Saturn - Ion :: Trunk Flooded And Now The Engine Will Not Start
Oct 14, 2016
Four days ago, shortly after a hurricane. I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. The lights, radio, and AC would turn on but the engine wouldn't make a sound. I left the car at my father's for four days without looking at it. I open the trunk to check the battery, and the well with the battery and spare tire is filled with water. The battery was almost completely submerged except for the top inch of the battery where the cables are connected. There is a metal connector between two cables that is completely rusted from the water. My question is, what do I need to do/get in order to get my car running again.
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Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
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My 2006 F150 with 77k seized up on friday. Sounds like a bad injector flooded the engine, caused hydrolock, and then bent a rod. I called the dealership today and they said the only fix is a new engine. I have 3 payments still left and now the dealership is telling me I gotta buy a new engine.
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Yesterday evening I drove through a flooded area of the road, probably about 1.5 feet deep. I did not realize it was quite that deep. The water came through the floor, and probably soaked my ECU.
The engine died, but will idle very rough. I doubt I got water in the cylinders, not much at least, because the engine turned over no problem. I also have an air filter that would be difficult to get too much water into from the way it is situated.
It is putting out white smoke that smells like gas (a lot initially, now not as much), and the engine is smoking a little as well...white, gas odor...I think it is coming out around the exhaust manifold.4
It is running very rough, sounds like from 2 cylinders, and after letting it idle in the hopes of drying everything out, I noticed that the fuel gauge is at empty...it was at 3/4 earlier.
What should I start by doing?
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Recently,my 2003 Saturn Ion's electronic trunk opening buttons have stopped working ! A couple of times,I have found wiring casings underneath where we usually park the car at night and I even found what appeared to be a chewed up wire within the same spot. I've kind of checked for bad fuses. But, there is no listing for a fuse for the electronic trunk switches. Neither the button on the remote works nor the button inside the vehicle.
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I have a 2004 Saturn SL2. My Engine Turns over ok, but won't start. When I turn on my ignition key, the Dash lights Start Blinking.
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My car was subject to flood waters, August 19th 2011. The waters flooded the interior of the car and submerged the OBD I. When the flood waters receeded, I was able to turn over the car and drive it. After removing the car from the flood waters, parked it in higher place and used shop-vac to suck out water.
Passenger seat functioned -ok
heater-ok
sun/moon roof - ok
battery - ok but was shorting out
htd seats - not ok
drivers seat - not ok: seat will not move for/aft and seat will not decl/recl.
water did get into the OBD, yet, devices that work off OBD seem to work fine.
Q: Would be be true that the OBD I is still salvagable, or should I get rid of it? 1995 Olds Aurora
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I have a 2010 Camry that was flooded during Hurricane Sandy. There was enough salt water in the car to reach the bottom of the front seats.
My dealer says that car should be considered totaled since the electronics under the seats are damaged.
What's mounted under the seats? The ECU? What else? Can I replace these units myself and be OK?
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My friend parked his 99 Passat 1.8T manual for a long time. Came back, car flooded inside (I am pretty sure the drain under the battery was plugged). He installed new battery. Not starting (starter not kicking in). I drove out with a spare ECU (same part number). No go.
Ran VAGcom scan (with my ECU in), only 2 engine codes (I did NOT scan with the original ECU installed; it was freezing cold in the parking lot).
2 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0118 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
a) Immo should not be an issue in those years (only code is the radio code IIRC when disconnecting battery). He has an aftermarket radio
b) Softcode of my ECU is 06201. Does the Passat need a different softcode?
c) Aside from ECU, what other parts can prevent the starter from turning and may be harmed by the 'flood'? Relays, fuses, etc?
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I have a 2005 Dodge ram 1500 Hemi that has had starting issues for over a year. After sitting for over 30 minutes, it will crank like it is flooded. If I lightly put pressure on the accelerator, it fires right up. It happens with regular or mid grade gas....but seems to happen more when at 1/4 tank or less. It starts normal first thing in the morning or after several hours of sitting. Now along with this, when I turn the key in the ignition, there will be a dead pause, then start cranking. Fuel pump and ignition switch?
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My sister has a 2008 Camry. While parked at work about 1 month we had a severe thunderstorm and the parking lot flooded. Water got inside the car and the carpets both front and rear got very wet. Now the car has a musty smell. I washed the carpets with Blue Coral upholstery cleaner with odor eliminator. Though it is a little better the musty smell still persists. What can I do to get rid of the smell?
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I'm having an intermittent and strange issue with my car.
A couple weeks ago, I started my car (started on first crank, as it pretty much always has) and drove to work. When I arrived at work, I got out, and found that I was a little bit too far from the curb for my taste. When I got back in the car to restart it to fix my bad parking, it wouldn't start. There was no crank, no click, no nothing. Odd. It had literally been off for 30 seconds. I went into work and came out a few hours later and tried again. Same thing. No crank. No click. But, all of the electronics - radio, blower, wipers - worked fine. Two hours later (five hours after arrival) I tried again, armed with a multi-meter. Nothing. The battery measured fine, 12.5v no load, 11.5 under load (blower running, radio on.) So, I called for a tow. I went out to meet the truck, this was now about 6.5 hours after driving to work, and thought I'd give it one last try. It started right up! It did so 5 or 6 times in a row. I sent the tow truck away and went back to work. When I left work an hour and a half later, the car started fine, and I got home. When I parked the car at home and turned it off and tried to restart - no crank, no click. Weird.
The next morning, I got up, the car started right up, and I took it to my mechanic. Of course, when I got there, I couldn't get the problem of the previous day to manifest, but I left it anyway. They had the car for two days, and couldn't get the same results either. They even let if warm up for 25 minutes at one or two points to see if a warm engine was the issue. Nothing. So, they sent me away not knowing what the issue was. The owner suspects it's the starter failing, but doesn't feel he can sell me on it since he can't say for sure.
Over the last couple of weeks. I've been driving it much less, and mostly only when I'd go from home to work where the car would sit for 8+ hours before restarting. I've not had any issues.
Until today. I got gas, stopped at the auto parts store to pick up some coolant (and checked for error codes with their computer - no codes came up), and a store. When I left the store, I had the same issue. No crank, no click. Just as I was resolved to walk the rest of the way to work, I decided to try it one last time. It started right up. So, this time, it was only down for 5 minutes or so, but it seemed to be the same issue arising again.
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I have a 2000 Saturn LW. It's generally been a good car. Approximately 6 months ago it would not start (would not even turn over). Had it towed, starter replaced and things seemed fine. Six weeks later, same thing. Replaced the starter again (supposedly battery was checked both times and fine). Works for another month and wouldn't start again. However, this time I couldn't get the key in. They replaced the electrical (ignition?) switch. Worked for another month or so and then wouldn't crank (as usual, would not turn over at all). Had it towed and the mechanic said the wires weren't connected well. Now 3 or 4 weeks later, almost happened again, but we did get it started on the third try and drove again to the mechanic. Works for him (of course). Says if it happens again, to move the gear handle as it might be a neutral safety switch (I don't think this is it as I'm pretty sure I tried that on a prior occasion).
It does seem to have electrical issues as the inside lights for certain periods of time will flicker. It also went through a spell where it would just cut off while going about 65 with the cruise and you hit a hill. The low power light would come on and a couple of others. It took getting a new computer? put in to get that to go away.
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Ive had my saturn for over a year now. It just hit 100,000 miles. Seems to be the perfect car, except for one major flaw. Once a week to multiple times a day, my car fails to start. For twenty mins to an hour. Ive done some research, looked in my manual, and have been to multiple shops. From what I know the problem is the "passlock" I turn my key and it barely turns over. I wait and wait, keep turning my key every so often, for a long period of time.. until my car finally!!! starts. Im late to work some days even when leaving half an hour before I truely need to leave. The shops have done many things to my car, each time saying it is fixed. Im starting to think it can never be fixed and I need to give up on my car before i lose my two jobs.
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Bought a 2001 Saturn SL2 a couple of years ago. I love it except for one thing. It won't start. Actually the problem was that periodically would not start. I had the mechanic check the connections to the starter and it was fine. When I turn the key ALL the electric stuff works just fine and then when you turn it the next notch to start it all goes off, as it should, till you release it then it all goes ack to normal. SO, being a standard, it was easy just to park on a slight incline, JUST IN CASE. Well a couple of months ago, I changed the tilt of the steering wheel and it solved the problem for nearly 2 months, THEN the problem started again and has not relented. This makes me think that the problem is in the steering column. What I need to look for once I get the cover off the column? I have been told that sometimes solder joints can come lose. I can solder so that would be an easy fix but before I tear into it.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion with about 102,000 miles on it. Last winter, it wouldn't start if it was cold out. I would turn the key, it would turn over for a second and then die. A few hours later if it was warmer the car would start. Then this summer we found that if we started it a few times in an afternoon (say running errands) and then tried to start it again, it would do the same thing.
When that happens though, we found that if we wait five minutes, try again, wait another six minutes and try again it will eventually catch and work. We've brought it to two different mechanics, but - because the car always starts for them (of course!) - they can't figure out what it is. We even spent a morning driving around and brought it to the mechanic but still we couldn't replicate the problem. We just had our first cold morning - and it wouldn't start.
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I have a 2006 Saturn Ion coupe and it occasionally won't start after a cold (below 32 degrees) night. What happens is on certain mornings, I'd go and start the car but the engine won't turn. The radio plays, the dome lights go on, the engine just won't turn, at all. The funny thing is without me doing anything else, when I try it after around 10 minutes, it starts right up and runs fine the rest of the day. Could the 10-minute wait be indicative of a frozen fuel line that's been thawed by the addition of gasoline when I press the gas pedal to start to car? Or is it something to do with the electrical system?
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I have a 95 Saturn SL2 4 Cyl DOHC with 196k miles. This engine however has about 140k. Yesterday I was driving to work and it stalled and now will not start. It gives one attempt to crank, a single "err" sound about half a second long and then I get nothing. The radio still comes on and the dash lights work, though I don't believe all of them work to give the correct indications. The battery is not the problem. What may cause this?
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I have replaced the battery, the alternator is good. I turn the key ignition on and NOTHING. All lights turn on and go off after a few seconds. No clicking noise. It turns om quickly when it is jumped.
I can re enter car a few times, but after a day or so the same problem. What can I check to solve this problem.
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I just put a new hydraulic system and clutch in my brothers 2002 Saturn sl1. Now we tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Just barely clicked a few times at the starter. I tried jumping it and checked all the connections I could think of that came off while doing the clutch. Nothing. So as I was pulling him home from the shop I had him try to jump it at a slow speed and what do you know fires right up. When we got it home . Turned it off and again nothing it just clicks. So my question is would it be the starter , maybe battery cuz it had a terrible looking ground connection or is something else misaligned on the flywheel. I wouldn't think so since it started and all the gears worked. Its a manual obviously.
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I have a 2001 Saturn sl. Within the past two weeks I've been having issues with my car needing jumped to start. I've replaced the starter last year. The battery is only a few months old and have had the alternator checked. I put my car in neutral and my car died...
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