1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
View 6 RepliesMy car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 RepliesI got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
Here's the thing my Saturn is from 1997 and every time I get on the high way it and go over 4500 rpm it popes a fuse this results in the motor stopping steering wheel locking up and making our very dangerous to pull on the side of the on ramp to replace the fuse. How to fix this other than replacing the same 10 amp fuse over and over
View 2 RepliesWe have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
View 4 Replies2.0T's having problems with fuel rails or fuel pump at 30,000 miles using GIAC chip. Just got back from induktion motorsports with a friend. He was having problems with fuel cut at about 4500 rpms. Holds boost up to 22lbs for some reason and then just drops down holding no boost at certain rpms between 5th and 6th gear getting on it. Car doesn't go past 80 mph until the turbo comes back (When it wants to) guys up at induktion said its prob the fuel rail or pump. They ran three different tests on the car and car still ran the same using the chip program (93 octane) and stock mode.
View 2 RepliesJust got a 1996 Jeep cherokee with right hand drive, 73,000 miles. Drove it less than 2500 miles when had problems with it shifting out of first gear. Would rev up the rpms to 3500 to 4500 and then a large jolt before going into next gear. Took to transmission specialist who was able to get it to act up., Now he tells me that the transmission is an import??? (was manufactured here in states and sent to Japan) Can't get the codes on the machine to tell him what is wrong with the tranny., says the codes say it is ok. Now what do I do. I need this car as I am a mail carrier and it was bought for that purpose.
View 8 RepliesExperience a hissing sound from stereo, specifically mark levinson. The hissing sounds occur from certain songs and when the engineer rpms are around 4500.
View 1 RepliesI have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
I have a 2001 Saturn sl. Within the past two weeks I've been having issues with my car needing jumped to start. I've replaced the starter last year. The battery is only a few months old and have had the alternator checked. I put my car in neutral and my car died...
View 1 RepliesI recently left my lights on on my 2001 Saturn S series. (I also recently had a car stereo installed, don't know if it's relevant). I jumpstarted the car and now I get an odd chiming at startup. When I arm the alarm the arming honk is as loud as the alarm itself. It used to be a more modest honk. Any thoughts on what might have happened during the jumpstart or how I can correct these issues?
View 2 RepliesI was recently left stranded in a mall parking lot by my 2007 Saturn Ion when it wouldn't start. After getting a jump from roadside assistance, I was told the battery needed to be replaced. I thought nothing of it since its a 2007 and has been driven between Virginia and Pennsylvania for the past four years fairly regularly. After a new battery was installed Sunday afternoon and the car started perfectly and was driven around all day Monday, I was shocked when I was once again left stranded in the parking lot at work Tuesday afternoon, again with a car that wouldn't start at all (there was no "clicking" either). The keys would get stuck in the ignition and I'd have to remove them by pushing the tiny button under the steering wheel. The new battery was tested again at the shop and they found nothing wrong with it and couldn't explain why it wouldn't start at all the previous afternoon but started and ran fine two days prior.
View 4 RepliesHas experienced transmission seem to jump back in gear after coasting at low speeds in traffic. When I push on the pedal after coasting it jumps back in gear and is very frustrating. I have had it checked out at dealer and they told me they re-programmed the Transmission which scared me. But that didn't fix the problem. Will be taking it in one more time before I decide what to do.
View 30 RepliesWe have a 2006 Santa Fe Hyunda with 100,000 miles that when we hit 80 mph on the highway the rpms drop to zero and stay there. We just had the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Why this is happening?"
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
I have a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Camry with around 108,000 miles. The other day, with the heating on, I felt it little lurch as well as a small jump in rpms at times while rolling on idle. This seemed to occur right after a hissing sound stopped after it sounded, pretty quietly, from the rear of the car for a couple seconds. To me it seems like the kind of a lurch I sometimes get when turning off the AC, which makes sense because the AC turning off reduces strain on the engine.
It's definitely not some really bad problem and no lights are on, but something I'm a little worried about nonetheless.
My wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
On my way to the grocery store my car's RPMs started to pulse up and down (between 1 and 2) when driving. While stopped at the red light it would vibrate very hard. When i put it in park the RPMs would rise fast before i shut it off. It did the same things on the way back home plus the check engine light came on. A few hours later i put a little oil in it and drove it around my neighborhood and it didn't do any of the things it did that morning.
View 5 RepliesJust the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
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