Saturn - Ion :: 2004 - Coolant Light Goes On
May 22, 2012
My coolant light goes on, it started in winter in February and continues to yell @ me (checked the coolant and wires all is fine). I went to have it looked at, the mechanic says I need to get the Coolant level sensor replaced, but to do this he says it's part of the coolant reservoir, hence I need to replace both. Which will cost like $300 bucks, which I don't have?
Question: is this true? do you have to replace the reservoir to replace the sensor? I can't find an answer anywhere.
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Coolant level message on my 2004 Ion won't go away. I have pulled the overflow tank and cleaned and flushed it. Checked the sensor with my multimeter for continuity, checked fine. Checked and remade wiring connections to the sensor. I thought maybe the float material was the same as would be in an hydrometer so it would only float in the correct mixture/protection level of coolant. Flushed and filled the system with 50/50 mixture of Dexcool. That theory was incorrect. The only thing I've seen so far that makes sense is a "software issue" that was mentioned in another discussion I read.
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After the standard alarm of my 2004 Vue sounded the horn continuously, the only way I could shut it off was to pull the horn relay. I put the horn relay back, but now the horn doesn't work. How can I get the horn to work? The service vehicle light came on after this happened.
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My '95 Saturn had its starter, elec. cables, battery, the whole starting-system-shabang tested. But occasionally it still won't start...in the evening, after I get home and it sits for 2 hours. The mechanic says it could be the coolant sensor. Is this possible?
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We have a 97 Saturn SL2. The belt tensioner assembly cracked and after the guy replaced it, immediately upon driving, the low coolant light starts flashing.
Drove it this way a few times while keeping an eye on coolant level. Parked car for a few days, then notice a big puddle of green coolant under car. It has been sitting now for several weeks.
Could increased tension from the new tensioner pulley cause the water pump to die?
The car has never overheated, though. If water pump was toast wouldn't it overheat?
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My 95 Saturn SL1 has been a real trooper these years. This is the first hvac problem I've had.A couple weeks ago it felt like the ac was starting to go, and by last week it had gone. I figured it probably had a slow leak and just needed a recharge. So I bought a kit from the auto parts shop - for $30, it was worth a try!The pressure in the system reads full - even a tad high, without putting any gas in!I double checked everything. Compressor clutch engaged, and the gauge was attached properly.
Inside, I can hear the familiar 'foop' when I switch from "hot" to "cold," which I'm guessing is the air blend door, and the air is noticeably hotter on "hot" mode - so I assume the blend motor is ok. What might be going on here, or where a well-aimed kick might have an effect?
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My 2009 Vue developed a coolant leak into the oil at 130k km. I had to have replaced. GM has a technical note about this exact problem with the recommended fix: Engine Replacement. The coolant was leaking into the oil at the water pump.
The Statement from the dealership states that there was a crack in the block near the water pump. The dealership was good but a block should not break like this. Is this a design defect with the block, and if so is their a class action already started?
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Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
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2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
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The last week or so, the coolant level low light has been coming on in my 04 Touareg V6, and I've noticed that it is leaking underneath the car. I've been keeping a close eye on the level, and filling it back up until I could get it into the dealer. They can't get me in until the 24th, so when I was under it last night changing the oil I checked it out.
It is dripping from a round plastic piece on the firewall with a square "knob" on it. This "knob" has what looks like a cross indented into it. It was dripping slowly while the car was on, and continues for a few minutes after it's been turned off. I originally thought it was the a/c condensation dripping off, but it's definitely antifreeze.
I fear that it's the heater core and that it is leaking from the inside, but I could just be paranoid. It should still be under warranty (34,000 miles).
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My wifes 2008 prius check engine light just came on. Its the control valve sensor. My question is, does that have any serious impact on safety? I've heard mixed on what this valve does (overheating etc).
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I have a 2009 Prius and the check engine light came on last week. I decided to take it to a highly recommended auto repair shop instead of the dealer. The error cord was P1121 and they replaced some kind of coolant control valve. When I went to take the car home I noticed the check engine light was still on and they said there was another similar but different coolant valve that needed to be replaced. They replaced the other part and everything seemed fine.
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My car has had issues with the "low coolant" light coming on for over a year. No one could ever find a leak, the coolant level was always pretty good, and I never had a puddle.
Recently, my mechanic suspected it was the heater core. Since I earn early childhood teacher wages, I couldn't afford to have it fixed. As a temporary solution, he bypassed the heater core in order to buy me some time. Now, I have no heat or defrost. But also, the leak has gone out of control! I have to put coolant in daily, and I always have a puddle under my car when I am leaving work at the end of the day.
My car's newest trick is smoke, coming from under the hood, and the fresh smell of burning coolant. However, temperature is fine, at least that's what the gauge says.
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion with about 189,000 miles. Recently the car has been running very hot when AC is on and the car is idling or in traffic. When I stop for about 30 seconds ill hear something click on, the AC will start to blow warm air, the engine will heat up and the car has a tendency to jump forward. When I start driving again the AC will cool off but the engine takes a while to cool back down. When it jumps forward, the RPM's shoot up and it jumps forward about a foot. I recently had it inspected and looked at by a mechanic, but this was over the winter when there was no need to use the AC.
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Ive had my saturn for over a year now. It just hit 100,000 miles. Seems to be the perfect car, except for one major flaw. Once a week to multiple times a day, my car fails to start. For twenty mins to an hour. Ive done some research, looked in my manual, and have been to multiple shops. From what I know the problem is the "passlock" I turn my key and it barely turns over. I wait and wait, keep turning my key every so often, for a long period of time.. until my car finally!!! starts. Im late to work some days even when leaving half an hour before I truely need to leave. The shops have done many things to my car, each time saying it is fixed. Im starting to think it can never be fixed and I need to give up on my car before i lose my two jobs.
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