Saturn - Cylinder - Vue - Misfire :: 2005 - Steady CEL Code P0300
Jan 17, 2011
2005 4cyl. Vue with 54K... Steady CEL. Runs great. Absolutely no problem accelerating. Don?t hear or feel any misfiring. There is a slight rumbling sound when I first start to drive the car, but to me, the sound doesn't seem come from the engine, but rather underneath the car. It goes away when I continue to drive. Since winter began, I occasionally feel a very slight hesitation during idle?happened once or twice lately.
Again, I only feel justified in mentioning it simply because of the codes that were generated. None of my passengers have made a comment about the idle or the drive. My friend, however, made a remark that occasionally, there is a very very very slight hesitation at the downshift when braking. No crack in gas cap. Great fuel economy. No problems accelerating at all. Never hear or an actual misfire, which I take it, means a problem when accelerating, a jerking, or popping noise.
Took it to a dealer. Codes were 0300, 301, 302, 303, 304?302 generating most often. Dealer recommended new ignition module and plug replacement, but they said it wouldn?t be a guaranteed fix and that it may need EGR replacement (don?t hear knocking though) or be a burnt valve in the cylinder. No suction out tailpipe, no rotten egg smell (signs of burnt valve). What are the chances of burnt valve in a car with 54K anyway?
Also, my maintenance schedule claims that I don?t need new spark plugs until 100K. Is there anything else this could be such as a dirty injector system, fuel filter, fuel pump, or air filter? Again, overall, the car runs GREAT! Should I just wait and see if the misfire becomes more pronounced so when I take it to a mechanic, they won't be looking for a needle in a haystack?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
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So i got two codes.... P0300 and P0305. I am thinking its the coilpacks because i changed the spark plugs a few months ago. Cleared it last week and came back today. What else could it be? And is it ok to just change one coil pack or do i have to do all of them? The recall was done in 2007.
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General misfire when the engine light comes on. This error has been occurring almost daily, sometimes it pins it down to cylinder 3. My wife's nephew who is a mechanic says it could be the sensor, but I have only been getting around 30 mpg though the car seems to run alright. I did go ahead and get the plugs replaced, as I was told it could be a bad plug but the error light still comes on as before and the mileage appears no better. What could this be? I am retired on fixed income and dread the very idea of an expensive diagnostic & repair session with a dealer service. Their solution for about everything wrong has been to replace the gas tank (three times already in the life of the car). Last time that did not fix what was going on with the car..
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I experienced a misfire code for #4 cylinder on my 2006 Toyota Avalon approx 8,000 miles ago and replaced the three front bank coils with Beck/Arnley coils. I didn't realize they were made in china until they arrived. The car ran fine until today when I got another misfire code for the same cylinder. I still had the two old coils in the garage so I swapped out # 4 and I'm happy to report that solved the problem. My question is should I be concerned that the # 4 cylinder has gone thru two coils in 8,000 miles or chalk it up to cheap chinese crap replacement parts?
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'07 Avalon with 169k miles. I replaced all 3 back coils and 6 plugs back in December when I had various misfires, but the most common code was P0301 which is cylinder 1.
Car ran great until last week when I made a hard left and accelerated. CEL started flashing, read code and it's P0301. Every time I accelerate half throttle or more I can set the code off, but then shutting down car and restarting it drives fine, until I go half throttle. Car runs better when cold, and worse when I turn left and accelerate.
As long as I don't mash the gas I can drive for a half hour or so without the strumbling/hesitation. Surely the new coil hasn't failed so soon, I hate to pull the wipers, plenum,etc. and buy another coil just on a chance that might solve the issue. Car is only throwing a P0301 this time, no other codes like before. I've read a clogged cat or sticky exhaust valve could cause a cyl misfire.
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The check engine light keeps coming on and off on my 2001 Echo with the above code. The car runs fine and the check engine light randomly comes and goes. What would set off the check engine light, but not cause noticeable change in performance?
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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I've got the intermittent misfire codes on my '02 Camry, and after changing the spark plugs and the ignition coils the problem still persists.
At first there was no noticeable misfire, I took it to two different mechanics and neither said they could find anything wrong. A few weeks later the misfire became noticeable when I'm sitting at a stop light. I can feel an occasional rumble in the engine.
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I took my 2006 W12 to get its yearly smog check, and it will not run "air" monitors due to intermittent misfire. The code is P0300.
Any way clearing this up? (I could find no air leaks)....
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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I have a 2000 Suburban 4wd that has a p0300 code. The misfires are coming mainly from #2 and #7 cylinders. Misfires only occur at idle. over 1500 rpm the misfires disappear. I have put new A/C Iridium plugs in, new wires, and new coil packs on both cylinders but the problem is not any better. All 8 fuel injectors all go to 55 psi when activated and drop to 28 when released. All tests were done with my Snap-On Solus.
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Recently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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Ok I am at my wits end with this. I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5-speed with 80k miles. When the A/C is on it will occasionally misfire at steady, low (between 1-2k) RPMs and will have a fluctuating idle as well. Occasionally the fluctuating idle is bad enough that it stalls out. It only does this when the compressor is engaged. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and cannot find any sort of vacuum leak. Also, it throws a P0300 (Random/Multiple misfire) code. When the A/C is off it runs like a charm. Here is everything that I have done...
Replaced COPs
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned IAC valve
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump (unrelated to this, the old one just died)
Ran seafoam through the motor
New battery (again, unrelated)
and maybe some other stuff I am forgetting
Also, I have taken some readings:
Fuel pressure @ idle ~32psi
Vacuum @ idle ~17in Hg
Had alternator tested - OK
Pressure in A/C system checked out OK (though I did use one of those AZ cans with a gauge on it, not sure how reliable that is)
Also, the A/C works great. It's like an arctic wind in there.
I am at a total loss for what to do. I would suspect it's something with the motor that is simply exacerbated by the added load of the A/C but I suppose it could be the A/C compressor? Is it possible that it needs lube? Doesn't the freon lube the compressor? (The pressure indicates it's fully charged and the A/C blows cold AF) ...
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I have a p0300 code coming up on the comp. The motor runs fine until it gets wet. rain/carwash. I have tried to spray each coil with water and could not get it to misfire. Then I brought out the water hose and sprayed it top of the motor this found the misfire. This thing has 8 coils and I really don't want to replace them all. My Question is there some thing else that could be causing the misfires.
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I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent GLS. I just got it from a used car dealership (local) and it runs perfectly. It had a misfire code when i first got it, for all cylinders plus the p0300. It went away when i started the engine again, and didnt come back til a month later (Now). now it wont go away.
I went to advance auto and had them use their OBD2 reader for a trouble code and i got p0300, p0301, p0303, p0304. No other codes present.
I am not feeling anything bad, and from what I am told, a misfire feels like a hard shift. This is of course after getting the plugs and wires changes as well as an oil change. Standard preventative maintenance.
The mechanic used OEM parts got from local parts shop. i think the OEM plugs are the copper ones. I would have preferred iridium as they arent that much more expensive but I don't want to pay for another plug change.
The only symptoms I can think of, is that according to google, I should get around 380 miles to a full tank (11.9 capacity, 32 mpg city). I am only getting 280 from full tank to gas light.
I have also gone through a lot of oil. I checked the dipstick and it was below the low line, so i bought a quart of high mileage oil (same exact brand and type of oil that i gave to the mechanic to use) and it went to just above the full line. This was at around 1500 miles after oil change.
After visiting multiple sites about misfires, i found a few things that caught my attention. One is a site called auto service professional, which talks about the OCV for the MC accent. A lot of sites also recommend gaping the plugs at .035.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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OK - so is my engine computer toast? The other day on the highway on the way home from work, my check engine light started to flash, and the car on cruise decelerated from 80MPH (ok I was speeding) to 70, and flooring it didn't make is speed up, and that's when i noticed it was shaking a little, so i pull off the highway and it's as if a spark plug was pulled.
So I made it to a parts store to have the code read, then started it back up, all was well. As if nothing ever happened. So I dismissed it as a pocket of water in the fuel or some other oddity.
2 days ago it happened again on the highway. So I pulled into the shoulder, shut off the car, and started it again. Runs fine. Engine computer?
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