Saturn - Ion :: 2006 - Randomly Lurching Almost As If Stalling When Car Is In Gear
Mar 10, 2012
I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
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I've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
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So I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
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Occasionally (I cannot isolate a particular behavior or scenario), when I put the car into either drive or reverse from a cold start, remove the emergency brake (in either order), keep continued solid pressure on the brake pedal, the car will lurch a few inches. If I do not release brake quickly and re-apply, it will lurch again. This is very disconcerting. It happens on level ground. It is particularly alarming when parallel parked or in a parking lot when people are around. I am taking the car in to the dealer tomorrow for the 5K checkup and will mention it.
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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Sometimes when you slow down for an exit and then step on the gas pedal, it lurches like it skipped a gear. Or sometimes is sounds like you're pressing the gas pedal while in neutral and then it kicks into gear with a lunging forward. What do I need to do?
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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I have a 2001 saturn l200 2.2 about 163000 miles on it..i was told from the shop that my car been stalling..so i put new coil pack and new spark plugs in and they told me they got a code for crankshaft sensor so i get a new one put and now it still saying my car is still stalling..so i unhock iac while the car was running to see if rpm goes up of down it done none of them.. how i can check and see if my iacv is going bad.
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200 that has been extremely reliable until recently. My car is suddenly unable to deal with stop-and-go traffic. After sitting in traffic for 15 minutes or so, I will hear something that sounds like a fan or electric motor come on. It sounds like it comes from under the hood on the passenger side. Shortly after that, it seems like the accelerator stops working. I let the clutch out, and hit the gas like normal, and the car stalls. When I restart the car, the fan noise is gone and it runs fine for another 5-10 mins before it all happens again. This has happened maybe 4 times over the last few weeks. It has not happened under any other driving conditions.
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2005 saturn l300 water leak and pools driver side flooring. have removed carpet and sound cushion from flooring. used garden hose to find leak source w/o luck. it has rained twice w/o leaks.
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I own a 2005 Saturn Ion, automatic trans, that we have never had any serious issues with in the past.
Saturday April 7th, I was on the highway heading out of town. My engine, oil and battery lights came on and the car stopped responding to the gas pedal, I could no longer accelerate, the car was coasting. The radio was still on, I was able to use my turn signals to get off the highway and turn on my flashers on the side of the road.
Once safely off the highway, I turned the car off and attempted to turn it back on, nothing. It didn't even sound like it turned over, pretty much dead silent. Approximately 30 minutes after pulling off the tow truck showed up and took me to a Sears automotive, the "closest" mechanic to where I had gotten stuck.
At Sears, approximately an hour now after the incident, they were able to start my car to get it into the garage. I told them the same thing that I had posted above, adding that I may or not have had cruise control on at the time, and that my car clock had been slowly losing time over the past couple of years, I was now 22 minutes slow after resetting the clock about 5 months earlier.
They then checked my battery and the computer codes? They took the battery out to charge and told me that the computer had a code "P601" stored in it, something to do with the ICM. This was a computer issue and not something they could fix at Sears Automotive. They charged my battery and then told me it was still bad, and tried to sell me a battery so that they could test my alternator, because they would be "cheaper than a dealership." I asked them to just put the car back together and called another tow truck.
When taking the car out of the garage, I don't know if they had to jump it to move or not, but as they were parking it, the power steering went out in my car. They spent 10 minutes looking for a reservoir that doesn't exist because I learned later that my power steering is electric since I have an electric engine. After that fiasco I was towed to a Buick GMC dealership to deal with the computer issue.
They didn't look at the car until the following Monday, April 9th. The dealership could find nothing wrong with the car. Sears removing the battery had taken the codes out of the system, although I did give them the information sears had given me, P601- ICM. The power steering fuse was blown, but they suspected that Sears had done that by improperly jumping the car to get it out of the garage, I can't prove or disprove that.
Other than that the car started fine for them, ran fine, gave no codes, and did not cut off. I picked it up after work and have been driving it to and from work since.
This morning, Monday April 16th, the car did the same thing to me again on my way to work. I was driving on a smaller road this time, doing 45 as opposed to 65. My engine light came on first, and the car shuddered, like if you were riding with someone who's not good at driving a stick shift. Then my battery light came on. All my electronics, radio, windows, flashers, etc were still working as they were the first time this happened.
I was able to pull off the side of the road and make the necessary phone calls. After 15 minutes the car started normally when I cranked it, this being the first time I cranked it after pulling over and turning it off. I drove straight to the dealership, and they had it all day.
Again, they can find nothing wrong with the car. They got a code that says Cam Shaft, which they said is too vague to narrow down without charging a great deal of labor. The car started up, ran well, and hasn't acted up for them at all. They said they checked my connections, and added something to reduce resistance in case that was hindering it. They are at a loss what to do next unless the car gives them more specific symptoms.
I'm at a loss what to do. I don't really want to keep driving this vehicle when it suddenly cuts off on me twice in two weeks.
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For about the last two years or so, my 2001 Saturn SC2 will every once in awhile not start up. I looked at the several posts about this, but my problem seems different...my starter turns, the engine starts, but only stays on for a fraction of a second (it dies right away). Usually I wait for 10-30 minutes, and then I try again, and it starts up normal. Nobody seems to know what's wrong with the car, it always starts fine for the mechanics.
I haven't found any consistency with the weather, time of day, or how much I've been driving it. Also, the time in between non-starts is not regular - it has happened 3 times in one week, and then I didn't have a problem for months. It is truly random. I highly doubt its a battery problem - I've listened to the radio waiting for my car to start! It is starting to get SO frustrating - I am afraid to turn off my car because I'm not sure it will start again!
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I have a 2005 Saturn Ion stalls when I make left hand turns! The engine light comes on and the car goes into limp mode! I stop the car and wait a minute or two and it starts right back up and after driving it for a while the engine light goes out! I took it to a shop and they replaced the throttle body and ignition coil on two different occasions and my car still does the same thing!
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So my car just started randomly dying everytime i came to a stop. Just shudders and off and then when i go to restart it cranks no problem but will not start. If i just wait for about 5 minutes it will start right up again but then die on the next few stops. A few hours later i go try again and i get it home no problem but still kept the rpms up when i wasnt moving. Filled up with 93 and put some gas treatment and it seems to be fine. What can it be? just bad gas or water in it? or could it be battery, alternator or clutch?
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When I slow down to come to a stop, my 2006 Pontiac Solstice lurches. Sometimes this is very scary as it is a hard lurch, sometimes it is just a slight lurch. The engine light is on. I have taken it in for this problem previously and the problem goes away but it has been acting up for the last few months.
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The throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
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I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) Car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.
Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)
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My ex drives our kid around Maui in a 1990 740 GLE (non turbo) and it's been stalling at the most inconvenient places and not starting for say, 20-30 minutes (then it seems to run fine, at least for another 15-20min. Our savant mechanic with an inherent drive to sleuth out problems is stumped as to why this intermittent stalling is going on. This seems to be happening when it is warmed up, first did it the after "acting funny" in 4th of July bumper to bumper traffic over in Lahaina, when it got to it's destination, it crapped out in the driveway.
Then, it stalled coming home the next day (fortunately right by beach park), a hot day, so I went out to get here a tow. Got rope on, it starts! Take rope off, realize I killed my battery in my Subie Outback while I was fiddling around with the 740, so she pulls it around to jump the Subaru, and it craps out again. So, we get someone else to jump Subie, I turn around to tow her and we go about a mile, tow rope snaps after crest of hill, but, 740 starts up and makes it back to Pa'ia (about 12 miles from that point).
Next day, mechanic looks at it, starts fine. No problem is reproduced, so hard to diagnose. Tonight, it stalled out again and started right back up a couple times during the day, then really stalled out turning onto the busy Hana Hwy from Baldwin Beach, thought I was going to tow her again, but 20 min later, it starts back up. So, for the second night in a row, I follow her home, but tonight it stalls out when making tight turn uphill to get to her neighborhood. So, I manage to tow her up and over to her place. (Accidentally took off front bumper when hook slipped, but I got it back on). And, of course, it starts right up.
Some background:
-fuel pump relay has been tested and is working.
-a couple weeks ago two of the injectors were replaced (or fixed, not sure) after we thought it was really going south (oil in plug cylinder, power loss).
-spark plugs replaced at same time injector issue was being assessed.
-fuel pump and filter underneath were replaced last year. (could it be other fuel pump inside tank?)
Every time I turn around this thing is stalling!
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I have a 99 jeep grand jerokee... every once in a while it will just stall....it starts back up right away...no problem....battery is good... could it be the fuel filter? or the cranckshaft positioning sensor? or am i way off?
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