We got the clutch replaced on our 1996 Saturn several weeks ago and ever since we get grinding when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The mechanic said the synch ring was shot and it wasn't their fault...this problem did not exist before the replacement. Whether this sounds plausible and what we can do to rectify i
View 18 RepliesI have a Subaru Baja 2003 with only 48,000 miles. It is a manual transmission.
My question has to do with the clutch (I think). If I am driving with the windows down and have something beside me that reflects noise ( a big hill, a wall, etc.) when I shift from first into second or second into third I sometimes here a "Creek" sort of grinding noise. I do not have to be moving the shift hence why I assuming it is the clutch. The noise is not bad, as I said I can only hear it occasionally and when I am next to something that reflects sound.
My questions are: Is it the clutch? Is it something I should have fixed or should I wait until it gets worse? I am not sure if fixing a clutch is expensive period or if there are some interim steps to a repair that prolongs the clutch and saves money.
This car makes this grinding sound whenever you first start the car in the morning on a cold day and take a left turn. After 5 minutes it won't do it anymore. I can't tell if it's coming from the transmission but that's what one mechanic said. He said it was the transmission but he couldn't target where. His first diagnoses was the struts but that proved incorrect so I'm taking what he says with a grain of salt.
VIDEO WITH SOUND : [URL]......
This car has the notorious GM lawsuit CVT transmission..
I have a 2012 L100 Saturn with just over 189K miles (yes, it's been an awesome car). In October 2012 I both sets of breaks replaced plus rotors. About 2 months after the service, I started hearing a knocking and grinding sound coming from the bottom of the car, about 80% of the time when I apply the breaks. The car does not make the sound if idle or while accelerating. The knocking seems to be loud at times and less present other times. The grinding sounds like a large wire cable is being pulled right underneath the car.
I took it back to the break place and they replaced the Master Cylinder under the warranty. The sound went away for about a month and then came back with about the same frequency. Took it back to the same place and this time they replaced the Wheel cylinder. Sound again went away, but this time came back 2 days later. I'm puzzled because for some reason the sound seems to go away and come back when the car is serviced. It;s also not consistent, but it's there. Not sure what it could be related to if not the break job. I'm bracing myself for some really bad news as this car has been a life saver since I bought it.
I have a 1996 Saturn SW2. When I turn hard left at a bit of speed (like about 20 mph), the left read end of my car makes a BOING sound... what could be causing this??
View 2 Replies2003 Saturn Vue V. 61,000 miles. Drives ,steers and turns normally except when you do a very tight 360 circle. Tremendous grinding sound and shuddering coming from the rear of the vehicle. Return to driving a straight line and everything returns to normal. What is the issue and what would it cost to repair?
View 1 RepliesI have a manual transmission and am having difficulties with my stick shifter. I had my car in neutral with my foot on the brake, and when I tried to shift into first gear I was unable to get it into gear. I wasn't able to get it in any other gear as well. Once the car was turned off though, I had no problems getting into gear. But when I turned the car on again, I wouldn't allow me to get anywhere but neutral. After about 10 minutes being off and not moving, the car shifted like normal again and I was able to drive it without a problem.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1996 BMW 328i manual. It has 175k miles. I purchased the car about a year ago. Several weeks ago, I began hearing a screeching noise when shifting when the car is cold. The screeching happens when you let the clutch out when going into gear. It happens much more frequently when very little throttle is used. If you shift it harder, it is less likely to make the noise. If it starts making the noise, you have to shift several times for it to go away. It'll still make the noise while in gear at that point. When the car is driven for about 10 minutes, it never makes the noise afterward, until the car cools down completely overnight. The clutch does not appear to be slipping at all, and once a gear is engaged, it does not have any issues staying in gear. What is my car's issue?
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger 20012.5L
Manual 4 Cylinder4x2
Drivetrain~150K Miles
The problem with the vehicle is that it won't shift into gear easily and smoothly. It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday (2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25). I was driving around 35 MPH, slowed down to a stop at an intersection, and when I put it back into 1st Gear to begin driving, I had extreme difficulty shifting the gear.
I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting (getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood). Following this, I tested it while parked the next day. Same issue. Then I tried double-clutching, which seemed to work out, but I only did it parked, since I didn't want to strand myself on a road (I'll take that risk when I go to a mechanic, though).
I've read this [URL] ...., I'm pretty sure it's the clutch (master/slave cylinder) and I'm also aware that it could be the transmission fluid requiring a change. I haven't changed the transmission fluid at the 60K & 120K interval per Ford's suggested maintenance schedule (I got it around 50K-60K from a dealership, so I'm not sure if they may have done it preemptively).
A couple other details. For the past year or so, I've been driving 100 Highway miles for 4-5 days a week, for work (50 to work, 50 back home).
Are my assumptions right, or is it possible that my whole Transmission is getting ready to go? Are there any other details I should provide?
Still chugging along!!
So, I haven't been the kindest car owner to my poor little hatchback. I do my best to get regular oil changes, but other than replacing the brakes last year, I have not kept up with most of the manufacturer's suggested regularly scheduled maintenance. The car has about 130,000 miles. Manual Transmission. My clutch feels a little loose, and I have been noticing a slight grinding sound when shifting (only from neutral to first gear).
I am trying to figure out why my car makes a certain sound and movement when I shift between first and second gear. I don't think I am making the car lug or stall out because the RPMs never fall too low, but there is a clear "ka-chunk-ka-chunk" noise with a corresponding forward-backward lurch. I am pretty sure the car is fine, and it's all my bad technique because my girlfriend does not get that "effect" as much as I do (really, not at all, and it's a bit emasculating that shes such a better driver than me!). This does not happen when shifting into first from a stop, but then again, I'm not the best at that either..
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic with 120k.
I started having a strange clicking sound when pushing down the clutch pedal. I have 43,000 miles on it and I have driven the clutch well(I really don't believe I already worn it up). It goes away and then it comes back. There is no problem on shifting from gear to gear, it works just fine. It is only when I push the pedal that it starts clicking like it pushing against something. The car dealership was so useless, they said I need a new clutch and that warranty does not cover it because I may have been using the clutch badly. Also do you think that they have the right to tell me it is my fault even though I have the extended warranty for 100, 000 miles.
View 6 RepliesHow do you clear the engine codes on a 1996 Saturn SL-2? I thought disconnecting the battery for more than ten seconds did this or do I need a special tool inserted into the diagnostic port under the dash?
View 8 RepliesMy sis was driving her 96 saturn SL and she was at a red light, then the car just stopped on her and it wouldn't start back up. I had came to push the car to the side of the road to see what the problem was. When I tried to start it, I could hear 1 click. All the lights came on, on the dash but it wouldn't start. I tried to give it a jump but that didnt work. I checked the oil and the oil was really low. There was no oil showing up on the dipstick. So I put in about 4 quarts of oil.
The car still wouldn't start. So I had it towed. The mechanic said that my sis would need another engine for her car. Would really low oil cause someone to need another engine for a car. My sis had just got a oil change about 2 weeks before this happened. I use to drive her car about 5 years ago and it use to burn a quart between oil changes but what would cause the engine to loose so much oil in about 2 weeks. I don't know if there was a oil leak and the oil light did come on the night before her car broke down. I had a starter put in about 4 years ago.
My car stopped starting reliably last winter. Since my driveway is on a hill and I have a clutch, I'd roll back and pop the clutch to start it (or just make the kids push - it builds character, right?). I finally broke down and put a new battery in it about a month ago. It still occasionally won't start. It seems worse if the weather is chilly. When it fails to start, the engine will turn over a few times, slower and slower each time, and then die. If I turn the key again right away, nothing - just the "click." If I wait about 2 minutes, it roars to life like nothing ever happened. Doesn't seem like an alternator problem. It's green.
View 1 RepliesI have a 96 saturn sl2. It was running ok, but recently it started to idle rough and it revs up when i change gears and then when i release the clutch it drops down and remains about 1200 rpm. Pretty much while I press on the brakes to stop, and press the clutch to get on neutral,the rpm shoots up and slowly goes back down.
Also when I start the car it feels like its revving, but my foot is on the brake and the car is on neutral.Also no matter how much I've driven it, I can go into first and 2nd gear w/out having to press the accelerator and it will start to move. the rpm will remain @ about 1000 to 1200. The check engine light is not on and the car seems to be using up more gas.
I'm considering changing the plugs and wires, gas filter to see if it s. I noticed oil leaking a little around the valve cover, so I may change that too.
My daughter has a 1996 Saturn SL with something over 100K miles on it. It runs generally well, although using a quart of oil every thousand miles or so. It passes the smog check required for her registration. It's had new spark plugs within the recommended period.
Recently she went on a road trip, and hit stop-and-go traffic for a couple of hours in one large city; it being January in a warm climate, the weather that day was presumably neither very hot nor cold. The Check Engine light came on. Fortunately she had the time to take it to a mechanic recommended by a friend local to the area, who pronounced the engine OK. She proceeded without incident for the rest of her thousand mile trip.
Sounds to me like the emissions crossed some threshold beyond "marginal" during the lengthy idling and running at low speed. Question: if we wanted to avoid such a condition, what kind of repair would be recommended.
2002 Saturn SL. My car is making "grinding" noises with each revolution of the tires. I brought it to a garage and they replaced the brake pads but the sound didn't go away. They told me it's okay, but I doubt it. On top of that, when I turn the wheel all the way there is a sound as if the front tires were touching some part of the car's body (but looking it myself, doesn't seem to be the case), and when the car moves I feel as if the car where stepping on something every time the front wheels complete one revolution.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 1997 Saturn SL2 5 speed it runs great but when shifting gears the RPM stays high while changing the gears. The man who sold it to us said it's done this ever since he's had it (2yrs) and it also burns oil in between the oil changes. I've been told so much I'm torn what to try and do to fix's the RPM to not stay so high while changing the gears.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn SL2 (automatic). A few days ago it abruptly started thumping pretty heavily when shifting gears, especially going into reverse and 4th (or possibly 5th) gear. A couple mechanics told me the transmission is going, and that it would need to be replaced (but it would cost more than the car is worth. One said that we could try replacing the computer that controls the transmission, but it would cost ~$300, and might not do any good. Another said to try Lucas Transmission Fix. I've seen mixed reviews of it online, so I'm wary. Is it a good product, or does it just briefly mask the problem? Also, I looked under the hood, and cannot tell where I would even put it.
View 12 RepliesBasically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?