Saturn - Leaks :: 1997 SW2 Could Not Shift Into A Higher Gear (out Of 2nd)
Apr 24, 2015
While driving my 97 Saturn SW2, the car couldn't shift into a higher gear (out of 2nd). while pushing on the gas, the RPM's would go higher but not shift. Also, the 'Service Engine' light came on. I don't have a code reader. Luckily I was close to home. When it parked it, I noticed a leak under the car, in the front section of the engine. I've also noticed that the past few days when putting the vehicle into reverse, it lurches pretty hard when it catches (as in, it jerks the car back suddenly). What could be the problem(s)? Should I drive this to the mechanic or have it towed?
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Only during the summer, my 2003 Vue transmission jerks and shifts to (I believe) to a higher gear. Mechanic replaced the computer "harness" but it did not solve the problem. The car has little power to accelerate from a stop. I usually pull over, turn off the motor, and restart the vehicle.
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Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
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1999 5.4 ... I was just driving down road and truck suddenly wouldnt shift into overdrive/higher gear. pulled to side of road and the motor was revving very high at 2500 rpm. shut truck off and on a few times...kept doing it until finally after a while it went back to normal....
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My Saturn Ion Quad leaks bad when it rains. GM did something a couple of years ago but that didn't last.
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I have a 95 SL1, 175,000 miles. Both front doors and the right rear door have water leaks. Leak is at the top edge of doors. Seals look ok. During heavy rain it is bad, soaking the seats and floor boards. Would adjusting the door lock striker by pulling the door in tighter to make a more positive seal or should I replace the door seals. I have friends you own Saturns and they have similar problems with door water leaks.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
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How to fix a gear shift that tends to get stuck once in awhile. What about WD, and how would you apply it? I have a '97 Monte Carlo.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L Supercrew that won't seem to shift out of 1st gear. This morning coming out of stop light on the way to work, the truck seemed to jerk when it was supposed to shift into 2nd gear. I was told by a friend that the speed sensor may be it?
So I took the truck around the block just so I can get a feel for what is going on. So the truck shifts into 2nd, but not past that. It seems that around 30mph the RPM's go up jump up quickly to 2k+ and no shift or increase in speed. I was reading up a bit on it and came across the possibility of a TPS?
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Just wondering if this is anything to be concerned about. I have a 2006 Saturn Vue. It has just over 80,000 miles on it. The temperature gauge has always registered just below the "second mark" once the car is warm. As of last week, the gauge is now registering slightly past the "second mark." So, higher. It is no where near the "red" zone, and nothing seems to be wrong, but it has me concerned. I took it in for service and they said "it is still well within the normal range, don't worry about it." But I think something made the gauge go higher, and I am concerned about a problem lurking. Am I being a Nervous Nellie? I love my Vue and want to take good care of it.
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97 Venture, 4T60e trans, 197,000 mi. No shift or performance problems ever, solid as a rock. Well taken care of. Then a few months back it throws a P0758 code for Shift Solenoid B, and intermittently seems stuck in 3rd or 4th gear when starting from a stop. Wife drives w/ kids so immediately I park it to investigate and drive it myself and observe. Problem would happen usually after warming up and driving a couple miles, but would sometimes go away after shutting it off for a bit and going again.
After lots of research I decided it was probably a stuck solenoid and tried Sea Foam Trans Tune to see if it would clean it up, and it WORKED! For about 4 weeks that is, then came back. So I took the proper time and steps to replace both shift solenoids myself, and of course the fluid & filter (since you have to drain it to open the side cover anyway). My work is meticulous and clean, so I know nothing was done shoddy.
When removing shift solenoid A, however, a spring-loaded spool came partway out of that port in the valve body, didn't fall out, and I pushed it back in with the new solenoid. Everything else went back together flawlessly. On the first drive, it shifted to 1st as expected so all seemed well. Then after a several miles of driving I noticed something felt wrong - it was skipping 3rd gear altogether (1-2-4), and it would NOT downshift from 4th to 3rd. However if shifter was in "3" it would shift from 2nd to 3rd just fine, then I could put it in "D" and would hit 4th, but could only downshift to 3rd manually.
I am stumped, and it's been parked for months because something in the solenoid change has caused a major problem. I don't believe it could be mechanical gear/clutch failure as it shifts to 3rd w/ shifter in "3", and there was never a mechanical problem before. And it also still intermittently starts out in a high gear though quite seldom (3rd or 4th, not sure which but it barely moves) but putting shifter in "2" or "1" makes it start in 2nd. And never a SES light. Checked solenoid resistance at trans connector and they're perfect.
Tranny shop checked computer and said it's good, and also said "it's shifting just fine" which is absolutely not true. So much for a "free" diagnostic check... Could I have just gotten a bad solenoid? Could the spring-loaded spool that came part way out gotten hung up or the spring not reseated properly? Could it be the vacuum modulator (it got slightly bent upward when lowering engine)?
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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Started to hear noise from passenger side front wheel at higher speeds and will disappear when turning wheel to right.
From what I have been reading this sounds like it the wheel bearing.
Is this a easy repair or is more work than it sounds.
Autozone shows wheel bearing and hub as separate pieces.
when removing the parts from the car do they come out as assembly or in parts
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97 Silverado - 5.7 with 4l60e trans. truck will not shift into 2nd gear while driving. stays in first gear until rpm are high and shifts into 3rd. under hard acceleration will stay in 1st until let off gas then shift into 3rd. manual shifting results in same, no 2nd gear until selector is moved into 3rd then shifts into 3rd. Haven't got any trans codes, fluid change netted no change in performance, fluid was pretty dirty but didn't smell burned, and there were no metal shavings in pan.
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I just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
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1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
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My 4r70w is having some issues. It drives/shifts fine in reverse, 1st and 2nd but wont shift past 2nd gear. Doesn't even act like it tries. No CEL. I dropped the pan yesterday and there wasn't any metal chunks or any other debris in the pan and only the normal fuzzes on the magnet and there wasn't even an abundant amount on the magnet. This is a junkyard trans that was put in before I purchased the truck (2001 F150 supercrew 2wd).
I've ohm'd the shift solenoids and they seem to be within spec (below 30 ohms) so i want to rule them out, but still thinking of replacing all 3 solenoids just to be safe. Also, the filter just fell out with the pan so I'm assuming that might be part of the problem. My next thing to check is the 2-3 accumulator and spring to see if its stuck or broken.
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4l 4x4. When I am going over 50 on the highway and I am in OD, if I let off the gas a couple of seconds later it feels as though the brakes come on because the truck slow down so drastically and when I give it a little gas it slams into gear. It feels as like there is a "gap" where nothing is engaged before it slams back in. This is a rebuilt tranny with less than 7K miles on it. I took it back once and they said it was the motor mounts. I had those replaced and still the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs 6K miles ago and the COPs 3K ago. There is 170K on the truck. I only drive about 8K miles a year.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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Ok so I went mudding this past week, and I put my 997 7.3 truck in 4x4 had fun then took it out of 4 wheel now it won't shift past 2nd gear top speed 35 mph.... It still has all the power revs up Rpms fine but it won't go faster then that.
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