Saturn - Aura :: Transmission Jump Back In Gear After Coasting At Low Speeds In Traffic
Jan 30, 2008
Has experienced transmission seem to jump back in gear after coasting at low speeds in traffic. When I push on the pedal after coasting it jumps back in gear and is very frustrating. I have had it checked out at dealer and they told me they re-programmed the Transmission which scared me. But that didn't fix the problem. Will be taking it in one more time before I decide what to do.
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I have a 1999 Saturn SL1 with a transmission issue. After driving in stop an go traffic and the trans warms up, it doesn't want to change gears from second to third. I can remedy this if i put the car in neutral, turn it off and back on will continue to run for a bit longer. The longer I'm in stop and go traffic, the more frequent I have to do this. On the highway this is a different story and I can stay in the last gear and drive forever! Also after being in traffic for so long, if I put the car into reverse, I have to lightly feather the gas until it slowly goes into gear.
The last issue which I think might be related is that the idle will sometimes stay extremely high if I put my car into neutral at red lights, which I do often to avoid have to turn the car off and on again to reset the transmission.
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My Saturn Aura XR shakes when i get up to about 60 - 65 mph. even worse when i go faster. any suggestions on what to do. i am going to get the alingment checked. but i think it is something else.
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I just bought this car and if I am on a incline and take my foot off the gas it rolls backward as if it a Manual transmission and it is not. I am being told this is normal because of low rpms.
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All the sudden last night I looked outside and saw several lights on my car turning on for no reason. My head and tail lights, my interior lights. I tried turning them off with the key in and out but that did not stop them from going off. they stayed on until the battery drained. Another on going problem is neither of the remotes with new battery's will work rarely. To unlock truck, or doors and when they do work not all the doors will lock or unlock with the remotes when they occasionally work.
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I have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
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I took my 2007 Saturn Aura for a scheduled oil change. They did the change and than called me into the shop to show me an oil leak. I was told that the oil pan gasket is leaking oil onto the exhaust and I could have a fire if I didn't get it replaced. The thing is that my car has been parked in the same place on my driveway every day for 5 years and has never dripped a drop of oil on the concrete. The car has only 30,000 miles and has been well maintained. How likely is it that there is a real problem with the oil pan gasket?
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Having problems with their radio buttons sometimes working, sometimes not? I'm wondering if I need to "pop off" the buttons and clean contacts or if I'm going to have to replace the radio. This is in a 2008 Saturn Aura, but I'm sure this radio is in other GM cars.
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When I went to go shopping this afternoon, I discovered my car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even crank, which was strange since it seemed to be running fine just two days ago. At this point I assume either the battery is bad or something else is. It's a bit hard for me to tell since the engine wouldn't even try to turn over.
Initial Observations: When I first tried to turn the the car on it wouldn't even turn over, in fact, all I could hear was the a fairly loud buzzing from behind the dash board. On further attempts I noticed that the info display (or whatever it's called) wasn't displaying the tire pressure readings. I did later notice some "reluctance" from the automatic door mechanism, and earlier this week I observed my car was a bit more reluctant than usual to start, but I assumed it was just the cold weather. After the initial attempt to get my car started, I tried jumping it, but no luck. It still wouldn't start or even turn over. If it's the battery, said battery must have a dead cell, however, wouldn't the engine still try to "turn"?
Later observations: I tried again this evening after it had gotten dark, since it would let me observe the headlights and such. Same behavior as before. I couldn't really tell if lights had dimmed. HOWEVER, when I tried yet again a little later I accidentally set off the alarm. Now I observed the lights were dim and the horn weak.
Additionally, when I turned the alarm off I heard that buzz behind the dash again. Most of what I've seen makes me lean toward the battery, but this noise bothers me and makes me wonder whether there may be some kind of electrical fault.
Other information: My car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, that I got used in Jan of 2010. I assume the battery is at least that old, since I haven't gotten it replaced while I've owned it.
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This afternoon, I was trying to get a sticker off of my wife's rear window (2009 Saturn). I put some goo goneon a paper towel and put it over the sticker and went inside. The car was in the garage, and I closed the doorand went into the house.
About an hour later, I went to check on the progress. What I found was the entire rear window was shattered. Could it have possibly gotten too hot in such a short time frame to cause that? I will add that about a monthago, the car was in an accident and hit just behind the passenger side rear tire (it pulled the whole rear bumperoff.
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I have a 2008 Saturn Aura. Last spring I had an incident where I was driving on a highway (60mph or >) and the car started to decelerate and the gas pedal didn't respond. I pulled off the road, and the car wouldn't start, but the radio worked. By the time AAA came, the car started and I didn't have another problem for 10 months. I did take it to the dealer after the first episode, and they couldn't find anything. Recently I had 2 similar episodes on the same day, one hour apart. I was again driving on a highway. After 5-10 mins, the car was able to be started again. I feel like it's a waste of money to take the car in to the dealer again, since they didn't find anything the first time. What might cause this to happen?
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I recently had my check engine light come on (again) and it's registering a P1175 error (again). This is apparently indicates a problem with the "fuel trim cylinder balance" in bank 2. And according to what I've read can be caused by a number of things, such as a faulty oxygen sensor, ignition problem, fuel injection problem, or some other condition.
I say again, because I had it come on about two months ago with the same error and when I took it in they flushed the fuel injectors, which was apparently recommended by bulletin 03-06-04-030H.
Unfortunately the light has come on again, and stayed on. This happened after I stopped to get gas on my 6 hour drive from visiting family in Michigan. Another interesting data point is that this code has been in the warning state in my engine for over a year from what I can tell. I've only used my OBD2 reader a couple of times. First was 9/2011, and no problem was detected. Six months later in March 2012, I checked it again and P1175 was a "pending code". I hadn't used the reader until this problem. But now, over a year later, the issue has apparently moved from a pending problem to a more serious one.
What this all boils down to, is that I'm asking opinions as to what the problem may actually be. I'm curious at to what could have been so long in developing. I intend to take the car in to get looked at shortly, but in the mean time I figured I'd ask around.
For reference, my car is a 2008 Saturn Aura XE, with about 71K in mileage (over 13k since I got that reading in 2012).
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I have a 2009 Saturn aura and what's goin on is when I apply my brakes the car hesitates a sec then slightly jerks before moving on. It doesn't do it any other time and it will happen no matter what gear or speed I am in/going. Only when the brakes are applied......?? I just don't get it. It smooth as ever just as long as I don't touch the bake
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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In the last month or so, my Phaeton started to 'kick - jump' when it shifts between 2nd and 3rd gears. It mostly happens during downshifting below 10mph, close to stopping (the car is hot/cold; sport/regular mode - no difference) It sometimes does it during up-shifting. What may have been causing it?
I took the car for service last week, after talking VW techs service manager suggested to replace the 'Mechatronics (?)' in the transmission and have already ordered the part. I am wondering if this is a major work, and I am a bit worried if they can put my car together the way it is.
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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The car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
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I hear a consistent tick tick tick when driving coming from what sounds like the passenger side wheel . It's is consistent with the rate of speed I'm traveling so if I'm going slow the tick is slow and if I speed up the tick speeds up. If I stop the tick stops.
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I have a 2008 ISF at 41k miles. In stop and go traffic, or starting from a stop and driving causally ( not WOT or even medium throttle) the car will rev up before going into 2nd. It is like the feeling of rolling over a speed bump.
Also in normal or sport mode in D ( not M ) if I WOT , you can feel it jerk before taking off. I don't know if this is normal or not...
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1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination.
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
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i have a 2003 saturn vue 2.2 liter engine that suddenly blew all the transmission fluid out the back. it looks like it is on the top of the transmission around some bolts up top on the drivers side, not on the bottom. could this be a seal or has the transmission blown?
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