Saturn - Ion :: 2003 - Starter Relay Clicks But No Power Going Through To Trigger Wire To Engage
Jan 5, 2014
I have 2003 Saturn Ion that will not start. I did test on the starter and battery and everything work fine. When I turn the key to start, the starter relay clicks alright but there is no power going through the starter trigger wire to engage the starter; I have checked the starter trigger wire, all the fuses, and all the relays, but there is no power in the trigger wire. Why there is no power in the starter trigger wire when the key is turned to start to engage the starter so that the car will start.
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. Drove it home and parked it. Next morning wouldn't turn over. When trying to start the starter relay clicks but no noise from starter. Battery light and wrench light are on. I thought maybe battery was low but when I hooked up charger gauge showed good battery. What do I do next? Also there is no "theft" light...at all not even when I first turn key on.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus, we bought it used. On occasion it loses power(electrical) and won't start I hear a relay clicking faintly but no attempt by the starter to engage. when this happens the am/fm radio will lose the presets and will actually come on by itself at a am mode and static. when this has happened I have touched various electrical components (battery posts fuses relays etc) and most times on the next try it will start. Sometimes you turn the key back on a couple of times and it starts immediately .
I have had this happen twice while driving down the road and not noticed any change except the radio comes on by itself and presets and clock needs to be reset. I have pulled all fuses and relays to check for any corrosion and plugged all connection etc in and out all looks ok. This might only happen once a month or if vehicle is left setting for a few days Battery is new and checked at 97% unit starts up immediately if problem is not there and it doesn't seem to matter what you touch or move it just starts when it wants to Ford dealer says it needs a new battery (doesn't comment when told it is new and battery and starter work fine when called on except for this glitch).
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Any pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring. Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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Kind of stumped on this electrical quandary. Father in law has an 05 limited. PO installed iron cross (I believe) hoop step bars. He wanted me to add puddle lights like i have on my truck. On my truck I tapped into the wires going to the oem lighted running boards. On his truck it looks like whoever removed those wires, I can not find them. So I thought, I would grab the front door lights as I believe they turn on when you unlock the doors along with the overhead lights. The lights, bulbs, socket and wiring are missing on both sides. Like someone took the time to pull the wires out of the harness or something. Nothing to be found. We pulled both door panels looking for them and nothing. So I would like to find a wire that i can grab power from that is triggered by the unlock button...
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My 2003 Ford F250 superduty diesel wouldn't start. It was a cool morning and I suspected a problem with the glow plugs. I checked the GPCM ( new in the last year) and it was fine, than I tested both right and left harnesses...they showed two out of range. After further inspection I noticed both my buss bars were completely rotted off with the wire and top of the glow plugs exposed.
Since I cranked the truck over so much, I removed the ground terminals from the recently replaced batteries and put a charger on overnight, I also plugged in the block heater since the glow plug system is suspect. I went out the next morning, re attached the batteries, and turned the key. The fuel pump and injectors cycled as usual, than I turned the key to start....nothing....no click...no sound.
I disconnected the starter trigger wire and touched it to the positive post.... a few sparks but no click or engagement. I jumped the solenoid...again a few sparks...but no engagement. I removed the starter (less than a year old, and not a lot of use) and had it bench tested, it tested fine. I re installed the starter, and cleaned all the terminals and connectors through the the system, still nothing.
I checked the cable from the battery to the large terminal...12 volts, I had my wife try to start the truck and checked where the trigger disconnects on the fender and at the solenoid....12 volts when the key is turned to the start position. I used a jumper cable to run power from the battery to the solenoid...nothing, I ran the jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter case...nothing. I checked all the fusible links and found a broken wire from chaffing, I repaired it ( but I think it was what was causing my battery light to come on for the last few months) even though the alternator, batteries and everything going else checked good.....nothing. I checked the starter relay...it checked out good, as well as the ignition fuse.
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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I was getting ready to run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck to power my bed lights. Then I read where some owners have jumped the trailer charge relay socket to provide constant 12v at the 7-pin trailer plug.
I never keep my trailer cord connected to the truck when camping so the chances of the trailer draining the battery are nil.I don't want powering the bed lights from other sources as I have decided I want 12v to bed light switch always available.
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So I picked up a 2002 passat 1.8T autotragic from a guy because a shop said it had a bad computer. After bringing it home and talking to some local volkswagen mechanics they said it couldn't be the computer because the car would still crank. I jumped the trigger wires and the car starts right up no problems and runs perfect for sitting for a year. My question is what could be the problem? I changed the ignition switch and replaced the 40amp fuse by the computer. I am trying to flip the car so I am hoping its not a big problem and have to part the car out.
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I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
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My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
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I just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
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After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0 liter crew cab. It's all stock minus the FICM and bullet proof I did a few years ago when I purchased the truck. truck runs amazing with 136K miles on her, but i rarely drive the truck and she's been sitting. SO, I went out to start her up because it's been in the low teens and I wanted to keep the battery up to par. When I had turned the ignition key on to start the truck (after I cycled the glow plugs), I could hear the starter spin but instead of turning the truck over, it made a grinding noise followed by a spin type sound which I assume is the drive gear of the starter not engaging. I can get her to start but it takes multiple attempts.
Once she's warmed up, it seems to stop grinding when i try and start it which makes me think it's more of a resistance issue, possibly a relay. BTW, where is the starter relay on our trucks? I am wondering if the cold has something to do with the proper power and amps to the starter via the relay causing the starter not getting enough power to the starter. Anyway, I'm hoping there is a way to diagnose this through my torque program by looking at amps but not sure which parameters to look at on torque android.....I'm hoping it's a relay problem instead of a starter problem. I really dont want to replace a starter with a bum shoulder.......in the cold to top it off
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With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
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I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
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Without key even in ignition, fuel pump relay clicks constantly every 8 seconds with the gauge lights illuminating during this 8 seconds. The only lights that function are the gauge lights. Upon turning on the headlight switch only the gauge lights illumin8. Absolutely no headlights, dome light or brake lights. No fuel pump sense/pulse. No radio, key on or in accessories.
Multi-function switch was not the issue. How would I troubleshoot this one?
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I have myself changed the oil and filter in my Accent 2013 for the 1st time; after the change everything looked fine, no alarm lights, oil level is OK, no leakages, etc.
However. when I turn off the car I hear beeps coming from the engine, I hear relay clicks and after some seconds the sounds disappear.
When I had the oil changed at an oil shop, this didn't happen. Again, I see no alarms on the driver panel.
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My starter clicks once when i turn the key, yet when i brought it in to have it tested it passed twice. I took one of the spark plugs out and pulled on the belt thinking maybe some antifreeze got in a cylinder and saw the piston moving up and down so i its not seized.
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The turn signal lights in my brother's 2000 passat are staying lit when he turns the signals on. They work sometimes, for a few clicks, but then stop working.
1. is it the turn signal relay. It sounds like its in the middle of the dash.
2. how do you get to that relay?
Have to remove the HVAC controls? if so, how the heck do you do it?
[URL] ....
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