Saturn - Ion :: Short Ratcheting Noise When Cruise Control Is Engaged
Sep 1, 2013
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion and when the cruise control is engaged it makes a short ratcheting sound if I go up an incline. It sounds like it happens in front of the stick shift and it doesn't affect the rpm's or the power of the engine, it's just a weird noise. It's done that for years and hasn't increased or changed, I'm just wondering what causes it, I've never heard a car make a sound like that before.
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The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
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My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
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The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
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My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
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I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
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I have a 2007 ford edge that when you turn left or right it sounds like the traction control is activating and makes a ratcheting noise. I have replaced cv joints and wheel bearings.
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For some reason, when I go up/down driveways, pull into parking lots with sloped curbs, etc, my traction control will engage and there is a grinding noise in the back on the back brakes. I don't know if this is normal or not. I had all the brakes replaced recently but that didn't stop the issue, so I don't know if this is just normal or what. Is this normal and if not, what it might be?
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Power steering on '03 Ion cuts out from time to time and then comes back on a short time later.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?
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Strange problem that just happened last evening. When I push the cruise button the horn toots and the panel cruise light comes on/off. However, the cruise control will not work.
If I toot the horn, again the cruise panel light comes on/off as well. The cruise control worked fine earlier that day.
What this may be and where to start looking? My first thought is to disconnect the battery for a few hours and hopefully reset the computer.
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Question regarding a 2002 Dodge Dakota, 2wheel drive ext cab 100,000 miles 6 cylinder engine. Cruise control stopped working, get the indicator light on dash, but no cruise.
Would I start with the Clock Spring? Will Durango parts interchange? ABS Light, was told the problem is the main unit that mounts on the driver side fender. Have tried replacing with other units from the local scrap yard, but still get warning lights/sounds.
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I recently changed my oil, transmission fluid, and both coolant systems. I have a 2008 Prius, and I can hear this noise coming from the engine when I accelerate between 50-70 MPH or have the cruise control on.
I had low coolant in the ICE system earlier (didn't know there were two separate systems) and I had the red triangle light up for a moment and "Problem" appear on the LCD screen followed by an orange thermometer. I pulled over and let it cool down, and babied it home and added coolant.
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I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
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This morning (roughly freezing temperature - nothing out of the ordinary after the brutal winter we just had) got onto the highway to head to work and set the cruise control (as normal) at approx 110km/h (65mph) and after several seconds heard a distinct, quite unpleasant grinding noise. It was loud enough to be heard over the heater and radio. Turned the heater and radio off to listen closer and didn't like the sound of it - sounded like metal on metal.
There was no different feel in the floor, pedals or steering wheel. As soon as I turned cruise control off, the noise disappeared! Turned cruise control back on, and the noise returned approx 5 seconds later. If I continued driving along normally and sustained a certain speed, the noise would appear after 5 seconds again and only go away once I lifted off the gas or coasted down a hill... Very bizarre. Once I got to work and poked my head underneath didn't immediately notice anything out of the ordinary - no funny smells or anything...
Background info: 2011 FX4 ecoboost, crew cab. Stock, no modifications. Approx 134,000km (~80,000 miles)...
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I have a 2010 Toyota Prius that has always since day 1 had a ratcheting clicking noise in the steering wheel column.
The sound occurs each and every time I pull out in reverse from a parked position then as I am pulling forward as the wheel straightens out the noise occurs.
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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I've got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler SE 5-speed with 83,000 miles on the 2.4l PowerTech engine in it, and it's making a very strange noise that I can't pinpoint.
So first, the noise itself. It sounds like a metallic tapping or ratcheting, like the sound of raising of a large chain hoist. Fairly high-pitched, audible inside and out. Not incredibly loud (I have to point it out to passengers) but loud enough to bother the hell out of me. The closest I can come with location is "somewhere under the hood."
However, the noise is only present under certain conditions:1. The transmission must be in gear. Forward or reverse doesn't matter. Revving engine at idle does not produce the noise.2. The transmission must be under load, i.e. when accelerating or releasing the clutch in 1st to begin driving. Letting off the gas stops the noise.3. The noise only exists somewhere between 1k and 2.5k rpms. Application of throttle at any road speed in any gear with the engine in that RPM range produces the noise. 4. The frequency of the tapping increases with engine speed. 5. Ambient temperature appears to have no effect, but as engine temperature increases the noise tends to disappear. Not always, though, as it shows up sometimes when the engine is completely up to operating temperature. 6. I don't notice any kind of performance issues related to the noise. Power's normal (for a 2.4l Chrysler 4-banger, that is) and gas mileage is within the EPA estimates.
Things I've investigated:1. I'm pretty sure it's not lifter noise. A bottle of Seafoam made it run better, but the noise persists. 2. I've checked the catalytic converter heat shield. It's on tight. I found the flange where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe was a bit loose, but tightening it down didn't eliminate the noise. Getting underneath and shaking the hell out of every component of the exhaust system I can reach produces no results.3. Engine mounts show normal wear. Transmission mount appears fine. 4. No check engine light, and all gauges read normal. Hooked up a code reader for fun and it came back with nothing.
As the noise only shows up while driving, I can't just crawl under there and poke around. The best I can do while driving is feel for related vibration, which gives me nothing. Whatever causing it, it's not transferring up through the stick.
In the may-or-may-not-be-related category, I've got a bit of oil consumption and a clunky transmission, but according to the various Jeep forums I've found, those seem to be fairly normal.
We got some snow the other day, and as I cleared it off I allowed the car to warm up for about 20 minutes. When I got in and drove it, the noise was greatly reduced. Not gone, but barely perceptible.
I spent a couple hours on YouTube the other day, trying to compare my noise to videos of other Jeeps with drivetrain issues, and found nothing even close to similar. Whatever's making this noise, it's not common.
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Wife's 2010 F150 4x4 85000 KMs makes grinding / ratcheting noise in LH front axle when in 2 wheel drive. Mostly when turning left some times when traveling straight never when turning right. Never makes the noise when in four wheel drive. I am suspecting the auto hub is the issue but wonder if others have had this trouble ?
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My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
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