Saturn - S-series :: Car Won't Go Into Reverse When Warmed Up
Aug 11, 2009
My car will start up and go into reverse no problem. However, once the car is warmed up (which I think it warms up a little quickly) it won't go into reverse. The problem has been getting worse for a year or two, but always works fine when the motor/transmission is cold. Also, going down the highway, it runs great and the engine never gets too hot. Is it just a transmission going out, or is it a cooling issue?
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My car has 190,000 miles on it, automatic transmission. About 1.5 years ago I had issues where it would slide into and out of drive gear. I was told valve body had crack and it was replaced. Transmission worked well. Today I went to friend move and not long after leaving acted funny driving and then felt like something 'gave' in drive train and it only went up to second gear and then only first gear would work. Shifting up and down with lever wouldn't change anything, first gear works fine shifting in and out, just doesn't go up into second or drive, and reverse doesn't do anything. I was told if cv joint had given way, there would be clunking, no clunking. Told that maybe it was low fluid, but checked just now standing still and fluid is at or above the full line and looks very clean.
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My 2000 Jetta gls vr6 automatic was not shifting into reverse until it warmed up a bit, so I did a filter and fluid change, car level, warm pumped fluid while shifting gears. No problem. Next morning no forward fear, guess I split the gasket by over tighting. Had it towed home. Oh, tried to get to work, adding fluid made it go. Now now gasket and fluid. No gears at all. Generic code reader said electric malfunction on every shift solinoid, torque converter lockout and something about shift timing malfunction. Basically everything connected to ribbon harness. What's up? Did I fry it. Also I have a 2002 triptronic from my 2002 vr6, suppose that's not a bolt on?
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When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
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I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
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I have a 1987 ranger 2.9 V6. Have a intermittent miss @ idle when warmed up. What is the proper way to pull the codes from the computer, i,st something about counting flashes or lights...
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My ranger has always run pretty good except for a small bit of chattering at startup which quickly went away after it warmed up. Now all of a sudden its much louder and doesnt seem to go away while driving. I read about the oil pickup tube getting blocked and not properly delivering oil and so I performed the superhuman task of dropping the oil pan to check. While I couldnt get the oil pan all the way out, I got it to where I could feel the oil pick up screen and everything seems okay. I have the valve cover off. Are the lifters adjustable? Whats the issue?
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'86 Ranger, 2.3L, Automatic transmission.
Been having a sputtering/rough running situation once warmed up, replaced every so often with open loop smooth running. Lately, have had several occasions where the truck stalls and will not restart after a hard right turn (fuel pump powers up, tho) After 30 or so minutes of repose, truck will restart and run.
Recent History:
During the last 1-1/2 years, had cylinder head rebuilt and reinstalled. Had to run it all winter w/o EGR tube attached because of bad fitting at exhaust manifold. Replaced the fitting last spring and replaced cat back exhaust system. Had manifold hole plugged with pipe plug all winter. Have had a diagnosis of poor compression in the past, have not rechecked compression since head rebuild, but did have a noticable increase in power.
Have checked base ignition timing and it is correct. Valve timing appears to be as it should be. Have not had the opportunity to check for spark during one of the breakdowns, since I had no tools and it was night time.
The codes:
Early in Fall, got 14, 21, 24, 34. The 14 particularly interested me, as it suggests ignition problems.
Just before pulling the distributor, I checked codes again; 14 had disappeared as did 34 (EGR issues I resolved above) but I still got 21 (coolant temp out of range) and 41 (no HEGO switch) So I left the distributor alone and replace the HEGO sensor and cleared codes.
Last code check, just got 21(coolant temp sensor voltage out of range) and 24(air charge or Vane air temp voltage out of range) There is very little heat on cold days, full radiator and I've "burped" the cylinder head on an incline more than once chasing trapped air.
I'm suspicious of the TIF module, since the stalling is after warm up and self corrects. It was replaced once perhaps 12 years ago.
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I have a Saturn SL2, 2000, 110k miles, automatic. When the engine is cold, reverse works. After the engine warms up, reverse stops working. It doesn't start moving from being in that gear, nor does it work when I push on the gas. Shifting from First to Second is a little rough at times.
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I bought a 1990 ranger with only 38000 miles on it from a online auction from boing aircraft. it never left the flight line and never even had a title. I picked it up from the airport and found out that it didn't have AC like they said, I was a little ticked but that isn't the main problem. When I drive it and it gets warmed up it leaks Tranny fluid from the front of the transmission. The engine does not overheat. It is a 4 cyl AOD automatic with a real thin radiator and a transmission cooler. Without AC the truck isn't the good deal I thought I was getting, and with a bad tranny this is becoming a big OOPS. Why this is happening?
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97 Saturn SL with a 5 speed manual transmission only has 1st and reverse. Can usually not even put the clutch in and it runs in 1st gear without stalling like a 1 gear automatic transmission. Weird
The Shifter moves normally but there is no 2 thru 5. Can put it in reverse. Drove it 3 miles to my home.
Anyway this is clutch related or some relatively cheap adjustment? The car is not worth the price of a new Xmission. Other alternative like replacing with an automatic xmission?
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Have a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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I have a 95 Saturn s-series with trouble starting when cold. Sometimes it take 5-10 minutes to get it started. When it does start it is all you can do to keep it running. I have had it to 2 different repair shops spending way too much to not have the problem fixed.
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I just put a new hydraulic system and clutch in my brothers 2002 Saturn sl1. Now we tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Just barely clicked a few times at the starter. I tried jumping it and checked all the connections I could think of that came off while doing the clutch. Nothing. So as I was pulling him home from the shop I had him try to jump it at a slow speed and what do you know fires right up. When we got it home . Turned it off and again nothing it just clicks. So my question is would it be the starter , maybe battery cuz it had a terrible looking ground connection or is something else misaligned on the flywheel. I wouldn't think so since it started and all the gears worked. Its a manual obviously.
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I have a 2001 Saturn sl. Within the past two weeks I've been having issues with my car needing jumped to start. I've replaced the starter last year. The battery is only a few months old and have had the alternator checked. I put my car in neutral and my car died...
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I was on my way to the store earlier today. Started the car, put in reverse, backed out, no problem---just like any other day. Put in first gear then started rolling. As I neared the RPM to shift to second, the gearbox was wobbly (which was strange), put it into second, then I had to downshift. It felt wierd. I pulled over. Car only goes into 1st and 2nd gear, I have no neutral and can't get into the other gears.
Some nice guy came up to me to see what the problem was. He told me it might be my clutch cable. He was nice enough to stop traffic for me so I could flip a u-turn in 1st gear to head back home.
So I'm home now, clutch can go into 1st or 2nd. Clutch feels normal, gearbox (where shifter is) is loose. I have a 2001 Saturn SL, I just hit 200,000 miles. I love this car. Runs great until today, just cant get into other gears or reverse.
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This morning the button on my brake handle popped out. Any DIY fixes for this? I will be taking it apart and looking at it asap but wondering why this happen.
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