Here's the thing my Saturn is from 1997 and every time I get on the high way it and go over 4500 rpm it popes a fuse this results in the motor stopping steering wheel locking up and making our very dangerous to pull on the side of the on ramp to replace the fuse. How to fix this other than replacing the same 10 amp fuse over and over
View 2 RepliesThis morning the button on my brake handle popped out. Any DIY fixes for this? I will be taking it apart and looking at it asap but wondering why this happen.
View 9 RepliesThe wife and I own a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with 163k miles.
We just had our oil changed and we are currently running 5/30 and the oil light came on about a week after the change. I stopped the car immediately and checked the oil level and it was fine and oil was super clean. So I jumped back in the car and the light was off. Drove down the road about 2-3 miles and the light came back on and stayed on. Today it stayed off for a good 5-10 min while driving at highway speeds of 55-60 and then it popped on. The car runs great and it's not running hot that I know of and doesn't sputter or anything.
I was wondering if it was a bad Oil Pressure Switch? Where are they located at in the motor? I just put 1k into it with new new belts, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, wires and tires.
1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Saturn Aura. Last spring I had an incident where I was driving on a highway (60mph or >) and the car started to decelerate and the gas pedal didn't respond. I pulled off the road, and the car wouldn't start, but the radio worked. By the time AAA came, the car started and I didn't have another problem for 10 months. I did take it to the dealer after the first episode, and they couldn't find anything. Recently I had 2 similar episodes on the same day, one hour apart. I was again driving on a highway. After 5-10 mins, the car was able to be started again. I feel like it's a waste of money to take the car in to the dealer again, since they didn't find anything the first time. What might cause this to happen?
View 10 RepliesMy 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid died on Sunday while driving down the highway. The car has 101,500 miles and a brand new (November) battery. It was -5 degrees out at the time. Different engine lights started coming on, one at a time (the check engine light, the traction control light, the oil change light, then the seatbelt light) and then all of a sudden the entire dashboard went dark and the driving lights went out (it was close to sunset so we had the lights on). My fiance barely managed to steer the car over to the shoulder before it completely died. The hazard lights wouldn't even worked. My mechanic got it jump started yesterday and was able to drive it and said no engine lights are on, and everything looks fine. He does not think it was the alternator. What this could be?
View 8 RepliesHere's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
I have about 2000 miles on a new V-8 and there seems to be a loud tingy noise if I really get on it say above 4500 revs either driving or in park. It seems to be coming from either the catalytic converter or exhaust area. It is a very metallic clanging noise that is very audible outside the vehicle under heavier throttle positions, almost like a metal plate hitting another piece of metal.
2004 T-Reg V-8, Black, Conv, Xenons, Park, 19's,SS2
On my '91 last week I was driving on the highway about 60-65 when all of a sudden the speedo dial started climbing to 70-75-80-85 and past. The odometer seems to be working ok? Still when I drive it still operates in the same manner. It never bounces around or falls back. The needle is sort of stable such if I maintain a speed the speedo will maintain even though it's incorrect. There is a slight wavering of the needle meaning it's not as stable as it use to be. With the odometer working I was wondering and don't know. Does the cable drive the needle or is it electrically controlled? I'm thinking of grabbing another instrument cluster it that is the problem, I'd like to know more about it and understand how it works so I don't just throw parts at it until it's fixed.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
I have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
1999 ranger 3.0. Check engine light popped up showing P1000 and P0401 codes. I think the p1000 is a system readiness test. Not sure why that came up and the 401 is exhaust gas problem. I put on a new autozone DPFE a few months ago..
View 5 RepliesMy new XE Vue 4cyl 164hp engine seems to struggle in highway situations. The 4 speed engine seem late in shifting from 4th gear to 3rd when asking for more speed as in a passing situation.
View 6 RepliesP0420 bank 1 code popped up while driving. Im thinking this is just an oxygen sensor? Is it ok to drive with this code for a while if i buy an o2 sensor online?
View 5 Replies2 days ago my 2000 Hyundai accent Gl 1.5 stalled while driving i lost no power to my electrical system all my lights and stereo stayed on but i lost all engine power the check engine light popped on and i had to have a friend tow me home this has never happened to me before. I had sat in my yard for about a year before i started driving it again due to money problems. I did a tune up on it before I took it out anywhere and ran some lucas injector cleaner and changed oil added some oil additive and changed my air filter spark plugs seemed fine so I didn't replace them and it ran for almost a month just fine i have about 150k in miles on it then suddenly just died while driving home from work I am thinking its in my fuel lines filter or pump are clogged up but I am not sure. I am going to start diagnosing it tomorrow. I can't get the check engine light looked at cuz I can't get it started.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Prius with 210,000 miles. The inverter and traction battery were replaced last year. I started getting triangle and check engine lights about a month ago and the scan tool read p3191 p3006 p0300. The car would barely start in the mornings and the dash lights would be dim. I replaced the 12v aux battery today and all the symptoms went away. Driving home the triangle/check engine light popped on again and I stopped at Orielly's to use their scan tool. It now only reads P3006. I called a local mechanic who suggested to drive it a bit and clear the codes because the battery needed to equalize. Is this true?
View 8 RepliesMy car will start up and go into reverse no problem. However, once the car is warmed up (which I think it warms up a little quickly) it won't go into reverse. The problem has been getting worse for a year or two, but always works fine when the motor/transmission is cold. Also, going down the highway, it runs great and the engine never gets too hot. Is it just a transmission going out, or is it a cooling issue?
View 2 RepliesI just picked up a 2012 F350 lariat with about 65 000 miles on it, and while driving home, it popped up with reduced engine power on my screen. Tried adding DEF fluid, seems to right up to the top already, no actual change in engine performance either. Also, no check engine light or service light on (wrench light)....never run across this before and am totally thrown off. Haven't taken to dealer yet...
View 1 RepliesMy car has 190,000 miles on it, automatic transmission. About 1.5 years ago I had issues where it would slide into and out of drive gear. I was told valve body had crack and it was replaced. Transmission worked well. Today I went to friend move and not long after leaving acted funny driving and then felt like something 'gave' in drive train and it only went up to second gear and then only first gear would work. Shifting up and down with lever wouldn't change anything, first gear works fine shifting in and out, just doesn't go up into second or drive, and reverse doesn't do anything. I was told if cv joint had given way, there would be clunking, no clunking. Told that maybe it was low fluid, but checked just now standing still and fluid is at or above the full line and looks very clean.
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 Saturn s-series with trouble starting when cold. Sometimes it take 5-10 minutes to get it started. When it does start it is all you can do to keep it running. I have had it to 2 different repair shops spending way too much to not have the problem fixed.
View 30 RepliesI just put a new hydraulic system and clutch in my brothers 2002 Saturn sl1. Now we tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Just barely clicked a few times at the starter. I tried jumping it and checked all the connections I could think of that came off while doing the clutch. Nothing. So as I was pulling him home from the shop I had him try to jump it at a slow speed and what do you know fires right up. When we got it home . Turned it off and again nothing it just clicks. So my question is would it be the starter , maybe battery cuz it had a terrible looking ground connection or is something else misaligned on the flywheel. I wouldn't think so since it started and all the gears worked. Its a manual obviously.
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