Saturn - Outlook :: A/C Low Pressure Line Is Leaking
Sep 17, 2014
I have owned my Saturn Outlook XR (2008) for a short 2 months. My a/c stopped working about 3 weeks ago. Replaced the blower motor and air would then blow again but the a/c still does not work. Had a mechanic look at the vehicle for me and turns out that I have that haunting saturn outlook hose rubbing together causing a leak problem that so many of you have also experienced. My low pressure line is leaking. My mechanic explained what an extensive project this is, not due to the actual parts, but, the labor to reach this hose then replace it. I am not thrilled about this problem. I do not want to be paying more money out of my pocket to fix a vehicle that I haven't owned long enough to have these kinds of expenses. This clearly is an issue in more than just my vehicle and GM is not taking responsibility for this poor placement/planning of the hoses and recalling this part.
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Friday, 4/4/14: I have read many of the posts about this issue on this site. Didn't know this was such a widespread problem until I started doing my internet research today. Obviously there are many of us and this has been going on for a few years with this vehicle. I have had soaked floor boards twice and dealing with my third incident today(4 inches of rain last night). Have an appt with my GMC dealership on Monday. How I start this process with GMC to quickly get their attention. Obviously, I need to contact GMC first so that I can get their standard, worthless answer. But I've read I need to hire a "lemon law attorney", post my dissatisfaction on social media, contact the news media, etc. I am 62 yrs old, on disability, can't afford this inconvenience for something GMC should be RECALLING and fixing. Plus I have a small garage and this monster vehicle will not fit in it (didn't know that until after I bought it).
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Having problems with Saturn Outlook, sunroof leaking?
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I have a 2008 Saturn Outlook, 88k miles that shudders at 35mph when accelerating. Does not matter if the car is hot or cold. This problem (there are others) started after I had my tires aligned. It does not pull to the left or right it just shakes and shudders at 35 mph and goes away. I thought maybe it was the spark plugs, but darn if this stupid car company did not build this so you (the regular folkd) can change their spark plugs. Have to remove the exhaust manifold etc. or pay a mechanic to replace them. After this started I had to have my water pump replaced, while it was in the shop I had them run a diagnostic and nothing shows up except the water pump issue and that my timing cover needs to be resealed.
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How do you remove low beam bulb, on passenger side.
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Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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I have a 2009 Saturn Outlook. The rear lift gate does not work anymore, as a matter of fact it tries to slam itself shut whenever it is lifted. I am not extremely mechanically inclined but I can do minor repairs so I also need to know if I can fix this problem or need to take it to a mechanic.
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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I have a 2003 Ford Excursion with the high pressure line leaking. My guess is that the original line had a rubber hose and was replaced with a 3/8" ID high pressure hose. My problem is that I can not get the 3/8" ID replacement hose over the second larger bulge on the line going to the radiator cooler. What am I doing wrong?
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Since my first service, I have had a clicking type noise in my front end of the car when I am driving slowly (parking, pulling into my driveway). The dealer first said that it could be the brakes setting up after the car sat for a while. They "could not duplicate" the sound when the car was dropped off, but I still hear when I drive.
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Couple of years ago I installed a fuel pressure gauge. I wrapped the fittings with teflon tape. Well within about a year it started leaking. So I shopped around and used Permatex Permashield fuel resistant sealant on the fittings. It says diesel resistant on the package. Couple months later leaking again. So I take it apart again, clean every fitting and follow the instructions to the letter. Well its leaking again. What will resist diesel fuel under 55 psi pressure. All the fittings seem to be pipe thread.
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I have a 04 camry and this car leaks gas after i pump about line before the full line. What do i need to do?!
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I lined up all the colored links on the chain with the notches on the gears perfectly, the gears were all in the correct position also. Everything was done, then I rotated the crank by hand, and now the notches don't line up with the colored links. Is this normal ? does it have to go around a certain amount of times before they line up again?
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Dropped her off at the dealer for the 30k service and minor oil leak near the turbo.
-Water pump replaced (never did whine nor did I notice it leaking)
-Valve cover gasket replaced
-Oil inlet line on turbo leaking
-Wastegate clamp
-Driver side window regulator
Already had my intake mani replaced around 25k miles. Hopefully this will cover all the known/dreaded Mk6 issues. My 1.8T was bulletproof.
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Found out my 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6 GLS needs a new brake line put in. The line rusted and all brake fluid leaked out. I am very surprised that after 7 years and only 103,000 km (about 65,000 miles) the car will need a new brake line put in already. All my other cars have been Japanese and have never experienced premature failure and replacement of brake lines.
Granted, I live in Toronto, Ontario, and this year has been a cold start to winter with lots of aggressive salting. It started to get a little bit warmer the last 2 days which probably accelerated the corrosion from the salt.
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I bought my RS a little more than a month ago. Low and behold about two weeks later my drivers side footwell and behind the drivers seat collected about 2 inches of rain water.
I have searched far and wide and perhaps I'm missing something...My leak is not in the rear which I have seen plenty of info and a couple awesome DIY's. My leak is coming from the panels by the fuse box and hood release. The original owner had done the service to it where the nipples are cut and drained. When I poured a cup of water in the front left drain in the sunroof water comes out of the nipple as well...
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It's just one thing after another with this car. Just had my uncle replace the front right cv joint (which took about 6 hours). While he was working on my car I noticed the parts of the engine looked moist (not greasy). I found that the oil feed line may be the culprit. Is this something that needs to be addressed ASAP? Or can I just ignore it for another year or so (when I may be getting a newer used car).
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2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
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I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
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I have a leak in my rear wiper fluid line on my GTI. When I use the rear washer, I get a pool of fluid in the driver side taillight and under the rear seats. I'm getting some fluid in the rear driver side headliner as well so the break must be there. First step is to pull the headliner.
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