped to start. I've replaced the starter last year. The battery is only a few months old and have had the alternator checked. I put my car in neutral and my car died...
View 1 RepliesI went to unscrew the radiator drain plug but the head broke right off leaving the rest of it inside.
I drilled out a little bit of it so I could drain the coolant and bough a replacement plug but there are still pieces stuck inside and I cant get them out.
Should I just drill out the remaining pieces or is there a better way to get them out?
My upper radiator outlet broke off when we were removing the upper hose(plastic tank) . is there any way to repair this ? I was laid off and cant afford a new radiator right now. but with it being the outlet I don't hold much hope...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Saturn SL2. My Engine Turns over ok, but won't start. When I turn on my ignition key, the Dash lights Start Blinking.
View 3 RepliesI thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
View 14 RepliesI have an 03 f150 supercrew that had a 4.6L. I am installing a 3.9 Cummins diesel. I will have a separately mounted transmission cooler. I'm using the stock radiator as these engines run cool. It has a transmission cooler built into it. If i just leave the fitting loose, will it cause me any problems. It is a plastic can on each end and i suppose it to have contact with the radiator passages.
View 7 RepliesHad a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
View 2 RepliesI have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
View 14 RepliesI decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
View 5 RepliesI've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carol, 110K miles, 3.4L. How to remove the transmission cooler line that connects to the radiator. Can't seem to break the bolt loose that screws into the radiator. Not sure whether this is a quick connect fitting or not! it definitely doesn't seems like it. Also having problems removing the fan shroud. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Should this be remove prior to removing the cooler line?
View 12 RepliesWhat part to look at? cleaned fan connector and it worked for a bit, but still overheats with ac on. 2001 4 cyl saturn...
View 1 RepliesI own a 2003 Saturn Ion I.
Recently I noticed that the fan on the radiator does not function, resulting in overheating when using the AC. I have tested the electrical wire leading into the fan motor and found that it is putting out 14.4 volts, indicating that the wire is functioning properly and that all fuses are intact. I also hand spun the fan to see if it would turn without resistance, which it did, indicating that the motor is not jammed.
These tests lead me to believe that I may need to purchase a new fan unit and install it. Additionally I have found that there is a dual fan option for my vehicle, and I was wondering if I should purchase that instead of the standard one fan?
I have a 1995 Saturn SC2, stick shift, 58,000 miles. Occasionally when I am driving, both the engine light and radiator lights start blinking on and off, the radio goes off and the wipers do not work. When I stop the car and start it again it stops. I don't know if the lights are off then also. I was told by my mechanic that all of those are on different circuits and he is puzzled. Of course it doesn't ever happen when I can conveniently drive to the mechanic's shop. Otherwise this car drives very well except the AC just quit . . a broken pump I was told. Lots of miles left on this car but this problem is driving me crazy--I think my mechanical is skeptical.
View 2 RepliesAbout a month ago my van did the thing where it dumped four quarts of trans oil onto the exhaust creating an awesome smoke screen. I would like to avoid this happening again. I plan on adding a second trans cooler in series with the factory one. If the trans fluid goes through the radiator or trans cooler first?
View 3 RepliesChecked icm and is good, replaced coil and still no spark. Issues be gan when about 700 miles ago rotor button broke while driving??? Replaced button cap wires and plugs. Engine fired right up. Ran 700 miles and rotor button broke for 2nd time. This time replaced and will turn over but not crank. That's when I checked icm and changed coil. what should i check now?? 1993 Ranger 3.0 ... Truck has 199,800 miles. Top end was redone at 140,000.
View 10 RepliesI bought a set of Ranger seats for my 1957 Ford project. My question is the drivers side seat reclining mechanism is broke. I believe the seats are out of an STX or sport model, they have a slide out bolster and power lumbar and side bolsters.
Where to get a replacement mechanism. The mechanism works the handle is busted off. It is from an extra cab so the handle is a two way for the driver and or if anyone in the back wanted to use it. I think they may be from a 1992, only say this because I had one backin the day with these kind of seats.
I noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L, it's the truck I learned to drive in (stick at 13yo) and the 1st car I crashed too... So now this baby is almost 30 years old and recently had a minor restoration...
Engine was pulled out and all gaskets were changed, spark plugs, wire... All that stuff... It has been running pretty good, however last week a water line broke on the Left side near the spark plugs (if you are looking at the truck)
Since then It has absolutely Zero power. The slightest hill and even when pedal to the floor will lose power. Yesterday went from the start of a hill at 60mph in 4th to 20mph in 2nd because it didn't have the guts to go 1/3 mile uphill... I checked everything I could, and my brother took it to the exhaust guy who made a small hole on the Catalytic Converter and said it was good, but he could tell it was running too rich...
I replaced some of the vacuum lines last night, I found a lose one on the fuel pressure regulator (I think that's what it is, Its towards the engine firewall on top).
Idles beautifully, drives great, no rough shifting, pinging or knocking, no misfires. So that's what has me stumped... Runs great but just no power... Also before water line broke it was running fine with power...
1987 Ford Ranger
2.3L FI
5sp manual, Rwd
I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.