My 2004 Saturn Ion, 235,000 miles, 2.2 engine is idling erratic when I turn on AC. It sounds as though the compressor is turning on and off. The air is cold then blows warm then cold etc. Is it the compressor or could it be a relay or fuse. It also overheated last week but not sure if problems are connected. I am idling car right now with AC off to see if fan comes on.
View 3 RepliesNow I know I'm having problems when I go to start my car, and the check engine light starts flashing and my engine is idling really erratic. What could this be? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I went to start it today.... problems. I have had this problem before and it seemed to correct itself.
I started my car. It was kinda rough when I started it. My engine started trembling and check engine light started flashing. I turned my car off and back on and it went away. No check engine light...no trembling..nothing!! Well, at least til now. I went to start it up and the same thing happened...really rough idle and my check engine light started flashing.
I was recently told it could be a misfire, but I was also told by a family mechanic that it could just be a faulty plug or shorted wires. Also, recently when I have been driving, my car has been feeling a little sluggish right around the 2nd gear mark, and I have watched my voltage gauge on my dash jump around a lot, anywhere from 11v to 13v. Could this be a symptom? Or the effect of something else? I don't want to get ripped of for something as simple as changing some spark plugs or wires.
My 1997 Saturn SL has had an odd overheating problem for several years now. When idling the engine starts to overheat, but the fan does not kick in until/unless I turn on the AC.( I do a lot of idling, as I work from the car a good deal.) I've had the car serviced, even had the fan specifically checked in the shop, & had the AC components changed out last year (whole other issue, barely blows cool air). But the overheating abides.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1994 960. It has developed a glitch. It idles fine when cold, but as it warms up it starts idling erratically-bouncing between about 500-900 rpm. It hasn't displayed a code so I'm stumped.
View 2 RepliesI swapped my old 4.3 for one out of a 86 chevy blazer. the motor ran great in the blazer but after getting everything hooked up I get erratic idling and poor response from the car. throttle body is new as well, where to start?
View 3 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
So, I was just driving home from work in my 2005 Prius (~78k miles) when the engine started surging erratically and uncontrollably. I don't know if this is the cause, but I hit a bump right as I was hitting the gas and so I wasn't surprised when it revved up at first. But, then I backed off and it kept revving. Then I took my foot off the gas and it was still revving and accelerating so I had to start braking to keep going the same speed.
It kept erratically surging and then letting off as I basically kept braking at different levels to maintain speed or slow down when I could as we were coming to an intersection. The light turned red and I managed to get to a stop even though it was still revving, so I hit the P button and the engine calmed down. So, when traffic started again I slowly put it back in D and it surged again. We didn't move much before we had to stop again so I put it in P again. I noticed the battery icon was down to a few pink bars so I turned off the radio and air. Traffic started again and I put it in D and this time it seemed ok. I detected a faint smell that I think was probably from the brakes/tires being overheated, but it could've been something else maybe. It drove normally the rest of the way home.
It came on 2 months ago, took it to dealer, code said "erratic idle", it idled fine, smooth as it always has been, dealer turned of lite, said let him know if it comes on again.
View 2 RepliesI have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn L300 V-6 3.0L. The car always starts okay when it's cold, like overnight cold. After I've run it for at least 20 minutes to half an hour, then turn it off and leave it for about the same amount of time (i.e., 20 minutes to half an hour), it will sometimes, but not always, fail to turn over when I try to restart it. The battery is fine, there's plenty of juice, the starter cranks aggressively, but the engine won't fire up. My mechanic said the fuel pressure was low, about 20 lbs, when it should have been 50-70 lbs, so he replaced the fuel pump, but the problem is still there.
He also blew air through the fuel lines to test for obstructions, but there were none. Now he thinks it could be the on-board computer or a defective anti-theft device which is intermittently sending the wrong signal to the fuel pump. On one occasion when the car wouldn't turn over, he said there was 0 lb fuel pressure. Since the car starts maybe 90% of the time with no problem, it's difficult for my mechanic to work on it. He doesn't have time to drive it around town to warm it up, and I'm getting tired of going to his shop and taking the car out for a spin once or twice a day in the hope that, when I bring it back to him and we let it cool down, it won't start. What else to check?
I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
View 7 Replies1997 Ford Explorer 4.0L the engine just died while idling. The engine will not turn over at all. Battery and cables are good. Able to get engine to turn over with screw driver on starter relay but still won’t start. Checked spark when bypassing relay with screw driver and spark is Ok.
View 19 RepliesA week and a half ago, the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on and has stayed on pretty consistently since. Shortly thereafter, the Battery light came on sporadically, but over the last couple of days, it's started staying on. Today, the car stalled while I was idling briefly. I had put the car in neutral so as to "turn down" a rattling noise, then shifted back into drive when the car stalled out. All of the dash lights came on, and I was able to restart the car and make it home 20 some miles without further incident, but it's definitely unsettling.
View 1 RepliesI just replaced my rotors, and tie rod ends on both sides. Now I have a clunking noise when I turn left. I also have erratic steering, the car swerves when I take a slight left, and I have to turn further to the right to get it to swerve back straight. If I hit a bump, car swerves left. Is this an alignment issue? I haven't taken it to get aligned yet, everywhere around here is closed. Could it be the Axle?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn SL2 1.9 liter DOHC. I am getting a metallic rattling sound from under the car. The sound happens only at certain RPM idling speeds; what could this be?
View 11 RepliesWe have a 2004 Saturn Vue that has been in the shop FOUR times for a loss of power issue. The check engine light will come on and almost simultaneously the loss of power light will come on and the car will pretty much come to a stop. So far they have replaced the computer, gas pedal, wiring to the computer, cat converter...it is still doing it!
View 30 RepliesI have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
View 1 Replies5.4 sound like a diesel when idling?
View 14 RepliesWe have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
View 2 RepliesI just got a used Hyundai Santa Fe (2004). I was so excited until about 50 miles of driving it. Here is what happened:
I was idling at about 20 mph when all of a sudden the engine jumped (a little bit) - the RPM went down to 0 and the check engine light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and put it in park - then the car went back to normal like nothing happened, it didnt stall all the way. I was concerned and took it back to the dealership and they did a diagnostic test on it and it came back negative, nothing was wrong with it.
My boyfriend was driving up north with it and it happened to him, this time, it stalled. He said that the engine jumps a bit- but all of the lights go on on the dash. I remember it smelling pretty hot when I opened the hood before with it happened the first time, so I asked him to open the hood. He said it did smell hot. He checked the coolant and it was empty. It looks like there is fluid in it from the outside, but that was just the line that previous fluids had. He put coolant in (not in the actual radiator, but in the place where coolant goes) and it still stalled. I didn't want him to drive it anymore for fear of something worse happening, so there it sits.
Is this something that happens with most cars, or this kind of car? I am kicking myself for not purchasing the extended warranty, but I didn't have the extra cash to add over 1k to the price. Could it be just the coolant needing to go into the radiator? Do Santa Fe's typically shut down before they overheat? I was doing some research and it seems that cars stall because of either the fuel system or electrical system.
Just picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.
However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing.
I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.
When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.