Saturn - Manual-transmissions - Transmissions - Sc :: Jumping Out Of 2nd / 4th And Reverse
Jan 31, 2011
My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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Have a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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I'm not sure if it's a missing bolt or another issue, but my shifter just started becoming "sticky" while in neutral. Sticky meaning when I go to slide it side to side while in neutral it's slow, and it's slow to return to the middle when I release it on the left just under 1st (while in neutral). I noticed that I can pull up on the shifter and it actually lifts and glides easily then, but add I shift over the day it pushes back down and repeats. Goes into and out of gear ok, I hear some grinding nose even in neutral unless I lift up on the shifter.
Side note that may be unrelated, my hand break stopped laying flat when disengaged. I it pops up slightly causing the break light to come on. Both began about the same time.
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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So I heard some low-pitch but still the squeaky-type noise under the wheel when I turn it while driving/parking. In addition, once in a while, while driving the car, it will automatically honk on the street. I sense the car may need some check-up for its electric system. But what shall I do at this moment?
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During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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Reverse gear doesn't work on my 1999 F350, is the transmission need to be rebuilt? or it can be adjust thru the cable. the rest gears on transmission is Ok.
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When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
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My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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I am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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My 2001 Outback has a jumpy thumping problem when making a 45 degree turn and when going in reverse. My mechanic has been unable to figure out what the problem is. It only happens once the car has been driven for a while
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97 Saturn SL with a 5 speed manual transmission only has 1st and reverse. Can usually not even put the clutch in and it runs in 1st gear without stalling like a 1 gear automatic transmission. Weird
The Shifter moves normally but there is no 2 thru 5. Can put it in reverse. Drove it 3 miles to my home.
Anyway this is clutch related or some relatively cheap adjustment? The car is not worth the price of a new Xmission. Other alternative like replacing with an automatic xmission?
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On most of the newer cars there is no transmission dipstick and therefore there is no way for the consumer to check the condition or the level of the automatic transmission fluid and also there is no way for the consumer to add fluid or transmission additives. Is there a way to taking the vehicle to a dealer or a mechanic?
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1997 Honda crv wont go over 60 mph on the highway. I can put the accelerator all the way down, but it stays right at 60 and the RPMs won't go over 4. Sometimes I can take my foot off the accelerator and put it back on and the car will go to RPMs 3 and the speed can go to 80 and above, but lately it is getting worse. Is this just a transmission fluid exchange fix?
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