The 1997 Saturn SC2 is new to me. It was delivered to my home after purchase and died. The car had been sitting for a while and was suggested by previous owner that it was the battery. After having charged the battery, she ran for about 5 mins and stopped. I was also informed that the fuel line sometimes would disconnect, but that is not the case now.
View 1 RepliesRan for a month just fine. Now it will only start after being jumped. Everything worked just fine.... What should I test first?
View 8 RepliesI am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
View 1 RepliesI come over from the old school forum (48-60) with a question about a new to me 1999 F150 XLT 5.4L, 4x4, Auto. Truck has ran awesome for a couple of days. Truck has in excess of 410,000 miles but don't let that mislead. I believe the engine has been replaced sometime along the way. Yesterday I was driving and it just stumbled and stopped. After sitting for 5 minutes it started again, stumbled and stopped.
Today I checked the following:
- Fuel pump/relay - both work
- Dropped gas tank and replaced fuel pump strainer and fuel filter
- Fuel pressure at rail remains steady
- No codes present and no SES/CEL on.
Could this be a plugged EGR valve or IAC valve? I have had similar issues on Tauruses but it always threw a code when it did. Could this indicate a cat issue?
I have a 95 Saturn s-series with trouble starting when cold. Sometimes it take 5-10 minutes to get it started. When it does start it is all you can do to keep it running. I have had it to 2 different repair shops spending way too much to not have the problem fixed.
View 30 Replies1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem.
This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as was recommended to me, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe).
I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although he suggested possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis.
My 1997 Saturn SL has had an odd overheating problem for several years now. When idling the engine starts to overheat, but the fan does not kick in until/unless I turn on the AC.( I do a lot of idling, as I work from the car a good deal.) I've had the car serviced, even had the fan specifically checked in the shop, & had the AC components changed out last year (whole other issue, barely blows cool air). But the overheating abides.
View 7 RepliesI posted about the f 350 cam lob and lifter wearing on the ford 460 ci engine, what all the causes might be. we used the cam lube but got a ticking within the first 10 min of running.
View 1 RepliesI had a dead battery on my '97 power stroke Ford F250. I realize now that when I was jumping it (successfully) I clipped the (black) ground cable to the alternator itself! Doy. The alternator is definitely dead now as I lose power after a few minutes of running the engine. My question is: did I blow a simple fuse or do I need to replace the whole alternator? How likely is it that I did further damage? I ask because I'm contemplating replacing the alternator myself. But maybe it would be wiser to get a tow to the mechanic.
View 4 Repliesi have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
View 9 RepliesWhile driving home last night my truck started to overheat, the temp jumped from where its been running at lately (around 210) to 240, I stopped and took it easy getting home. This morning I sprayed down the radiator to clean out any mud that may have gotten in it from field work at the office (its always going through some pretty deep stuff). It ran fine for about an hour then it started to over heat again, I got it home and did a complete radiator flush and then did a test drive. It still overheated so I decided to try something, I released the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap partially and drove it around again, this time it didn't overheat, put the cap back on and the temp jumped right back up to 240.
View 14 RepliesI changed the timing chain, phasers, tensioners, guides, and cam sensors and solenoids about 30k miles ago. Truck now has 170k miles. This past weekend engine started running so rough, it had the whole front end shaking. Threw 8 codes..1 bank..lean, bank 2 rich, timing retarded, cylinder G and F misfire, and more codes. It seems to have jumped timing pretty bad.
View 1 RepliesI replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
I have a 1995 buick roadmaster with 308,000 miles. The car quits intermittently but starts up immediately thereafter. Seems like an electrical issue but it doesn't act like the distributor is malfunctioning or fuel stoppage since it doesn't shudder prior to quitting. I have had the car since new, we love it and would like to keep it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Chrysler Sebring that in the past month will all of a sudden quit running. Had to the dealership twice in past month. New plugs, injectors cleaned. Got car out of shop yesterday and drove 6 miles and it quit twice again. Too late to take back to dealer. They have checked it out twice on monitor and all they said was what they did to repair. It seems to me that it is a fuel problem. Maybe a fuel pump, fuel filter, or dirt in the fuel itself. Will have to take back to dealer Monday. What do you think is the problem. Not missing or ideling rough. Runs good, but will all of a sudden quit.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
I have a 1994 Toyota Surf Hilux. Lately the manuel gear has quit shifting while the car is on. I can correct it by shutting the car off and then it shifts perfectly. This started out as an intermittent problem but is getting increasingly worse. It happens every day now. Trust me, this is very dangerous not to be able to shift while in African traffic. I don't want to take it to a mechanic here because they aren't usually trustworthy - they will fix all kinds of problems that I don't have and I can't afford to have my car tied up for weeks with no results. I have a friend who might be able to fix it if we can ascertain the problem but it is pretty confusing as to what the problem might be. The clutch was replaced a year ago.
View 9 RepliesMy 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
View 6 RepliesEvery time i run 50 miles per hour i feel shaking on my steering wheel..i did balance on my tire and alignment..still the same..
View 6 RepliesMy engine suddenly stops while driving. There is no warning or loss of power, it just stops randomly after running fine for a while. After some time (might be minutes or hours) the engine turns on and runs fine.
I have no clue what it might be, I believe it might be an electrical problem affecting the diesel pump. The pump has a pair of cables coming in to a white plug at the pump's back, I disconnected them but the engine still runs.