Saturn - Engines - Keys :: 2000 SW Won't Turn Off Completely
Jan 29, 2014
I drive a 2000 Saturn S-series (SW) that has a lot of miles on it, and has been giving me consistent trouble lately--replaced the catalytic converter, transmission work, belts, coolant issues, you name it. That said, up until recently I would have referred to it as an extremely reliable car. The piles of money I've now put into it make me less likely to call it this. So, my question is twofold: a specific question and a general is-this-the-end question.
As of last night, my car has been having trouble shutting completely off. I am able to turn the key and take it out of the ignition, and the car shuts off--mostly. Something is still on (a fan, part of the engine?) and I have to turn the car on and off many times until it shuts off completely. Last night I had to drive it around the block before it would shut off. I took it to the mechanic today for a separate issue--hemorrhaging coolant--and asked them to look at the shutting off issue.
Of course, when they looked at it, my car suddenly shut off fine. They said that it probably has to do with the ignition switch, and that I'll need to take it to the dealer because my key is so old they can't recreate it from my old beaten up key from 14 years ago. (I'm not exactly sure what they have to recreate, or how an ignition switch works.) Is it time to chuck this car? Or is an ignition switch not a big deal?
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 that died while driving. The battery was tested ok! When you turn the key all the lights come on. Turn it to start and all the lights go out except the SES and security lights. I have tried a method of resetting the security system by turning the key on then briefly to start. Letting it set and repete about 3 times or so. But it does nothing for the present issue.
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I have a 2000 Saturn with about 140,000 miles on it. This morning after driving a short distance (maybe 2blocks) to the local gym my car wouldn't start when I came out about an hour later. When I put the key in and give it the first turn to the "run" (think that is what it's labeled) position the dash lights headlights, ac, radio, etc all turn on fine, however when I try to turn it to "start" nothing happens. No noise, no clicking, nothing.
This is the second time this has happened to me, first time was roughly a month ago pretty much the exact same situation drove a short distance this time the car was only off for maybe 10-15 minutes and wouldn't start. However, that time when I went back to my car about 30 minutes later it started just fine, that was not the case this time.
After that first time I brought my car into the local shop to see what the problem was, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. Can't recall everything he said he checked (battery, starter, alternator if I recall) and said everything was good and the conclusion he came to is that I must have left a light on or something. Which I didn't, as it was in the middle of the day and my dome light is always set to off anyways and the headlights weren't on and the doors were all properly closed and what not.
Also, I had the battery and spark plugs replaced about a year ago and aside from that everything in my car seems to be working fine...
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My '95 Saturn has a little bit of smoke coming out the sides of its hood. I've never cleaned the engine and was wondering if there were any good engine cleaners on the market? (I'm assuming it should clean hoses and whatever else - belts, I guess I'll leave them alone for now as I don't hear any noise indicating slippage.) The car is driveable but with summer coming up I don't want to be stranded with an engine on fire.
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Ticking sound from the engine compartment. Here are the clues:
Have observed this since at least probably 2009. Affects a 2000 Saturn LW1 with DOHC 4-cylinder engine.
It's a mechanical "ticking" sound that seems to come from the right side under the hood.
It only happens in cold weather.
It typically starts a couple of minutes after the car is first started up on a cold morning.
It typically goes away when the engine warms up (after several minutes).
It always repeats at the same rate, maybe about 7?8 ticks per second.
It is independent of engine RPM.
It is independent of vehicle speed
Sometimes (but not always) it stops when you lift your foot off the accelerator (it may tend to do this after the engine has warmed up a bit). When you depress the accelerator it resumes It doesn't seem to affect performance but I'd love to know what it is and whether I need to worry.
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I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
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I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
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I have a 2012 camry SE. I had it for about 10 months now. For some reason my car won't start (no clicking noise) and I couldn't remove my keys at all. My keys were stuck and car wont turn on at all. I was at a gas station and the workers couldn't figure out what was wrong. They removed the negative side on the battery so I could remove my keys and it worked. But when they reconnected my battery, I tried to start it again and same thing happened. Car won't start and key was stuck again. Lights were working so I ha my emergency lights on.
I'm not a car guy so I have no clue of what happened. The funny thing is when my car was stuck I had to get it pushed because I was blocking other cars from entering the gas station. It wasn't even on neutral and the workers could push my car easily? Also the steering wheel was really hard to turn. Anyways after about 30 min I went back in my car and tried to start it and it worked! So I'm confused as heck. What could of caused this?!
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I drive a 99 s/w 2 and this mourning when I arrived at work I got out of the vehicle and the bell that chimes when you leave the headlights on or the key in the ignition the warning chime would not turn off even though the keys were out of the ignition and the headlights were off, however it stops chiming when you shut the door.
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SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
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My Kia just started stalling when I turn on the heater or air....?
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I have had a lot of issues with this car the past year. Not sure where to even start.. it appears to be leaking directly under the oil reservoir, and also near the right tire on the passenger side. Not leaking on the other side at all. The fluid appears to be very dark. Brake fluid is fine, coolant level is fine, power steering seems to have gone down as well as oil fluid. The air system in the car does not work. The fluid just looks to be pretty dark, and sometimes a burning smell after running again. Is it just an oil leak?
Pontiac grand am 2000 v6
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A few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
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2000 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4l - The problem that I currently have is that the car will not idle smoothly, it bounces between 600 and 800 rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and thought I checked the hoses. Just got done changing the upper and lover manifold seals, during which I replaced or cleaned what ever was suggested by the place I purchased my parts through. I am at a loss, I have begun to notice that there are small fluctuations on the highway when I am using the cruise control and am on flat land.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
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When I turn on my headlights my engine goes completely off. Once in a while i have to twist the key twice to turn on or hold the gas separate from that it run greats its a 1987 740 4door sedan...
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Do the climate control can be turned off completely? I understand that "econ" shuts down the compressor, fans, etc... but can you make the whole thing go "dark"? If so, how can this be done?
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How do I turn my dash lights COMPLETELY off? I do a lot of night driving and have learned to live with the dimmer all the way down, though my personal preference is to have it just a little dimmer. My commute makes traffic unpredictable, so I often get to work early (better than too late!), so I like to nap a little in the car until time to drag myself in to the office. When my headlights are off and I'm parked, the dash lights are WAY bright. Is there a way to turn them off, and also have the headlights off too? I need the headlights off (and the silly parking lights that stay on till you set the parking brake). So, simply stated, is there a way to turn everything all the way off while the engine (and heater) stay running?
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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It has a 5.4 v8, and won't start. It started fine when I bought it and quit a few days later. It turns on with the key, but when the key is turned to start it doesn't turn over. (Doesn't click, goes completely silent)
I can jump the positive post on the starter and the solenoid attached to the starter and it turns over and starts right up. This leads me to believe the starter itself is okay.
I replaced the fender mounted starter solenoid. Did not fix the problem. I am thinking about replacing the starter itself as they are pretty cheap and come with the solenoid attached but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
Because it worked and quit so suddenly I feel like it is a component issue and not a wiring issue. But I could be completely wrong, and that is why I am here.
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